B

Buel10

Active Member
Hello everyone.

Thanks to the wonderful help on this forum, my search for a decent FL has hopefully come to an end - I’ve just put a deposit of £400 down on this;
https://www.adcarsalesuk.co.uk/used...-2-2-td4-xs-4x4-5dr-coalville-201910022859144

They’ve agreed to give it a service before I pick it to next weekend, given me £600 for my 2003 Audi A3 TDI and is throwing in a cam belt kit for cost price. Apparently it was done 4 years ago so is due next year? I thought these had timing chains but what do I know?
I’ve got 3 months warranty with it.
I paid the £400 deposit on a debit card for consumer protection but they apparently won’t accept payment via debit card for the balance of £5,400 due to fees incurred so only accept bank transfers. If it was the amount on bank transfer then I’d run a mile as you’ve no protection then but I thought this unusual?

I’d really appreciate any thoughts you guys could offer....
 
Did you put the reg plate in the mot online checker? Reg plate is hidden.

Looks clean. Reasonable price for model, year and mileage. It's the pre facelift without the dpf. Pre facelift are slightly cheaper. With warranty is always good.

Its a timing belt.
 
Thank you very much for that. Sorry, yes I had a quick look - OY60 BGZ
No DPF is good, right?
 
Service sheet says 10 years or 150k miles, which ever comes first. I know i won't be leaving mine that long.
 
Buel10 said:
Thank you very much for that. Sorry, yes I had a quick look - OY60 BGZ
No DPF is good, right?
Click to expand...
No dpf means its an eu4 spec. Facelift onwards had dpf which makes it eu5. Not a problem as both eu4 and eu5 freelander 2's have to pay extra to get into London. But as they tax diesels oft the road in future, the eu4 will be pushed earlier. It's many years away unless you live in London or visit a bit city.
 
Hippo said:
No dpf means its an eu4 spec. Facelift onwards had dpf which makes it eu5. Not a problem as both eu4 and eu5 freelander 2's have to pay extra to get into London. But as they tax diesels oft the road in future, the eu4 will be pushed earlier. It's many years away unless you live in London or visit a bit city.
Click to expand...
I try to stay away from there whenever I can ;)
 
Having a pdf isn't a problem. Some peeps try to avoid them. There doesn't seem to be many with trouble on FL2's. Optional on early uk model's. Fitted to all my11 onwards in the uk.
 
Some info

Hippo said:
On a Freelander 2 the 8th character of the vin will tell you if it had a dpf fitted when first built in the factory. If the 8th character is C or E then it has a dpf. The Freelander 2 was always available with a dpf from the beginning in the UK, but it was optional in early years (at extra cost). Most FL2 diesel markets operated on similar rules but not all. On the MY10 (model year 2010) onwards they fitted them as standard in the UK because they were forced to because of emission rules. Surprisingly the UK was late to enforce dpf's being fitted as standard. Some countries demanded they were fitted as standard sooner while others didn't bother. Yer would think the UK would have been one of the first to demand it as standard with the constant talk of air pollution.
Click to expand...
 
This is great info, thank you (again).
Anything else you’d do when you get it, I think you previously mentioned oil changes?(this is apparently getting a service before I pick it up)
 
Hippo said:
Some info
Click to expand...
Very interesting, thank you.

One thing I will add is that when driving in a straight line with the steering wheel at centre, there did seem to be a bit of play which made no difference to the steering? (Video to follow later)
 
If it were mine (i keep vehicles for a long time so hope full maintenance pays oft reducing problems later on) then i would make sure all servicing has been done. And all liquids have been changed. Including engine oil, gearbox oil, front transfer box oil, rear diff oil, rear haldex oil and filter, engine coolant, power steering fluid and reservoir which includes the filter in it, and brake fluid.

Thats a personal choice. I do my own work unless it's too big a job, so cost of doing this is cheaper.
 
From my own experience of buying a 2010 freelander 2 sd4, when taking a test drive listen for a hum whine from transmission as this may be the bearing in the front or rear diff from the prop shaft as this a known weak point, Bell Engineering seem to make a living from replacing them (about £700 for service exchange diff fitted and haldex service), also check brake discs for wear as mine needed replacing at about 60,000 miles.
 
Make sure everything electrical works including moving the Terrain Response switch and seeing the dash change and update as you move to different settings.

Also switch on hdc, put in first gear, drive to say 12mph then feet oft all pedals. Abs will break it to a slower speed. This proves its working.

Just turning on Terrain Response or HDC helps as it will complain if you do so and theres a fault which won't allow it to operate.
 
Buel10 said:
Very interesting, thank you.

One thing I will add is that when driving in a straight line with the steering wheel at centre, there did seem to be a bit of play which made no difference to the steering? (Video to follow later)
Click to expand...
Is the steering wheel loose when stationary with the engine switched oft?

The power steering on FL2's is quite powerful, making steering very easy. It varies the power with speed as you don't need so much power assistance at higher speeds, so it won't provide it.
 
And here is a link to the video of the steering wheel 'issue' (may not be an issue):


And any thoughts on this wheel arch?
 
I will check my steering tomorrow.

Can't see from the pic. What is the wheel arch problem?
 
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