JamesBB

JamesBB

Active Member
Still getting my head around steering........

Can anybody tell me what the difference is between the long and short ends on a track rod?

I believe the track rod (behind the axle) has one of each and the drag link (in front of the axle) has 2 x short.

Is this a LH RH thread thing or more?

Thanks again in advance......:)
 
Both track rod (behind axle) and draglink (in front of axle) have one fixed TRE at N/S and an adjustable link on O/S. The adjuster works on a L/H R/H thread principal one way to lengthen and the other way to shorten. Track rod is adjusted first for correct toe out. Then drag link is adjusted to centralise steering box.
 
wammers said:
Both track rod (behind axle) and draglink (in front of axle) have one fixed TRE at N/S and an adjustable link on O/S. The adjuster works on a L/H R/H thread principal one way to lengthen and the other way to shorten. Track rod is adjusted first for correct toe out. Then drag link is adjusted to centralise steering box.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks.

So from this diagram:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attac...8-track-rod-long-question-p38_ball_joints.jpg

The fixed TRE at N/S = "Long"?
And is "Long" the trackrod + fixed NRE? Or the fixed NRE is just a longer version?

Cheers
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
The long part of both components is fitted with a non removable TRE. In this country that is the TRE that usually needs replacing unfortunately.
Click to expand...

Ah, bugger. I bought the short TRE here:
Track Rod End (Short) QFS000010D Island 4x4 - Specialists in Land Rover and Range Rover Parts and accessories for all models. UK and worldwide mail order.

But it looks like I need the entire rod that comes with the non removable one. Which is this:
QFS000060 | Track Rod End - Long

Not that I mean to get a Britpart one, just trying to find a pic of them against the part number.

At least both will have been replaced at the same time.

Cheers again.
 
Right, here is an update.
Track rod short end and adjuster removed.
However, I cannot break the taper on the non removable end so for now I have just swung it out of the way so I can get the other work done.

How to brealk the taper on the non removable TRE?
I have tried the 2 hammer approach, that worked perfectly on the other end.
I am guessing the next thing to do is get one of those ball joint removal tools and press it out. Or a pickle fork?

Any advice most welcome.

Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
Right, here is an update.
Track rod short end and adjuster removed.
However, I cannot break the taper on the non removable end so for now I have just swung it out of the way so I can get the other work done.

How to brealk the taper on the non removable TRE?
I have tried the 2 hammer approach, that worked perfectly on the other end.
I am guessing the next thing to do is get one of those ball joint removal tools and press it out. Or a pickle fork?

Any advice most welcome.

Cheers
Click to expand...

A few sharp blows directly on the end of the steering arm. I have never had to use a ball joint splitter in 50 years of taking TREs off.
 
I will give it another shot or 3 with my hammers.
Failing that the splitter it is then. Do you use the fork or scissor type?

Cheers
 
JamesBB said:
I will give it another shot or 3 with my hammers.
Failing that the splitter it is then. Do you use the fork or scissor type?

Cheers
Click to expand...
Scissor type with the pivot in the middle and a bolt on t'other end!

ball_joint_separator.jpg
 
ive never found a tre a decent hammer blow wouldnt shift ,and you only need 1 hammer to remove tre,2 for releasing tight tre thread from tube
 
dogsbody said:
Fork if you must.
It's much more satisfying.
Click to expand...

+1 from me. I tried the Wammers Hammers method and failed miserably. Probably coz hammers not big enough and it was cheaper to buy a fork, which seemed more of a guaranteed result. And it was off in 2 seconds. Cheaper than bolt splitter type too.
 
Stufer said:
+1 from me. I tried the Wammers Hammers method and failed miserably. Probably coz hammers not big enough and it was cheaper to buy a fork, which seemed more of a guaranteed result. And it was off in 2 seconds. Cheaper than bolt splitter type too.
Click to expand...

Hammer singular. Two pound hammer blow directly on end of steering arm along it's length has worked for me for over 50 years. On things a lot bigger than a Range rover. You're not holding your mouth right. Lips tight together with a look of determination works every time. :D
 
wammers said:
Hammer singular. Two pound hammer blow directly on end of steering arm along it's length has worked for me for over 50 years. On things a lot bigger than a Range rover. You're not holding your mouth right. Lips tight together with a look of determination works every time. :D
Click to expand...

Trade secrets coming out now
:D
 
I hold a 5lb club hammer on one side and belt the other side with a decent size normal hammer. Works for me.
 
Datatek said:
I hold a 5lb club hammer on one side and belt the other side with a decent size normal hammer. Works for me.
Click to expand...

Decent blow directly on the end of the steering arm along it's length, is all that is needed. You should never ever hit it on the side without support as you say you do or you can bend the arm. But a sharp two pound hammer blow directly on the end won't damage anything.
 
Mine came off easy (oh-er missis) I undid the lock nuts till they were proud of the screw threads and tapped the nuts with a hammer - popped straight off. It took me half an hour to find my ball joint splitter and then I didn't need it - typical.
 
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