dirty hands

dirty hands

New Member
I know whining Land Rovers have been done to death. I’ve read all those posts about it. But it’s so very hard to tell.

Whining started after I patched the exhaust up (See http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/carbon-monoxide-levels-41753.html)

I also went out to the gravel car park at top et t’ill and let son no2 drive with the diff lock on. Not something I normally do as I’m usually ‘fixing’ it.

Noticed immediately the day after on my way to work that the whole sound of the Land Rover had changed. Lower pitched at low speeds high pitch at high speeds and louder. Sounded like it was coming from the back Right. I thought it was the exhaust.

It’s got progressively worse as I keep driving it to, the point that It really does sound like a Stuka diving.

Speed + power = loud whine and stuka high pitched.
Speed + no power (i.e. foot off gas down hill) = no whine.
Clutch in to change gear or free wheel = no whine.
Low speed + pull it out of gear to free wheel = very low whine lower in pitch with declining speed.

Just at the point of power or no power it will rattle but that sounds like its coming from the front. Power on = whine. Power off = no whine.

The rusty piece of ****e that holds the back wheels on or the ‘rear axel’ as it’s sometimes known has leaked since I bought it (a hole in the casing). So I’ve been keeping it with some oil in but it will spit it out again real quick. Front axel fine. Can’t get into the gearbox (filler plug stuck) so I can’t comment on the oil level in there. It’s still dripping out so there must be some in there somewhere.

Haven’t got a clue what’s going on. This is what I think.

1) Don’t think it’s the wheels. It free wheels fine. No noise at all. No resistance at all, smoother than some cars I’ve had.
2) Don’t think it’s the engine. Starts ok (ish). Nice and smooth sounding when warm. Whine does not rise with revs. It rises in pitch and volume with speed.
3) Gear change is fine, no judder or vibration through gear stick.

Anyone want to have a go at a diagnosis?

I’m taking it to be listened too at the weekend. I think it might still be the exhaust, but I know f’k all about Land Rovers.

Cheery o
 
is it stuck in diff lock? if your levels arnt right in your transfer and main gear box maybe the diff lock hasnt fully released itself...

just a thought.

G
 
Either that or his transfer box is: buggered, shagged, ****ted, fooked, shat on, **** faced, jizz pied, past its best, seen better days, knackered, shattered, or goosed.

There is always the chance that it could be broken
 
I'd really make a supreme effort to get at your gearbox filler & check your oil level. How many miles do you think you've done without checking the oil level?

Where does your rear diff/axle leak from? If you can get at it a good flush with petrol and a chemical metal repair is going to be better than potentially running it dry.
 
Griffdowg said:
is it stuck in diff lock? if your levels arnt right in your transfer and main gear box maybe the diff lock hasnt fully released itself...
Click to expand...
Yeh, I took it back up to the gravel pit after I noticed the whine wasn’t going away to select and de-select diff lock. It all works fine. I can tell when it’s on as the wheels grip and slip and when it’s off it drives as expected. It goes into low and high fine also. I noticed the posts about stuck diff lock’s a while back and will be jacking up the corners to spin wheels etc this weekend, I don’t think its partially stuck but I’ll explore it anyway.

pos said:
Either that or his transfer box is: buggered, shagged, ****ted, fooked, shat on, **** faced, jizz pied, past its best, seen better days, knackered, shattered, or goosed.
Click to expand...
That’s also a possibility (bugger!), there’s a transfer box for sale in York for £145. Looks in good condition 54,000 miles, clean, etc. does this sound reasonable?
Marcus said:
I'd really make a supreme effort to get at your gearbox filler & check your oil level. How many miles do you think you've done without checking the oil level?
Click to expand...
I will, I’ve just been to Halfords looking for a square spanner to undo the plug and some transmission fluid to top up if required.

I reckon it’s been 6 weeks since I bought it and all fluid levels were toped up (so the fella said). I have probably done 500+ miles since then.

Thanks for the help folks, I’ll keep you posted.
 
dirty hands said:
I reckon it’s been 6 weeks since I bought it and all fluid levels were toped up (so the fella said). I have probably done 500+ miles since then.[/COLOR]

Thanks for the help folks, I’ll keep you posted.
Click to expand...

DEF' wouldn't take his word for it! I tend to change all fluids as soon as I buy a motor. People will tell you anything to flog a veekal!

