guineafowl21 said:
... won’t come off its splines. Any tips? I’m trying to replace the seals behind it.
Click to expand...
I've done this on my TD5...took me 3 days in all to get the bu**er off, working on it till dark after work!! In the end i used a thin blade in an angle grinder being very very very carefull not to go so deep and hit the splines....when you have cut a deep enough slot bang a sharp ended chisel in the slot and then use a lump hammer...it"ll come off !!!!
TS
 
I once cut one off before I learned that the two hammers trick is surprisingly effective. You need plenty of room to work.
 
jamesmartin said:
pullers and hit the arm at the same time youd need a good sized hammer and drift
Click to expand...

I’ve already given it a fair beating, but will persist...

smithtrevor said:
I've done this on my TD5...took me 3 days in all to get the bu**er off, working on it till dark after work!! In the end i used a thin blade in an angle grinder being very very very carefull not to go so deep and hit the splines....when you have cut a deep enough slot bang a sharp ended chisel in the slot and then use a lump hammer...it"ll come off !!!!
TS
Click to expand...

Er, yes. I was looking to put it back on again, though. That would certainly work if I get desperate - maybe weld up the slot when it’s back on?

Discokids said:
I once cut one off before I learned that the two hammers trick is surprisingly effective. You need plenty of room to work.
Click to expand...

Two hammers trick?
 
guineafowl21 said:
I’ve already given it a fair beating, but will persist...



Er, yes. I was looking to put it back on again, though. That would certainly work if I get desperate - maybe weld up the slot when it’s back on?



Two hammers trick?
Click to expand...
2 hammers is the same as a good whacking, because its held tight on a slow taper ,hit hard enough the tapered hole in arm will distort and let arm drop off, it does need a puller with serious tension with a lot of box arms
 
Er, yes. I was looking to put it back on again, though. That would certainly work if I get desperate - maybe weld up the slot when it’s back on?



Why??? They are a cheap enough replacement and without forgetting this part forms part of the steering !!!!!
 
Last edited:
You have a number of choices.

Persevere where you are at at the moment with pullers and hammers.
Destroy it to get it off and replace with new.
Remove the whole steering box to get better access, go back to the first 2 options. Or take it to your local friendly who has a press.

What condition is the ball joint? so if you fit new you then get a new ball joint too.

Put a good puller on it plenty of penetration oil and leave it overnight, you may get lucky and it just decides to give up while you are in bed and be laying on the floor in the morning:rolleyes::eek:

Some say a small amount of heat can help. Personally I would never consider welding back up and reusing as said it’s steering and pretty important.
Good luck this type of job certainly fills up the swear jar pretty quick:)

J
 
Drop arm puller £30-£40 on ebay. don't know how good they are. Mine is still on the splines in the corner of the garage.
 
I broke a puller trying to get this off.

Done it! I modified a ball joint separator (fork type) by widening it so it spanned the splined bit, and beat and cussed at it till the arm dropped off.

For those interested, it’s Land Rover special tool no. LR0001COYC (come off, you c*nt).
 
They sure knew it was going to be needed if the number is 0001 & some body had a sense of humour COYC

I used to work with some equipment that was called xxxxx HMF (yes it was a heavy piece of kit)

J
 
Thanks for all your suggestions, by the way - they helped spur me on to keep trying.

The annoying thing is, I had a ‘91 200Tdi a few years ago and its drop arm came straight off, no bother at all.
 
I made a frame for a 20 ton jack which will fit over drop arm dot like hamering drop arm to much lot of shock for needel rollers un less going to fit new box
 
Yes, I don’t like hammering stuff too much. Hopefully for steering and suspension parts my puny hammer blows don’t match up to the forces involved in off-roading.

Sometimes a shock is essential - it was a bit of a revelation when someone taught me to hammer the outer taper of a ball joint to free it. Before I’d always levered between and buggered the boot.
 
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guineafowl21 said:
I’ve already given it a fair beating, but will persist...
Click to expand...

Take care - you must use only controlled violence and very carefully. I personally would never offer a steering box violence. You can damage the box and you can break the output shaft and or weaken it so that one day... fecker lets go on you! I have seen this a couple of times on abused steering boxes and once on this forum within the last 6 months.

Make up a puller up or buy one - can be had for £30 and resale possibility at say £25.00 on eBay would be high. You could probably rent it out and make a fortune!
 
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