ferryjambo

ferryjambo

New Member
Hi all,

Im a new member from Edinburgh who last week purchased his first freelander, a 5 door 51 plate td4 es.. I also own a rover 75 cdt so i know a little about the engines on these but the rear window calibaration has me stumped & i hope one of you gents could solve it for me..

done the calibaration tip
re window up alarm off disconnect battery then re connect it, nothing happens.. But when i leave the window down disconnect then reconnect the battery, the rear window moves up to the top ??:doh:

also with the window up the rear wiper does'nt work or the rear heating element either, but the wiper will work with the window in the down position..
when i lock it i also get the 1 bleep of the horn letting me know something isnt closed right (rear window)??..:(

the car thinks the rear window is in the down postion but the calibration reset dosent work on it.. any tips on what else to check would be greatly appreciated ..:)..

thanks

william..
 
ferryjambo said:
Hi all,

Im a new member from Edinburgh who last week purchased his first freelander, a 5 door 51 plate td4 es.. I also own a rover 75 cdt so i know a little about the engines on these but the rear window calibaration has me stumped & i hope one of you gents could solve it for me..

done the calibaration tip
re window up alarm off disconnect battery then re connect it, nothing happens.. But when i leave the window down disconnect then reconnect the battery, the rear window moves up to the top ??:doh:

also with the window up the rear wiper does'nt work or the rear heating element either, but the wiper will work with the window in the down position..
when i lock it i also get the 1 bleep of the horn letting me know something isnt closed right (rear window)??..:(

the car thinks the rear window is in the down postion but the calibration reset dosent work on it.. any tips on what else to check would be greatly appreciated ..:)..

thanks

william..
Click to expand...

It's your Hippo's way of punishing you for being a Hearts fan.
The car is rejecting you as it's new owner :D
 
There are so many problems with these rear window logics, think the designer should be ...... something.

They tried to be clever but its ****e !!!


I still got problem with it, just see my other thread. And last year I have changed the cables, no prob.



Regards,


FD-Mike
 
yep.

upon taking off the rear cover i noticed the inside of the door has broken glass lying in it. not a lot but enough to tell me that the rear window had been broken at one stage & replaced.. The rear heating element wires had been left off too so i fitted them back on..

it's funny how the rear window goes down by pressing the top (up) part of the dash switch. then goes up by pressing the bottom (down) part of the switch. something has defo been put together back to front somewhere in the re-fitting of the new rear glass i think, but what??.. I'll take off the rear quarter panel tomorrow & check the relays/ earth cable too & the micro switch on the rear lock if i can get it off ok... i gave everything a quick spray with some silicone lub to see if it freed up anything stuck on the lock too.. i wonder if i could release the window from the runners when it's in the up position & slide it down to the bottom then re- do the bolts again. as the car thinks its in the open (down) postion anyway maybe this would tell the ecu that the window is open when it really is & i could raise it then re-calibatrate it.. these are all posibble cures that i have thought of & intend to do a trial & error on to see what happens..

yes the sliding rear window seems a gimmick to far as it seems to have given loads of people trouble in the past.. a straight forward side opening rear door with a glass encased in a rubber seal like a proper rear window would have been much better. but what do i know..:)
 
ferryjambo said:
yep.

upon taking off the rear cover i noticed the inside of the door has broken glass lying in it. not a lot but enough to tell me that the rear window had been broken at one stage & replaced.. The rear heating element wires had been left off too so i fitted them back on..

it's funny how the rear window goes down by pressing the top (up) part of the dash switch. then goes up by pressing the bottom (down) part of the switch. something has defo been put together back to front somewhere in the re-fitting of the new rear glass i think, but what??.. I'll take off the rear quarter panel tomorrow & check the relays/ earth cable too & the micro switch on the rear lock if i can get it off ok... i gave everything a quick spray with some silicone lub to see if it freed up anything stuck on the lock too.. i wonder if i could release the window from the runners when it's in the up position & slide it down to the bottom then re- do the bolts again. as the car thinks its in the open (down) postion anyway maybe this would tell the ecu that the window is open when it really is & i could raise it then re-calibatrate it.. these are all posibble cures that i have thought of & intend to do a trial & error on to see what happens..

yes the sliding rear window seems a gimmick to far as it seems to have given loads of people trouble in the past.. a straight forward side opening rear door with a glass encased in a rubber seal like a proper rear window would have been much better. but what do i know..:)
Click to expand...

The rear window works fine if everything is as it should be - stop moaning and fix it
 
DD3 said:
The rear window works fine if everything is as it should be - stop moaning and fix it
Click to expand...

