Henry.adams

Active Member

• Aug 27, 2024

• #1

I’ve got a problem on my d2 where the rear right and front left sensors appear to have swapped inputs. Car drives fine when TC is disabled. but will bog down when connected for obvious reasons.

When disconnecting the rear right it no longer shows a imput on front left the nanocom and vice versa.

Some other information that may be relevant.

recently did some work on the wiring for black ecu plug.

Recently changed BCU

Recently extended all ABS Wires

Recently did shuttle valve mod.

ABS light always on

no faults on nanocom

Hope that all makes sense very confused by this one.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Aug 27, 2024

• #2

Unplug the SLABS ECU connector(C0505) and make a continuity check across pins 3-6 which are for the rear RH sensor then unplug the sensor to see if that circuit goes open... if it does the ECU is fubar

 

Henry.adams

Active Member

• Aug 27, 2024

• #3

Thanks I will try that in the next day or 2 and report back.

 

Henry.adams

Active Member

• Aug 27, 2024

• #4

I’ve also read somewhere that the Slabs ecus out the facelifts have an updated Traction control system that works with diff lock. Do you know if this is true? because if i am replacing I might as well upgrade.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Aug 27, 2024

• #5

Henry.adams said:

I’ve also read somewhere that the Slabs ecus out the facelifts have an updated Traction control system that works with diff lock. Do you know if this is true?

Click to expand...

Yes it is, the best is SRD500070

 

Henry.adams

Active Member

• Aug 30, 2024

• #6

Update I replaced the abs ecu (STD000150) and problem hasn’t gone away however the abs light on the dash has gone


I did try to check for continuity but couldn’t get any no matter how I did it not sure if I was doing it right though.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Aug 30, 2024

• #7

Henry.adams said:

I did try to check for continuity but couldn’t get any no matter how I did it not sure if I was doing it right though.

Click to expand...

As long as the sensors are connected you must get between 950 - 1100 ohm but if with the new ECU the inputs are the same like with the old one means that the circuit is mixed up somewhere unless it's a nanocom glitch.... unplug the rear sensor and read fault code that way, do you get open circuit code also for the same front side?

 

Last edited: Aug 30, 2024

Henry.adams

Active Member

• Aug 30, 2024

• #8

sierrafery said:

As long as the sensors are connected you must get between 950 - 1100 ohm but if with the new ECU the inputs are the same like with the old one means that the circuit is mixed up somewhere unless it's a nanocom glitch.... unplug the rear sensor and read fault code that way, do you get open circuit code also for the same front side?

Click to expand...

so I if unplug the rear right it’s throws a fault for rear right but will show up on the nanocom that I’m not getting a reading to the front left.

 

sierrafery

Well-Known Member

• Aug 30, 2024

• #9

Usually nanocom used to mix up the codes not the inputs but who knows.... you'll have to do that resistance check to be sure

 

Henry.adams

Active Member

• Aug 30, 2024

• #10

I know for sure that ABS ecu works on other vehicles so I’m a bit lost on what else it could be really.

Is there anything else that could be causing the traction control to come on for no reason?

 

Last edited: Aug 30, 2024