it could be from anywhere - you really need to get under and have a look. There are not a lot of gaskets in the origional (at least not in my 41D prefix ) - as RF sealant was used though you can buy them now. So it may be dripping from a join with sump or one of the bolts on the sump plate, but more likely its the seal to the gearbox tailshaft or the seal to the forward propshaft.
All these can be repaired in-situ but you will need to remove the crossmember for easy access.
However, if its coming from the mating surface with the auto gear box then the transfer box will have to be removed to clean the surface, reseal and refit. I've not had to do this myself, but the Haynes manual (crap on transfer box issues) has things to note in this eventuality:
Select `P' in the main transmission before attempting to mate them back together and select Low range and engage diff-lock (if fitted).
Hope this helps.
All these can be repaired in-situ but you will need to remove the crossmember for easy access.
However, if its coming from the mating surface with the auto gear box then the transfer box will have to be removed to clean the surface, reseal and refit. I've not had to do this myself, but the Haynes manual (crap on transfer box issues) has things to note in this eventuality:
Select `P' in the main transmission before attempting to mate them back together and select Low range and engage diff-lock (if fitted).
Hope this helps.
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
apart from seals ,they can be prone to leak from intermediate gear shaft which runs through from front to back rear has 30 mm spanner size nut on back
50 pence
New Member
Mine was leaking from the main transfer box input seal, aswell as the intermediate shaft and a stripped thread on the rear input gear plate.
I took the box out and did them all at once.
Took about an hour and ahalf to get the box out.
I used a trolley jack to put it back in.
The photos show how the intermediate shaft can be pushed/pulled enough to put the new "O" rings in.
Also someone had tried to silicone the two boxes together to try and stop any future leaks. ( not recommended ).
Del.
I took the box out and did them all at once.
Took about an hour and ahalf to get the box out.
I used a trolley jack to put it back in.
The photos show how the intermediate shaft can be pushed/pulled enough to put the new "O" rings in.
Also someone had tried to silicone the two boxes together to try and stop any future leaks. ( not recommended ).
Del.
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thebiglad
Well-Known Member
Hi Del, this is not a job I've done yet so I have a couple of questions, if you don't mind?
1. Did you replace the output seal on the main box?
2. Re the intermediate shaft, your pictures show in and out movement, but how did you get it out - is there a thread in the end, so you can screw a bolt in to pull it out?
I would be most grateful for any advice you can give as I would like to have a dry underneath to my Disco - yeah some hope I know !!!!!
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
unless gear box seal is leaking leave it alone as with collar in place can be tricky to get out and in without damaging collar or fitting seal square, intermediate shaft will tap out or enough to change oring good idea to put some silicone around too box side of oring ,on td5 the 30mm spanner size nut can be locked up tight ,but 300 tdi and earlier cant be done quite so easily as the brgs have collapsable spacer between, while td5 has solid selectable spacer, put vaseline or such on inside of seal if tapping inti place to keep garter seal in place, never seal between boxes as are designed if there is a leak for it to run out between them there is a little channel on gearbox casing for this and not transfer between them
50 pence
New Member
Dave, as jamesmartin says, there is enough movement on the intermediate shaft to push it out far enough to put a new o ring on the shaft at the front end and, carefully pick out the old o ring from the casing that seals the rear of the intemediate shaft.
I am sure that the intermediate gears have a " rolling torque " that is goverened by some sort of crush collar on the intermediate shaft. I found it was not necessary to worry about this as long as I put the " spiked nut " on the end of the shaft back to the same positon.
I left the main gearbox seal alone, as it was only EP90 that was leaking out.
I found a big leak from a stripped thread from one of the round plate that holds the rear main shaft bearing. I " helicoiled " it, and it was fine. ( many of the these bolt holes go right through the transfer case, so need thread sealing when refitting ).
Hope this helps.
Del.
I am sure that the intermediate gears have a " rolling torque " that is goverened by some sort of crush collar on the intermediate shaft. I found it was not necessary to worry about this as long as I put the " spiked nut " on the end of the shaft back to the same positon.
I left the main gearbox seal alone, as it was only EP90 that was leaking out.
I found a big leak from a stripped thread from one of the round plate that holds the rear main shaft bearing. I " helicoiled " it, and it was fine. ( many of the these bolt holes go right through the transfer case, so need thread sealing when refitting ).
Hope this helps.
Del.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
td5 intermediate shaft like later wheel brgs has spacer betwwen brgs so just tighten as hard as you can,300 tdi had collapsable spacer and you needed to feel gear with sump plate off to set
