L

Lloydo

Member
Ok
So I know there are a lot if threads similar on here, however I am losing time and sanity/the will to live & love Landy!

Did debate putting this in International Rescue, as I am search & rescue myself, and therefore need my Green Goddess 110 Td5 SW up and running ASAP.

Full story:

1 - recently fitted a new aftermarket stereo, replacing another - LR ISO connector set up- no dodgy soldering. Same day, went to start, no go. Thought may have turned key too quick. Waited, did it properly, and away it went.

2 - Driving along 3 days later, and changed 2nd to third, engine cut out. Rolled home, tried to restart, and it misfired and kind of ran. Then did the same again. Then an horrible almost mechanical sound from under drivers seat.

3 - Now removed stereo, replaced injector loom, still no joy. Tried easy start. Same lumpy running. All fuses under seat ok. Tried using both keys, fobs and locking / unlocking.

Air intake drawing in ok. Starter seems fast enough. Horn not working but lights do. Cleaned loom connections. Cleaned connectors behind drivers speaker.

What do I check next? Battery, cables, ECU.
Local garage can't help until next week. Diagnostic (snap on) not even lighting up when connecting to Landy. Fuse bank with electric windows not live at ignition.

Grrrrrr. Please advise.

To top it off, my freelander is now playing dash light bingo now too.
 
Run a temporary earth cable from the battery to the ECU main earth point. Reseat all fuses and relays as they can get intermittent connections with time. Does the MIL lamp light up when engine wont run?
 
MIL light - is that the orange or red?
One brief flash of red engine / lightning symbol. Really early on in this 5 day saga.
Never any other light issues, other than sometimes could light doesn't light. Already at temp I guess.....?

Will try earth tomorrow.

Many thanks LR Legend.
 
The MIL (malfunction indicator lamp - americanism) light is the one that looks like an engine symbol. It should come on briefly then once the key fob has been sensed it should go out. If it stays on then either the key fob is not being sensed or there is a major fault which is why the engine wont run. You need a Nanocom or Hawkeye to read the ECU error codes if this is the case.
 
i reckon you may have 'nicked' a wire and now its grounding. Where did you get the live feed or feeds and the earth from for the stereo?

Like shifty says, get a fault reader on it. identify the area and wiring for the fault and you should find your solution.
 
Ok guys.
Thanks for all the help, assistance and advice.

Having borrowed 2 diagnostic systems, and neither would activate from feed, I retested the fuses and the interior light one had gone.

Diagnostics plugged in, and vast amount of codes coming up.

List goes back to my local LR garage, and well

Prizes go to Shifty (diagnostics needed), Drewster (engine ecu problem), Bromsgrove (open circuit), and Big Ginga (stereo was the fault).

Appears that the memory has spiked, through the wiring without fuses failing, and that noise was the ecu itself.

Fried and toasted I believe its called.

'Top switch open' it what lead me to it.

So I ask....best place to get new, not extortionate priced ecu? Possibly with a remap now I have the opportunity?
Or should I risk going 2nd hand, with a minimal warranty?
And last but not least - do I use the stereo again or no?
 
Lloydo said:
Ok guys.
Thanks for all the help, assistance and advice.

Having borrowed 2 diagnostic systems, and neither would activate from feed, I retested the fuses and the interior light one had gone.

Diagnostics plugged in, and vast amount of codes coming up.

List goes back to my local LR garage, and well

Prizes go to Shifty (diagnostics needed), Drewster (engine ecu problem), Bromsgrove (open circuit), and Big Ginga (stereo was the fault).

Appears that the memory has spiked, through the wiring without fuses failing, and that noise was the ecu itself.

Fried and toasted I believe its called.

'Top switch open' it what lead me to it.

So I ask....best place to get new, not extortionate priced ecu? Possibly with a remap now I have the opportunity?
Or should I risk going 2nd hand, with a minimal warranty?
And last but not least - do I use the stereo again or no?
Click to expand...
Stereo suspect probibly not new engine ecu make sure you have all the codes as you will need them
 
Yeah a friend wrote all codes down and got them looked at by LR independent mech. He thinks this, not me!
I don't have them, but can put them up on here if think would be useful.

Stereo been out since it happened, as thought may have some relevance.

There does appear to be some heat damage to the clear insulation tube around the memory cable.
 
Ok so codes were

116 Topside switch failed post injection
128 Topside switch failed post injection
135 Injector 1 open circuit
136 Injector 2 open circuit
137 Injector 3 open circuit
138 Injector 4 open circuit
139 Injector 5 open circuit
 
Many ecu have live and ignition feeds - check wiring diagram
 
Ok, so after consulting a fair few people, the general concensus is that the ECU is fried, as the stereo spiked and it was scrambled (do all mech's use eggs as descriptives?)
Personally, I thought if you can reprogramme, there must be someone that can rebuild.
However...
eBay here I come for a second hand one, and poss a remap while im there.

Any thoughts, all hallowed Zen masters of Landy Zone?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
Rear spring stuck in upper seat
Replies
12
Views
471
Twinnie
T
N
TD5 Cranking Not starting - Solved
Replies
18
Views
2K
NdG1977
N
J
engine cuts out at high revs, eml on td5
Replies
2
Views
304
Tim4x4
Tim4x4
R
Upgraded stereo not working
Replies
4
Views
309
Atomician
Atomician
Brown
TD5 electronic faults - any ideas?
Replies
15
Views
2K
Brown
Brown