Hi ..bought a td4 F1 which came without a rear prop and aware these are removed due to issues with VCU and IRD. The guy told me it was for economy 2 wheel drive which remains to be seen. I have bought another full prop with VCU which I believe is good condition as removed from a fully working 4 wheel drive however is there a way I can test the IRD before fitting prop back in? Also does it keep oil if the prop has been removed or will it need filling first? Sorry I am an amateur with 4 x 4 s ..thanks
That's not the best of starting points...
Every Twonk says that....! But riddle me this, if it's just for economy, why didn't they sell the vehicle as a 4qwd, and instead buy a peugeot 206 or BMW 320 e46 diesel? And where is the original prop? Why did they dispose of it? Could it be because the VCU was cooked and they yanked it when it started damaging the other driveline components but fore before it totallty killed them?
I hate to be that guy but it's 50/50 if this is going to be scrap metal that's going to further wreck your 4wd system, or a good serviceable component that's going to resurrect your vehicle.
Pending better advice from "the grown-ups", I'd get under the car, and OPEN the IRD (Transfer Box) filler port first, then once you know its opening, drain the IRD oil and see what it's like, remembering that all that glitters is not gold, and in the case of oil glitter couldn't be any further from gold even if we had 386 elements in the periodic table. The reason Is stressed opening the filler plug first is they have a tendency to stick, and a couple of guys have been marooned when they drained the IRD oil for a service and couldn't get the filler plug open to refill their now empty IRD.
The very fact your vehicle has had its prop removed "for economy" ah, ah! AHH!! PULL-CHIT!!! - sorry about that sneeze, but something triggered my allergies there... As I've alluded to elsewhere in this thread, removing the prop and VCU suggests your transmission components have been exposed to a tight/seized IRD, and as such the rear diff and IRD will be more "delicate" than other examples might be. Ergo you really ought to do a "one wheel up" test when you fit your new propshaft, refer to a sticky thread in this section "tests every new Freelander driver should to their vehicle" for what's involved. Do this dest and check out the results BEFORE driving with the prop - as you really know naff all about the new prop other than the seller's word, so a one wheel up test will prove the new VCU is good before you run the vvehicle and do irreprerable damage to your IRD and or diff.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Your first job will be to loosen the IRD fill plug with a tight fitting hex socket, as they tend to be stuck fast and made of cheese - so you need to know you can fill it.
Then you need to drain the IRD oil. See what colour it is, if there's a metallicy tint to it, then that is the bearings ground to a pulp and suspended in the oil - not a good sign.
Then remove the rear pinion and examine the teeth on the crown and pinion gears for signs of wear. You may like to put pics up on here of them for advice. The pinion gear is inside the IRD (obviously?) viewed through the pinion 'whole'.
Then refit and refill.
You should also consider the condition of the diff - but most will take a punt on it.
If all looks OK, you can fit the props, VCU - hope you got all the bolts to connect to diff & IRD & 4 mounting bolts for VCU bearings.
Then do a 1 wheel up test to check the VCU. As its been standing, you'll want to do it a number of times. If its OKish, take it for a decent drive - don't do to many tight maneuvers, especially in reverse. Then to the test again.
Just my 2 penneth.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I am of the same opinion that a Freelander that's had the props removed is almost certainly nothing to do with fuel economy.
However, it does amaze me how many people on here have bought cars with them removed and have been able to put props back on without finding the IRD is to trashed. The best bet is that the props were removed because of noisy support bearings or they were advised to to stop problems occurring or so they don't have to keep matching tyres. So, although I still think it is unlikely the props can be reinstated without work on the IRD - it is by no means for sure.
The replacement VCU being in good condition is even less likely - always budget for a recon VCU & support bearings even if you get a "good" prop & VCU - or indeed a good working 4WD car!
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I bought a car from a dealer that had the prop removed because the support bearings had gone so this is not unusual. When I asked about the propshaft he just pointed at it in the corner of his garage and said most Freelanders in the country have had them removed to save money replacing the bearings but also to prevent them causing damage. Of course he didn't say the second bit, I just added that.
Before fitting the propshaft put a couple of large screwdrivers in the universal joints either side of the VCU and try to turn it. If you can make it turn with difficulty it may not be critically bad but you still need to do the one wheel up test BEFORE driving the car with it fitted. If you can't make it turn at all even using all your strength then don't fit it until you've replaced or refurbished the VCU.
Before fitting the propshaft put a couple of large screwdrivers in the universal joints either side of the VCU and try to turn it. If you can make it turn with difficulty it may not be critically bad but you still need to do the one wheel up test BEFORE driving the car with it fitted. If you can't make it turn at all even using all your strength then don't fit it until you've replaced or refurbished the VCU.
Afternoon all, I'm sorry if I came across as all scary angel of death, but there were a couple of important points I wanted to hammer home to protect you from some potential pitfalls, like the IRD filler plug, and the one wheel up test. GrumpyGel is right, inspecting the back pinion is a good idea that I forgot to mention., I forgot to mention it. That's easily done, 5x nuts on studs on the back of the IRD take it out and eyeball it, however when reassembling it, the bolt holes aren't evenly spaced, so it will only go on one way, maybe put match-marks on the flange and the case before removing it.
You might want to play this video backwards and it shows removing the prop to get to the pinion which is then removed and a blanking plate put in its place. Whereas you are going to remove and refit the pinion, fit and fit the prop
If your IRD has a blanking plate fitted the IRD is pretty much guaranteed that it is toast, if it has the pinion but no prop its 50/50 and you might get lucky with a prop assuming it has a decent VCU, rather than a baked one in the centre.
You might want to play this video backwards and it shows removing the prop to get to the pinion which is then removed and a blanking plate put in its place. Whereas you are going to remove and refit the pinion, fit and fit the prop
If your IRD has a blanking plate fitted the IRD is pretty much guaranteed that it is toast, if it has the pinion but no prop its 50/50 and you might get lucky with a prop assuming it has a decent VCU, rather than a baked one in the centre.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Afternoon all, I'm sorry if I came across as all scary angel of death, but there were a couple of important points I wanted to hammer home to protect you from some potential pitfalls, like the IRD filler plug, and the one wheel up test. GrumpyGel is right, inspecting the back pinion is a good idea that I forgot to mention., I forgot to mention it. That's easily done, 5x nuts on studs on the back of the IRD take it out and eyeball it, however when reassembling it, the bolt holes aren't evenly spaced, so it will only go on one way, maybe put match-marks on the flange and the case before removing it.
You might want to play this video backwards and it shows removing the prop to get to the pinion which is then removed and a blanking plate put in its place. Whereas you are going to remove and refit the pinion, fit and fit the prop
If your IRD has a blanking plate fitted the IRD is pretty much guaranteed that it is toast, if it has the pinion but no prop its 50/50 and you might get lucky with a prop assuming it has a decent VCU, rather than a baked one in the centre.
100% agree about loosening the fill plug on the IRD BEFORE draining. And make sure to use a good quality hex socket. the IRD fill plug is genuinely made of cheese.
