Hi, I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to change the front output bearing on the transfer box (TD5 manual) with the box left in situ? Looking at it I thought it might be possible using a slide hammer or a made up puller to to pull the whole shaft with the bearing once the seal and circlip have been removed. I know it's a long shot but I'm sure someone must have tried it.
Any advice gratefully received.
 
Hi, I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to change the front output bearing on the transfer box (TD5 manual) with the box left in situ? Looking at it I thought it might be possible using a slide hammer or a made up puller to to pull the whole shaft with the bearing once the seal and circlip have been removed. I know it's a long shot but I'm sure someone must have tried it.
Any advice gratefully received.
Have a look at https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/transfer-box-front-output-bearing-and-oil-seal-renewal.81771/ and https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/25053-transfer-box-front-output-bearing/

Why do you need to change yours? What are the symptoms?

Cheers and good luck.
 
Have a look at https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/transfer-box-front-output-bearing-and-oil-seal-renewal.81771/ and https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/25053-
ransfer-box-front-output-bearing/


In the last couple of days our Disco has developed a vibration which feels as if it's coming through the steering. I've checked the usual culprits and working my way around found a significant amount of play in the front output shaft bearing. Oddly this seems to coincide with me changing the diff and transfer box oil. The transfer box oil level was significantly low and I wondered whether refilling to the correct level has somehow altered the dynamics of the transfer box and, I was going to change the output shaft seals due to leaks. I would say, although the output shaft isn't hanging off there is possibly a millimetre or do of movement while I can feel no movement in the rear output with the handbrake released. I will be fitting new UJs in the Carden joint as there's perceptible movement/play in the forward most UJ. The wear in the Carden joint is far less than in the shaft bearing though.
Thanks for the links. I'll check them out now.

Why do you need to change yours? What are the symptoms?

Cheers and good luck.
 
Excellent, that's exactly what I needed to know. I'll order the bearing tomorrow. You've made my day. I've replaced the clutch on the deck so wanted to avoid pulling the transfer box at all costs as it's really heavy.
Thanks very much again.
 
Excellent, that's exactly what I needed to know. I'll order the bearing tomorrow. You've made my day. I've replaced the clutch on the deck so wanted to avoid pulling the transfer box at all costs as it's really heavy.
Thanks very much again.
Good luck with it, it is certainly worth giving a go.

I am waiting for a new front prop as the cardan joint is looking a bit iffy and there is a bit of vibration at over 60 mph. It depends who you talk to what the opinion is of how much play is normal for that bearing.
 
Good luck with it, it is certainly worth giving a go.

I am waiting for a new front prop as the cardan joint is looking a bit iffy and there is a bit of vibration at over 60 mph. It depends who you talk to what the opinion is of how much play is normal for that bearing.
Ours has a very small amount of play in the front most UJ of the Carden joint but the slop in the output shaft is much worse. We're getting a vibration under hard acceleration and just over 50mph. The vibration is most noticeable through the steering wheel. It is strange though that it appeared straight after changing the transfer box oil. I wonder if the higher oil level is being picked between the gears and causing the output shaft to boggle around under load. It sounds odd but it's the only explanation I can feasibly come up with. The vibration comes on like it's caused by some sort of harmonics going on in the box. I will post a conclusion once I've fitted the new bearing and seal. I'm going to replace the UJs in the Carden joint as well but I think I'll do them after the bearing change to see if that fixes the issue. You don't need to change the whole drive shaft. There are rebuild kits. I can do a UJ in 20 minutes tops using a vice and a couple of appropriately sized sockets. It's quite an easy job.
 
Ours has a very small amount of play in the front most UJ of the Carden joint but the slop in the output shaft is much worse. We're getting a vibration under hard acceleration and just over 50mph. The vibration is most noticeable through the steering wheel. It is strange though that it appeared straight after changing the transfer box oil. I wonder if the higher oil level is being picked between the gears and causing the output shaft to boggle around under load. It sounds odd but it's the only explanation I can feasibly come up with. The vibration comes on like it's caused by some sort of harmonics going on in the box. I will post a conclusion once I've fitted the new bearing and seal. I'm going to replace the UJs in the Carden joint as well but I think I'll do them after the bearing change to see if that fixes the issue. You don't need to change the whole drive shaft. There are rebuild kits. I can do a UJ in 20 minutes tops using a vice and a couple of appropriately sized sockets. It's quite an easy job.
Ours is not that bad, but I got worried about tales of the cardan joint letting go with little warning.

