Hello mate I have used the pdf that can Clarke has posted the 3 wires are white red and blue. The white simulates the lock switch which is working the blue sets the alarm off so I can assume that simulated the door opening? And the red does nothing mate
Hi mate, sorry you are having a problem with it. Maybe (possibly) I have my wires crossed in that part. I took the colour's to use from
@martyuk 's doorlok switch test sheet. Maybe I got it wrong. I didn't think so.
There are 2 styles of connection for doorlock switch-packs a single plug and a 2-plug. Let me go find Marty's test guide for you, so you can work the colours out without me messing it up.
Here it is attached. There's another one out there with the pictures of the connectors included, I will try to find it for you.
Couldn't find the one I was looking for but I did find this explanation from Marty elsewhere.
SEE THE BIT UNDER QUESTION 4.
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Hi Marty, sorry to bother you with more door actuator micro-switch problems, but i did look at the circuit diagrams here and did try your (RAVE) tests here and find my key switch test 'fails' as it's only 'on' when lever down. From other posts I see the switch is not a single pole single throw as shown on the (Rave) circuit anyway, but a single pole double throw which would be 'on' when the lever is up or down and 'off' in the artificial middle (key upright in lock)
So, the circuit diagram switch does not match the tests! In an case, to get the switch to show 'on' at each end of travel, the two contacts must be connected together and both go to the white wire (the 'common' being the black wire) Therefore, it would not matter which way you turned the key in the door to get an 'on' condition.
This seem to be confirmed by your note at the bottom of the tests:"Because of the way the switch works, it triggers the microswitch whenever the key is turned in either direction" So, therefore, how does the BECM differentiate between left and right key turns? To cloud the issue further, there is ANOTHER TEST for P38 door micro-switches online, which shows that for the second key switch test, the positive meter probe should go to the RED wire, to get the up, 'on' result! Link for test 1 :
http://www.p38rangerover.com/central-locking/key-switch-test-1.html link for test 2:
http://www.p38rangerover.com/central-locking/key-switch-test-2.html
The web page is incorrect. The way the key switch works is there is a plunger which holds the switch open circuit when the key is centered. When you turn the key in either direction, the plastic lever inside the latch moves off the plunger, connecting the contacts in the microswitch to provide a circuit. If you look on the website you've linked under the CDL switch tests, you will find they are both done with the Red wire. The second key switch test on the website should also show with the White wire.
If you are only getting an 'On' condition with the lever down, then there has to be something faulty with the latch - or you aren't moving the lever through the full amount of it's travel. The lever will move a bit, and then there will be some resistance as it moves the locking mechanism inside the latch, at which point it should also move the lever off the plunger to allow the switch to change state. If it's not moving through the full range of travel then it will only show 'On' in one direction and not the other.
By the way, my P38 is 1996 4.0 SE and my remote fob went wrong and i find there is no way I can use the EKA code to get into my car without alarm blaring and the car dash shows 'engine immobilised, use remote to re-mobilse' or words to that effect. I bought a 'good' 2nd hand actuator today but it has exactly the same keytest results as my original!
So, question 1, who's key test (wire colour to use) is correct?
Mine is correct - you should get connection on the white wire when the key lever moves to the full extent of it's travel in either direction.
Question 2, Should I take the 2nd-hand actuator back and try to get a refund as it's no different to my original, despite being 'good'?
If it really doesn't connect at the end of travel in both directions, then the latch will be of no use as it needs to trigger in both directions for EKA input.
Question 3, should I buy and fit the cheap micro-switches (mentioned online here and there) and solder them up and guess the wiring, as my switches are all in a block and 'potted' in resin and the connections are not visible and I will probably destroy them if I dig out the resin? Is there a clear accurate circuit anywhere please?
I use Cherry microswitches in my door latch rebuilds. The later style ones with all 3 switches in a block are a pain to refurb as I need to make pins for them and drill the casing to hold them in the correct position compared to the block of 3 which as locating pins (which don't quite line up to the holes in the replacement switches!)The CDL switch is at the bottom, and has the red wire connected to it,
The Door Ajar switch is in the middle and opposite orientation, and has the Blue wire connected to it,
The key switch is at the top and has the White wire connected to it.
The other side of the switch has the Black wires bridged across them.
The centre pin (NO) on the microswitches isn't used, and I cut them off.
Question 4, just out of interest, how does the BECM differentiate between a left and right key turn, if the 'pulses' are coming from just one white wire and a black negative, -assuming the RAVE test is correct? Any advice would be very much appreciated please.
As mentioned above, the BECM looks at both the CDL and key switches to work out which way it has been turned:
Connection on Key Switch and CDL switch = turned to unlock
Connection on Key Switch, and no connection on CDL switch = turned to lock
