ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
Replace caliper all round quite an easy job but i dont know how expensive for a L322
also replace discs and pads
also replace discs and pads
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
a bit 'oval-kill' IMO, just replace the seized one, you should only need to replace one disc if other side is recent, but a pair is best practice, that is assuming the seized caliper has damaged the disc, which it may have, but new calipers all round is just plain daft. Also check the flexi brake pipe is ok, sometimes the inner lining gets damaged creating in effect a one way valve, maybe yours is actually causing caliper to stick on,just a thought.
If it aint broke, don't fix it. IMO
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myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
First, remove wheel, then remove caliper, 2 bolts (allen i think ) hold it on to the carrier.
When off,slacken bleed nipple slightly, use a G-clamp and try to push piston back, if it moves freely with nipple undone, the problem is your flexi.
If it is still seized with good flexi you will have to disconnect the flexi, but you must crimp the pipe with a proper brake pipe clamp so as to avoid damaging inner pipe.
Its quite easy if you know how, a remanufactured caliper,if needed is probably cheapest at around £70-80, but i would try it with original pads and discs to see if the heat from seizure has warped your discs and fried your pads.
Summary,,, 2 allen bolts ( may have plastic covers on them ) and flexi off, thats the caliper off, there may also be a wire connected to a brake pad, thats a wear sensor, be gentle....... simples. Good luck
When off,slacken bleed nipple slightly, use a G-clamp and try to push piston back, if it moves freely with nipple undone, the problem is your flexi.
If it is still seized with good flexi you will have to disconnect the flexi, but you must crimp the pipe with a proper brake pipe clamp so as to avoid damaging inner pipe.
Its quite easy if you know how, a remanufactured caliper,if needed is probably cheapest at around £70-80, but i would try it with original pads and discs to see if the heat from seizure has warped your discs and fried your pads.
Summary,,, 2 allen bolts ( may have plastic covers on them ) and flexi off, thats the caliper off, there may also be a wire connected to a brake pad, thats a wear sensor, be gentle....... simples. Good luck
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Thanks for your replies.
Have got caliper off and noticed the dust seal around the piston has detached itself on one side. Managed to free piston, but concerned that the piston dust seal wont go back into place. Does anyone know what I should do?
Disc is fine no damage fortunately.
Have got caliper off and noticed the dust seal around the piston has detached itself on one side. Managed to free piston, but concerned that the piston dust seal wont go back into place. Does anyone know what I should do?
Disc is fine no damage fortunately.
ovalandrover
Well-Known Member
a bit 'oval-kill' IMO, just replace the seized one, you should only need to replace one disc if other side is recent, but a pair is best practice, that is assuming the seized caliper has damaged the disc, which it may have, but new calipers all round is just plain daft. Also check the flexi brake pipe is ok, sometimes the inner lining gets damaged creating in effect a one way valve, maybe yours is actually causing caliper to stick on,just a thought.
If it aint broke, don't fix it. IMO
We are talking brakes here that are stopping a 2 ton vehicle and probbly all the same age so for peace of mind I would go the whole way and not have any trouble in the near future. whats more important money or lives?
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Money
,,, The other three could be in perfect order so replacing all is ludicrous,
by all means throw money away, i have worked on cars most of my life...
I did mention best practice procedure regarding discs, but if discs are relatively new there is no need, other than phsycologically getting your comfort blanket out, and your wallet. Use your intelligence to work out what needs replaced and don't just throw parts at it unneccessarily.. You will need that money for the next inevitable problems.
You could have brand new components all round but NOT have correct brake fluid, rendering your system compromised. We don't know what condition his brakes are actually in off course, but i assume they are ok.
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2.0_hippo
Well-Known Member
money
the other three could be in perfect order so replacing all is ludicrous,
by all means throw money away, i have worked on cars most of my life...
I did mention best practice procedure regarding discs, but if discs are relatively new there is no need, other than phsycologically getting your comfort blanket out, and your wallet. Use your intelligence to work out what needs replaced and don't just throw parts at it unneccessarily.. You will need that money for the next inevitable problems.
You could have brand new components all round but not have correct brake fluid, rendering your system compromised. We don't know what condition his brakes are actually in off course, but i assume they are ok.
+1
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Moveitall, the dust cover can sometimes come adrift when you push piston fully home, press brake pedal to push it out a little, the dust cover basically is seated in a groove in the bore and externally on a groove on piston.
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Hi again moveitall,
If you need piston out you just pump until it pops( if its on car)
or pull it out with waterpump pliers, or a shot of compressed air into flexi inlet. Clean bore up with carb cleaner and 800-1200 grit wet or dry...
Then you will see the dog for he rabbit...
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Let us know how you get on..
The ethos of this forum is 'fix it for fu*ck all', where possible lol
The ethos of this forum is 'fix it for fu*ck all', where possible lol
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Datatek
Well-Known Member
Never bodge brakes.Hi again moveitall,
If you need piston out you just pump until it pops( if its on car)
or pull it out with waterpump pliers, or a shot of compressed air into flexi inlet. Clean bore up with carb cleaner and 800-1200 grit wet or dry...
Then you will see the dog for he rabbit...
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
I agree, but as you've quoted me, please point out the bodge to which you are referring please...
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Wet & Dry, if the cylinders are that bad it's better to replace the caliper, stopping 2.7 tonnes is not something to take risks with.I agree, but as you've quoted me, please point out the bodge to which you are referring please...
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Evidently you know f*ck all about brakes.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
About as much as you then.
myfirstl322
Well-Known Member
Elementary bore honing, like any cylinder. Go back to your cave.
Datatek
Well-Known Member
Did you say bore?
You hone cylinders with a machine to ensure they stay true, not a bit of wet and dry on your finger.
Another good reason not to buy your L322.
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