Having just bought this car a week ago I inherited this problem mate, so everything obviously is "Not as it should be" :mad:.. do you seriously think if i could have fixed it myself without asking for some help on here i would have done so by now??..:rolleyes:
 
If yer disconnect the battery, then connect the battery, and put the window fully down, then fully up (to calibrate), does it then stay up? If it stays up and you lock the car with the remote, does the horn sound? If so, then it thinks something is open. If the doors and bonnet are closed, then it could be the rear window location sensor me thinks.
 
ferryjambo said:
Having just bought this car a week ago I inherited this problem mate, so everything obviously is "Not as it should be" :mad:.. do you seriously think if i could have fixed it myself without asking for some help on here i would have done so by now??..:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Whenever i Disconnect the battery, then reconnect on mine the rear window goes down immediately (without touching the switch). Is this some form of master re set? not sure. As long as you know your radio code, maybe worth a try.
 
tried all of the above. yes mate the horn sounds every time i lock it too.. ;)

re- rear window location sensor, could you tell me exactly where this is situated & how i can get the bugger off to fix/replace it..

thanks for all the help/advice/sarcasm..:D just had a mate over with his 03 plate td5 & wished mines had the same back door with a fixed glass window cause of all this trouble too..:).. i know it must be a simple thing as the window works perfect, only in reverse if you know what i mean..
 
Last edited:
the problem [could be] to do with the door switch, yes i know it can open and close [the solenoid] but it also sends a DOOR IS SHUT SO BLIP WINDOW DOWN AND ENABLE DOOR SOLENOID [as in open door] or DOOR IS OPEN, NOW SHUT SO BLIP WINDOW UP [as in lock door] . . . . .so if after a door re set, its still bleeping and drive cables are OK ,then check the door actuator [or motor as they call it] :)
 
I've never had to take the rear window apart but I'm guessing that the winding mechanism is on the wrong way round.
 
Quote: I'm guessing that the winding mechanism is on the wrong way round.

Dont think the cables can be put in the wrong way around. I think Hippo has posted a picture of the assembly opened up.
There are no limit switches on the assembly. The window position is calculated from feedback from the motor by the CCU.
 
vic.middleton said:
Dont think the cables can be put in the wrong way around. I think Hippo has posted a picture of the assembly opened up.
There are no limit switches on the assembly. The window position is calculated from feedback from the motor by the CCU.
Click to expand...

well it's managed to be arse about face somehow if both the switch and the battery reset are working in reverse. Is it possible to reverse the electrics?
 
god knows mate, i took off the back quarter panel to have a look at the relays etc. they all seem to be in place ok & i cannot see any wiring that's been cut/spliced anywhere near them either.. i wonder as the ecu thinks the windows down, could not just slacken off the glide rail that hold the window then drop it to the down position then re-tighten the nuts up, leaving the window in the down position.. then just raise it with the switch to the top, then try a re-calibration from there??.. think this is worth a try??..
 
Moleshome said:
Can it get any worse?
Click to expand...
Must admit it is a reet ****e design far to complicated its as if somebody designed one bit then said to an electrical enginear get that to work somehow :D the motor drive has a sort of crude encoder and its this stoopid bit that measures its lift or drop [hence the calibration ,to give it a start datum] did ma head in trying to sort it out, its ****e, lucky Porky has an nvq in plumbing [eeze er furra bread :D ]
 
If its back to front mate like you say, whats probably happened, is that someone has taken off the motor housing and put it on the wrong way round. (Probably when window broke. I had to do this to turn the mechanism to get the window to drop)

This will reverse the polarity to the motor hense, up being down and down being up, if you follow me. 4 x torx screws need to be removed, them pull out the motor cover a little and rotate 180 degrees.

I posted a thread with pics of the rear motor housing on here somewhere.

I also found that a good clean of the motor Amature contacts did wonders.

heres the thread, but it dont show the motor housing, but thats the amature inside it.
 
Last edited:
jedi said:
If its back to front mate like you say, whats probably happened, is that someone has taken off the motor housing and put it on the wrong way round. (Probably when window broke. I had to do this to turn the mechanism to get the window to drop)

This will reverse the polarity to the motor hense, up being down and down being up, if you follow me. 4 x torx screws need to be removed, them pull out the motor cover a little and rotate 180 degrees.

I posted a thread with pics of the rear motor housing on here somewhere.

I also found that a good clean of the motor Amature contacts did wonders.

heres the thread, but it dont show the motor housing, but thats the amature inside it.
Click to expand...

cheers matey, :)

I'll give this a try at the weekend. I have found a receipt for a replacement mechanism on the drivers window but nothing on the rear one, i suspect they were done by 2 different people with the drivers one being done competently & working fine & the rear one being botched re-calibration etc.. :( the passenger one is also goosed in the up position, so that'll be a wee project when the weather gets a little better ;)..

A quick visit to my local car breakers yard got me some bits & pieces of interior trim that needed replacing or were just missing .. :) Only 2 freelanders were in it though.. :rolleyes: ..


thanks again for the tip Jedi..
 
Sorry to crash in on your post mate........

I too have a fault with the rear window, pull the handle in and the initial drop does not happen, slide it down the inch or so it needs by hand and then open it, it shuts properly when you close door.

Apart from that it all works fine, up down with the switch ok

Anyone had this, I have replaced battery recently if this has any bearing??

Cheers, Darren
 
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