Evan farmer

Active Member
changed the engine in my defender the other week and tried to fire it no luck turns over well and lots of white smoke but doesn’t start tried purging the system and the engine light doesn’t flash fuel is going to head engine was running but the truck itself hasn’t ran since 2012 there is fuel leaking from the regulator
Do I need to code the injectors
Should I change regulator
Should I change fuel filter
What should I check for?
 
Not sure where mate I’m sorry about that hopefully someone will be here soon to correct me though, has it plenty of fuel in tank?
 
tyr a local agricultural suppliers, or ask your local garage to borrow one.

Or you can get them on the bay easy enough.

Cheers
 
Last year I bought one like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-MASTE...L-KIT-GAUGE-/272814398736?hash=item3f85015d10
I selected it because it had the most different pipes and fittings included in the kit. As it turned out, it had just the thing for connecting to the high pressure feed from the fuel pump and I was able to verify that I'd got 4 bar.

Have you got access to a Nanocom or similar? There's various things you can check. For example does it show revs when you're turning the engine over? If so, it means that the ECU is at least getting a signal from the crank position sensor.

They should start and run even if the injectors aren't coded.
 
Last year I bought one like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-MASTE...L-KIT-GAUGE-/272814398736?hash=item3f85015d10
I selected it because it had the most different pipes and fittings included in the kit. As it turned out, it had just the thing for connecting to the high pressure feed from the fuel pump and I was able to verify that I'd got 4 bar.

Have you got access to a Nanocom or similar? There's various things you can check. For example does it show revs when you're turning the engine over? If so, it means that the ECU is at least getting a signal from the crank position sensor.

They should start and run even if the injectors aren't coded.
Isn’t there one with less stuff so it would be cheaper? Also would the exhaust not connected affect it it ends whith the turbo
 
Isn’t there one with less stuff so it would be cheaper? Also would the exhaust not connected affect it it ends whith the turbo

I went for the one with the most connectors so as to increase my chances of getting something that would fit. The trouble is with buying these things online is that you can't really see what shapes and sizes the connectors are from the illustrations in Ebay, Amazon and the like. And they often don't tell you in the description.

I doubt if the exhaust not being connected would make a difference. The TD5 has quite a wide bore pipe as it is, and there aren't any sensors on the exhaust pipe. Provided the turbo is on, it should be OK for a quick test run. See if it will fire with a shot of Easy Start. Then at least you know that the pistons are going up and down, it has some compression and the valves are opening and closing at about the right time. If it will fire on Easy Start, but not otherwise then it must be something to do with fuelling. Either something mechanical like fuel pressure, or electronic such as the ECU and associated circuitry.
It's worth going over it all and making sure all the wires are connected and the mating surfaces are clean. I've often left one or two undone in my excitement to see if the engine will fire. Easy to forget are the injector loom multiplug at the front of the cylinder head and the little earth wires that go on the driver's side of the transfer case.
 
I went for the one with the most connectors so as to increase my chances of getting something that would fit. The trouble is with buying these things online is that you can't really see what shapes and sizes the connectors are from the illustrations in Ebay, Amazon and the like. And they often don't tell you in the description.

I doubt if the exhaust not being connected would make a difference. The TD5 has quite a wide bore pipe as it is, and there aren't any sensors on the exhaust pipe. Provided the turbo is on, it should be OK for a quick test run. See if it will fire with a shot of Easy Start. Then at least you know that the pistons are going up and down, it has some compression and the valves are opening and closing at about the right time. If it will fire on Easy Start, but not otherwise then it must be something to do with fuelling. Either something mechanical like fuel pressure, or electronic such as the ECU and associated circuitry.
It's worth going over it all and making sure all the wires are connected and the mating surfaces are clean. I've often left one or two undone in my excitement to see if the engine will fire. Easy to forget are the injector loom multiplug at the front of the cylinder head and the little earth wires that go on the driver's side of the transfer case.
It did start on easy start but wouldn’t run if you stopped squinting it all plugs are connected
 

Similar threads