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kapilamuni

Active Member
I am in the middle of changing timing chains and while trying to remove the cam sproket bolt it sheared off partly. Now I need serious help to move on. What am I to do?
Engine set to TDC and flywheel locked. Sump removed and need to remove the head and crank shaft nut with front cover to reach the chains.
 

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kapilamuni said:
I am in the middle of changing timing chains and while trying to remove the cam sproket bolt it sheared off partly. Now I need serious help to move on. What am I to do?
Engine set to TDC and flywheel locked. Sump removed and need to remove the head and crank shaft nut with front cover to reach the chains.
Click to expand...

Wrong socket not deep enough. They are not all that tight see if you can get a deeper socket that will get hold of what's left is your only hope or its drilling the head off. Or some Irwin sockets may do it.
 
Its a new socket and deep enough. All the ridges on the bolt broken and the socket does not hold onto.
I am scared to put the drill in situ. Can I grind a chain link and get the chain off, so that I can get the head out?
 
kapilamuni said:
Its a new socket and deep enough. All the ridges on the bolt broken and the socket does not hold onto.
I am scared to put the drill in situ. Can I grind a chain link and get the chain off, so that I can get the head out?
Click to expand...

Yes you could do that. I would suggest it was the wrong size socket to do that. From memory it is 15 lb ft then 35 degrees so it is tight but not that tight.
 
No I checked it before trying. Its E14 and same fits well with the new bolt I have.
It just cracked the ridges into pieces.
 
kapilamuni said:
No I checked it before trying. Its E14 and same fits well with the new bolt I have.
It just cracked the ridges into pieces.
Click to expand...

Don't know then not on square and twisted when applying pressure. Bet you are more careful fitting the new one. ;);)
 
Of course. But I hate these Torx bolts, every where, even on the inj pump head. They are not deep and slips at the slightest opportunity.
But this bolt didnt slip, it just cracked.
 
Managed to get the head removed with camshaft and sproket attached. Removed the chains and bottom chain is much stretched. See pictures. The gold coloured chain links have shifted.
Bit worried as I dont have a crank sproket to replace. Hope the existing one will give run for about two years.
Now to remove that cam sproket bolt and to service the valves.
 

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kapilamuni said:
Managed to get the head removed with camshaft and sproket attached. Removed the chains and bottom chain is much stretched. See pictures. The gold coloured chain links have shifted.
Bit worried as I dont have a crank sproket to replace. Hope the existing one will give run for about two years.
Now to remove that cam sproket bolt and to service the valves.
Click to expand...

There maybe two marks on the pump sprocket one marked as 4 and the other marked as 6. Make sure when you refit new chains with engine locked solid at TDC number one that the bright links line up with the mark on the crank sprocket and 6 on the pump sprocket.
 
Got the CAM sprocket bolt removed after much effort. Now to clean everything and install.
Chain guides and tensioners look okay.
While cleaning the front cover observed RTV sealant applied all around. When installing with new gaskets do I need to apply RTV sealant or anything else?
For the head gasket too , do I need to apply gasket sealant? at least Hylomar or just the gasket only?
 
kapilamuni said:
Got the CAM sprocket bolt removed after much effort. Now to clean everything and install.
Chain guides and tensioners look okay.
While cleaning the front cover observed RTV sealant applied all around. When installing with new gaskets do I need to apply RTV sealant or anything else?
For the head gasket too , do I need to apply gasket sealant? at least Hylomar or just the gasket only?
Click to expand...

Hylomar on front cover nothing on head gasket. When you put sump back up, Hylomar across the two joints to block the front cover makes and also on the two joints to block the rear seal housing makes.
 
Work delayed due to my cousins funeral.
Back to clean things and noticed that one of the dowels on the head is missing. Thought it was dropped when I was removing the head but couldnt trace it. Can the head go in with a single dowel? It might take about 3 weeks to get it and I dont want the car back on the road quickly.
 
kapilamuni said:
Work delayed due to my cousins funeral.
Back to clean things and noticed that one of the dowels on the head is missing. Thought it was dropped when I was removing the head but couldnt trace it. Can the head go in with a single dowel? It might take about 3 weeks to get it and I dont want the car back on the road quickly.
Click to expand...

No, i would fit the dowel.
 
It would hv dropped towards exhaust side. As the turbo input n out put was covered certain that it did not fall onto turbo. Looking for it on the floor.
While cleaning the block noticed the following, cracks around the head bolt opening, see pictures.( between 3rd /4th and 4th/5th)
How serious are these?
 
Don't like the look of that. Wouldn't want to see that on mine.
 
Looks like someone has re fitted head bolts with water or oil in the holes and hydrauliced the block.
 
This is the first time for me with this engine. Should be the PO.
Can I continue to use the engine block? or is it the end of the road for my car?

Trying to fit the timing chains and need to move the inj pump a little engage sprocket. I dont have the special tool to rotate the pump shaft.
Any body tried a home made tool?
 
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