I didn't feel confident enough to rebuild the joints because we are taking it to France shortly. I ordered an uprated prop (with grease points!) from Grove Engineering, they seem to have a good reputation and it was a good price for my piece of mind! It's not arrived yet though......... Next time, I'll rebuild the UJs.
 
Ours is not that bad, but I got worried about tales of the cardan joint letting go with little warning.

I didn't feel confident enough to rebuild the joints because we are taking it to France shortly. I ordered an uprated prop (with grease points!) from Grove Engineering, they seem to have a good reputation and it was a good price for my piece of mind! It's not arrived yet though......... Next time, I'll rebuild the UJs.
Yes, if you're going over to the continent peace of mind is worth it. I hadn't heard about the issue of Carden joints failing without warning. Sounds worrying. I'm going to rebuild ours with greasable joint too. I don't know where you're based but we have a 35 tonne hydraulic press which you're welcome to use if you're local enough. We're in North Shropshire.
 
Yes, if you're going over to the continent peace of mind is worth it. I hadn't heard about the issue of Carden joints failing without warning. Sounds worrying. I'm going to rebuild ours with greasable joint too. I don't know where you're based but we have a 35 tonne hydraulic press which you're welcome to use if you're local enough. We're in North Shropshire.
Thank you for that kind offer, but we are on the south coast of Hampshire at present, but are looking to relocate to Shropshire if we can find somewhere suitable!
 
I hate leaving threads unfinished so, after deciding to just drive the car and wait for the culprit to reveal themselves it would appear that we have a winner.
After all this I found the bottom centre linkage bush on the watts linkage has failed. I'm still working my way through wobbly bearings and weeping oil seals on diffs and transfer case output shafts but it would appear this bush might be the cause of the clunking and vibration. I'm going to change the bushes this week as soon as I can get a set. Has anyone done the centre three bearings/bushes? I have a 35 tonne press so hopefully I can get away with not having to shell out for the whole thing.
I'll post again to round out my thread and let anyone who's interested know if the cure is successful.
 
To round this thread off the cause of the vibration was a failed UK bearing in the front prop shaft double Cardon Joint. I think it had possibly started to freeze due to water ingress and showed itself a couple of days ago when I checked it for the umpteenth time.
I ordered a repair kit and mysteriously it's about a millimetre too wide and I can't get the second circlip in. I'll have to take it up with the supplier.
But this belatedly rounds off this thread.
 
To round this thread off the cause of the vibration was a failed UK bearing in the front prop shaft double Cardon Joint. I think it had possibly started to freeze due to water ingress and showed itself a couple of days ago when I checked it for the umpteenth time.
I ordered a repair kit and mysteriously it's about a millimetre too wide and I can't get the second circlip in. I'll have to take it up with the supplier.
But this belatedly rounds off this thread.
I found with mine I could check it all day long on the vehicle and it seemed ok.
Took it off and play was immediately apparent.
Feckin thing!
 
Has anyone done the centre three bearings/bushes? I have a 35 tonne press so hopefully I can get away with not having to shell out for the whole thing.

In case you haven't done these yet, I've done them using a manual flypress at work and it done it no problem, so yours should do it. Buy genuine though (not cheap) as was told the cheap ones fail very quickly
 
In case you haven't done these yet, I've done them using a manual flypress at work and it done it no problem, so yours should do it. Buy genuine though (not cheap) as was told the cheap ones fail very quickly
I have already done them thanks. I used my hydraulic press as our fly press is usually set up to do other jobs. Interesting that the fly press worked well though. I'm always worried that I won't have enough control but this is possibly as we tend to use ours for small press stamping jobs.
 

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