satchmolips
Active Member
Well, had a very full day on Thursday. Have had a leak from the intermediate gasket inbetween the timing cover chest and the block for a while, oil and water, so decided to strip it right back to sort it. (Defender 200 tdi). Had done cambelt before so familiar with that, but rear cover needed to come off as well. Very useful "how to" here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42950
All went well and quite straightforward, pinning the pump to keep ignition timing in place. I followed the "how to" guide photos and put the circular gasket that goes behind the cambelt tensioner in place, over the top of the two holes as shown in the guide picture, attached
(Q1. What's the other hole for?). When fitting the cambelt tensioner bolt later I thought it took quite a bit of getting in. Anyway all back together and ran for around 15 mins but then noticed a lot of oil coming from the wading plug hole in the timing cover. So went for it and stripped it back again! It was that little round gasket, it should have been on the bottom hole (and I should have checked!). So I had pushed the bolt through the side of it and it was letting oil along the tension bolt. There must be a serious amount of oil splashing around behind the chest cover as it opens into the sump. So new gaskets and all back together again, started and fine. 12 hours solid.
Advice: Check where loose fitting gaskets like this go carefully and don't rely 100% on the guide!
A few more things. I had a dribble of oil out of the leftmost threaded stud on the water pump, obviously working its way through right from behind. More silicone and a flat washer sorted that. (Q2. How many studs should there be on the water pump? I have just this one, rest are bolts but they may have replaced previous studs? I think this may have been part of my original leak problem as the bolts in there weren't original and were not quite long enough to get a good way into thread on block).
I had been careful with setting timing and put new cambelt and tensioner on. On start up had some pinking. So reset with the 9mm locking pin, but then inserted an 8mm drill bit and retarded it (anticlockwise turn) and got timing perfect as a result. So all sorted now, apart from the chassis welding required which I noticed crawling around underneath whilst locking flywheel at TDC. Oh and the rear diff oil seal as well.....
All went well and quite straightforward, pinning the pump to keep ignition timing in place. I followed the "how to" guide photos and put the circular gasket that goes behind the cambelt tensioner in place, over the top of the two holes as shown in the guide picture, attached
(Q1. What's the other hole for?). When fitting the cambelt tensioner bolt later I thought it took quite a bit of getting in. Anyway all back together and ran for around 15 mins but then noticed a lot of oil coming from the wading plug hole in the timing cover. So went for it and stripped it back again! It was that little round gasket, it should have been on the bottom hole (and I should have checked!). So I had pushed the bolt through the side of it and it was letting oil along the tension bolt. There must be a serious amount of oil splashing around behind the chest cover as it opens into the sump. So new gaskets and all back together again, started and fine. 12 hours solid.Advice: Check where loose fitting gaskets like this go carefully and don't rely 100% on the guide!
A few more things. I had a dribble of oil out of the leftmost threaded stud on the water pump, obviously working its way through right from behind. More silicone and a flat washer sorted that. (Q2. How many studs should there be on the water pump? I have just this one, rest are bolts but they may have replaced previous studs? I think this may have been part of my original leak problem as the bolts in there weren't original and were not quite long enough to get a good way into thread on block).
I had been careful with setting timing and put new cambelt and tensioner on. On start up had some pinking. So reset with the 9mm locking pin, but then inserted an 8mm drill bit and retarded it (anticlockwise turn) and got timing perfect as a result. So all sorted now, apart from the chassis welding required which I noticed crawling around underneath whilst locking flywheel at TDC. Oh and the rear diff oil seal as well.....
