BulletBrindle

BulletBrindle

Active Member
Hi. Hopefully someone else has seen this...

My TD5 Defender has always started first time with no delay (apart from when the ECU failed, but that's another story). However, today, it would not crank at all, but I was getting the solenoid click. I managed to jump start it to get me home, and then tried it again, but still just a click.

The previous owner replaced the starter motor, so it's less than 8,000 miles old, and from what I can see, it looks pretty new.

I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter with the engine off, and it was reading around 12.3V. I also have a basic volt meter built into the dash that reads about 0.4V lower than the multimeter. Interestingly, the built in volt meter was only reading around 11.4V on the drive home, whereas I think it normally would read closer to 13V (from memory).

Any ideas what's going on here?

Any tips gratefully received.

Cheers
 
Activator wire (spade connector on the starter motor)

But your gauge reading 11.4 would definitely point to a dead alternator...
 
I'll see if it'll jump start and then take it from there. At least if it does, then I can properly test the alternator with the multimeter.
 
Ok, it doesn't want to jump start, and the battery is at 12.56V when I measure the voltage directly (without the jump leads connected) - I'd have thought that'd be enough to crank it.

Next step is checking out the start motor wiring, I guess. Any pointers on where to start? Disconnect the current wires, clean and reconnect?

I've found the activator wire (I think!), and it seems to be securely connected.

Cheers
 
BulletBrindle said:
Ok, it doesn't want to jump start, and the battery is at 12.56V when I measure the voltage directly (without the jump leads connected) - I'd have thought that'd be enough to crank it.

Next step is checking out the start motor wiring, I guess. Any pointers on where to start? Disconnect the current wires, clean and reconnect?

I've found the activator wire (I think!), and it seems to be securely connected.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Getting the solenoid to "click" is only half the battle, unless the contacts connect properly once brought together by the solenoid, and there is good voltage across the motor, current won't flow to it.
Do check all the earths from the batt to the bod and the engine.
When I rebuilt my starter motor I discovered that each connection has two nuts on it, the outer ones, connecting the wires were tight, but the inner ones, holding the contacts to the body of the solenoid, were loose. so you could remove the outer ones, the wire connectors etc, then tighten the inner ones up, if necessary.
Don't forget you could connect jump leads directly to the solenoid. but a dodgy batt and/or a dodgy alternator really really won't help.
You need about 12.65 volts at rest and 14+ volts at the batt when the engine is running maybe at a bit over tickover.
 
Today's test involved fully charging the battery, cleaning the contacts and refitting. Same result. Hmm...

Maybe the problem is with the starter itself after all...
 
BulletBrindle said:
Today's test involved fully charging the battery, cleaning the contacts and refitting. Same result. Hmm...

Maybe the problem is with the starter itself after all...
Click to expand...

Can you load test the battery, it is possible to show good voltage but still be bad, how far do the volts drop across the battery when cranking, 10.5 or less means it's shot
 
JimS said:
Can you load test the battery, it is possible to show good voltage but still be bad, how far do the volts drop across the battery when cranking, 10.5 or less means it's shot
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I can't load test, but before I charged the battery, I was getting high 11s across the battery when cranking. Also, the battery is pretty new (sub 8k miles and less than 5 years old), so I'd be surprised if it was that
 
Fuel pressure regulator quite often fails on TD5's and where it's positioned when leaking can take a starter motor out in no time, might be worth checking, only takes a small weep
 
Freelander1banger said:
Put your jumper pack positive to the 12v spade on the starter, and negative tot he starter body/ negative terminal and that will test just the starter
Click to expand...
When you say "spade" are you referring to the activator wire? Could I get the same result by shorting the activator wire to the main 12V starter motor feed?
 
BulletBrindle said:
When you say "spade" are you referring to the activator wire? Could I get the same result by shorting the activator wire to the main 12V starter motor feed?

You can do a jump from the main line on the starter to the spade on the starter solenoid. [ care taken not in gear ]
Click to expand...
 
BulletBrindle said:
When you say "spade" are you referring to the activator wire? Could I get the same result by shorting the activator wire to the main 12V starter motor feed?
Click to expand...
You can do this also, i prefer using a external power source as then you dont have to worry about any other wiring being faulty, you are purely testing the starter
 
BulletBrindle said:
I'm going to try and do it without removing the starter from the engine. Apparently it's doable...
Click to expand...
As I was having such a **** time getting it off, I too wondered about that, but then a kind member told me how to take it off so I did so. It was then a lot easier to do it on the bench and a lot easier to keep it clean and not drop bits in amongst the gravel.
Do have a read about how to get it off a Disco, it may not be the same on a Defender but it can't be that different I'd a thort.
However I do await correction as nothing is ever obvious on LRs!
Best of luck!
 
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