Dunt need a square spanner. Use a good quality ring spanner (14mm I think?) or socket and long breaker bar. Try it with the gearbox warm, make sure you are turning it the right way as the thread is tapered and use the long breaker bar to give it some welly. People for some reason really jam them in & it isn't neccessary.
 
Listen to Marcus dude,

You need to stop right now and check all your levels. Run any of the drive trains dry and you'll trash them = expensive repairs. The fact that it appears that oil is comming from the G Box does not mean that it is comming from the G Box. It could already be too late for your rear diff - hope it's not a Salisbury! I get the feeling that you've bought the wagon and just 'cracked on' this is why folks thinks landies are unreliable! They're not, but they do need looking after. If they are they will repay you tenfold. So! Take yer bloody wagon off the road and give it a complete fluid change - everything! Change all the filters. Renew the brake pads/discs (these are your lifeline) and change any suspect tyres. Beleive me you wont regret it.
 
Jesus, you sound like it was your land rover I've alegedly ****ed.

Your making a lot of assumptions here. It's a 20 year old Land Rover 90 things are going to go wrong.

I bought it so I could take it apart when things break, I'm happy that it needs attention. I thought it would be interesting to see what you fellas thought the problem was.

Cheerio
 
Keep yer pants on. You asked what we thought the problem was & we thought it was serious enough that if you didn't do something sharpish could be terminal or at best expensive.

Ask a question you'll get opinions. You might not like them, but that isn't really our problem. :rolleyes:
 
sorry dudes, I do sound a bit tetchy today.

I have a list of thing to try to find out whats going on. which has been sugggested by the fine and helpfull people of the site.

1....get the plug out the grarbox

..

100...Take to local guarage (he's got a 90 too)

I do appreciate the help....
 
Well that’s been an interesting day.

Just got back from’t garage on foot, Broke down on the way. Here’s the story

Checked everything over this morning, jacked each corner to spin / examine all wheels. They looked in good fettle. Put dif lock on, wheel will lock up, dif lock off normal again. I can see all the shafts moving with lock on and the front or back with it off depending on which wheel I’m spinning. All seemed in reasonable fettle. Got the bugger of a filler plug out of the gearbox (As suggested by Marcus : Try it with the gearbox warm, make sure you are turning it the right way as the thread is tapered and use the long breaker bar to give it some welly.)
Stuck mi little finger in to find it well stocked with oil. Did same with transfer gearbox. This one was in need of topping up but only by an inch or so). Once again all in good fettle.

The exhaust was a bit tight near the PTO Linkage so I relaxed one of the joints by an inch or so.

So ‘lets go for a test drive’ I thought. Took it to the top of the hill again. No improvement at all. Could tell immediately. Turned round immediately to go see mi friendly local mechanic. BANG. Sounded like something had fallen off. I stopped to have a look but everything was still attached. Got back in the cab and noticed that the hand brake was slipping. Ta Ta Ta Ta Ta Ta Ta is what it sounded like.

I rolled it down the hill very slowly and tried to drive up the drive to the garage and was getting the same noise as the hand brake Ta Ta Ta Ta Ta Ta etc.

Somethin was slipping badly. Couldn’t go forward and couldn’t put hand brake on and in the middle of a junction and then comes the arriva bus. Everyone (well campers and tourists) looking at me like I was an idiot (Yes I know). Luckily I did have reverse and tucked it in at the side of the road.

Walked to the garage and told him all about it. He’s gonna pick it up and have a look but he reckons it’s the splines on the main gear shaft (maybe). Luckily he has a gear box and transfer gear box under the bench. I may be in need of them. Good man…

Great day out causing mayhem in me own little village….

Thanks again for the advice. Does any one have an alternative diagnosis?
.
 
Ooooo bugger! No point second guessing since it's gone bang! Once yer man has it apart he can have a good shufty & do the neccesary I guess.

If he does fit the G/box or transfer box or both that he has try to get some kind of warranty, even 3 months since you don't know where it came from.

Has he given any indication of price for supply & fit?

Oh, & since the G'box you have is oof of a Disco, check the ratios of any stuff he puts in!
 
Ashoofack said:
It could already be too late for your rear diff - hope it's not a Salisbury!
Click to expand...

Too late by far for the rear diff. While its out the hole in the casing will be patched as well. So I hope to not have an oil slick outside my house from the constant fillin and leaking of oil.

I went to work in the wife's clio 1.8 Rsi today, Holy mary mother of Jesus! cars are so fast!!!!
 
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