Bobdog

Well-Known Member
hi guys
i have had a ticking noise from the engine for a couple of months. after some investigation and a search on the forums, i narrowed it down to the most likely cause of a leaking manifold gasket. it only happens when the engine is under load and other than that, the engine runs fine. as far as i'm aware, it causes no real problems other than an annoying noise (if anyone knows otherwise i'd appreciate any advice). anyway, it's gradually got worse and i thought i should do something about it. upon closer inspection i noticed a small amount of carbon around the y-pipe gasket, then noticed that the rear bolt is missing! maybe a previous owner or garage monkey dropped it down a drain whilst fixing it and just didnt bother replacing it. anyway, my question is, having limited tools, (i.e. no stud removers or taps etc) should i attempt it myself? are the remaining bolts likely to shear? basically, is it an @rse of a job that i should take to a garage to have done?
 
I had the same thing with a faulty manifold to Y pipe gasket and ran with it for 6 months, but as the gearbox fluid and filter required replacing and the Y pipe has to be unbolted so this was done with any problems and no broken studs etc by an indi LR garage.

And answer to the questions Yes & Yes,
 
thanks for the replies so far, would i be right in saying that the threaded part is the manifold flange?
 
thanks for the replies so far, would i be right in saying that the threaded part is the manifold flange?

That's it three studs through the holes in Y pipe flange and then a nut.
As mentioned flood the studs/nuts with Plus-gas.
Looks to me that you will require a socket extension bar to reach up to the nuts from ground level.
 
Sounds similiar to what I had, turned out to be a gasket or so I think, a "mate of a mate" has a garage, I gave the gasket to the garage and showed them the problem, for all I know they could have just tightened up the bolts a bit and threw the gasket away but the problems fixed. put a dot of gun gum around the suspect hole and let it cure and see if the problem persists, this isnt a permenant fix just an indicator of the problem as it can be a pig of a job, the 1st time you put your foot down it'll blow the gun gum right out as I found out!
 
That's it three studs through the holes in Y pipe flange and then a nut.
As mentioned flood the studs/nuts with Plus-gas.
Looks to me that you will require a socket extension bar to reach up to the nuts from ground level.

hmm... just been out to have a look. i see what you mean- the stud being like a short piece of threaded bar screwed into the manifold flange, then secured with a nut from the bottom. one of the studs is missing but looking at the other two, i think a sheared stud situation is very likely. garage job it may well be! if that is the case, are there any other routine maintenance jobs i could get them to do while they are there? like diff oil change maybe?
 
If you have an auto RRC or D1 then replace the filter and fluid the sametime as the Y pipe has to be droped to do that, so new replacement gaskets are required.
 
If you have an auto RRC or D1 then replace the filter and fluid the sametime as the Y pipe has to be droped to do that, so new replacement gaskets are required.

thanks mate, its a D1 '96 3.9 ES. trying to work my way through the usual niggles with discos, master cylinder replaced so far, but the 'boy racer bouncing off my bumper' incident, set me back a bit. got the fog lights working for the first time since i've had it, as i had the bumper in bits i put new bulbs in. 5 mins later one of them blew, grrr! dodgy bulb or dodgy wiring???
 
just an update- finally got round to doing something about my ticking problem. i found an M8 bolt and screwed it through the missing stud hole (not all the way, so as to make it easier to remove should i need to) then stuck a nut on the other end. i managed to get to the hole from the top by pulling off the middle two HT leads. theres just enough room to get a spanner on the nut from above. i then got my spanner on the nut nearest to me (working from the drivers side) and managed a 3/4 turn on it! i could see the gasket compress as i tightened it. i couldn't get to the nut at the back, this one will have to be done from underneath i suppose. i then gave it a test run down the road- instead of sounding like a V8 lawnmower, it now purrs like a cat! i'm not sure if this will only be a temporary fix, time will tell. at least now i know the nuts are not siezed and a gasket change should be quite simple but if anyone else has the same problem, i would recommend giving your nuts a tighten first!
 

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