cjslator

cjslator

New Member
Hi all, not been on here for a while but remembered my login details :)

I've got a 2001 TD5 Disco2, this morning it was difficult to start and had a terrible 'misfire'. Before setting off on our journey I took it for a loop round the village to see if it would clear. After half a mile the misfire stopped, which I thought could have been a cold start issue.

The engine would now run on 5 cylinders and pulled well until 2000ish rpm then it was very hesitant. After 10 minutes it lost a lot of power and sounded like it had dropped off at least 1 cylinder, it was juddering a lot.

We'd turned around at this point and as we pulled onto the drive the engine stopped completely and wouldn't restart.

I've checked the connectors visible around the air/turbo side, they all seem good. I've unplugged and replugged the ECU connectors. After googling the TD5 there is alot of discussion about oil in looms, my loom connectors were dry to the ECU.

Please can anyone offer any advise/assistance?

Kind regards

Chris
 
seems like a fuel pump issue at first sight...or injector washers and seals... or crank sensor missbehaviour
 
well crank sensor was my initial thought, but the misfire could have been because of low fuel pressure.

From start to finish (first hesitation to not running at all) is around 30minutes, so that could have been the fuel pump performance deteriorating.

Will try and check it in the morning, is there any quick and easy checks?
 
Turn key to position 2 and pump gas pedal about 8 times, management light should flash and pump will run for three mins
 
DJ Xan and Sierrafery you're both legends, many thanks for the assistance so far, progress.

I've done the above (pump pedal) and the fuel pump isn't running, now it's been mentioned I've heard the fuel pump running before. I've had a look in the Haynes manual at the replacement procedure but want to check the voltages getting to the pump tomorrow before I order one.

I'm fairly confident it's a fuel pump issue rather than a supply one however, is there an easier place to check for supply voltage than on the pump connector to save me stripping the boot out first?

Many thanks once again
 
Check the fuel pump relay. Not sure which one it is cos its too cold to go and look. It should be labelled though.

Swap it with one that looks the same and see if it makes any difference. I think the heated rear screen relay is the same type. Which should also be labelled.
 
Thanks Shifty. Just checked the Haynes diagrams, the rear headed window is the same relay :) Will swap them out in the morning.

Thanks again all
 
well posh, having heated rear screens, ive a sheet of sterling board as a back window at the moment
 
Tried the relay this morning, no change. I was on my own though so couldn't listen to see if it was energising. Fuse was good though. I'll attack with a multimeter tonight to see if it's getting the feed. Hopefully it is as then I know exactly what the fault is.

Thanks again for the assistance
 
Good evening, I've been out again tonight.

I've got +12v on the fuse (10 30A) which is the fuse feeding the relay. I swapped the relay this morning which didn't change the fault. And I've removed the relay and using some wire put +12v on the slot where connector 87 of the relay would be (according to the diagram direct feed to pump) and it DOES NOT run.

So I'm now looking at either the pump, front to rear wiring or bad earth. I don't have any Torx bits though to remove the 3rd row of seats so will need to borrow some from a work colleague. I'm tempted just to order the pump though, does anyone have any thoughts?
 
Sincere thanks again to all who helped diagnose this. Fitted it yesterday, let it run through the 3min bleed sequence, then the battery was flat. Put some jump leads on and fired straight up.

In total it took around an hour, I started messing with the 3rd row seats so I could take the trim out but ended up just working the carpet free from the boot finisher at the back and the two side panels, this allowed enough free space to do the job. Replacement pump from eBay for £78 next day delivered.
 
I am still having problems with my D2 TD5, it started with hard to start and misfire, I cleaned the red plug on the ecu (covered with oil) no difference, then I canged the loom, no difference ! the pump was running ok, but noisy, so I drove it to my local indepenent where we plugged it in, but no flauts recorded. He thought the pump sounded noisy, and suggested it was getting lazy. I fittted an exppensive VDO pump, which after fitting seamed to fix it, starting well no misfiring and seamed to pull better--job done--2 days later broke down !!
After towing home I tried to start it, pump running but a bit noisy, cleaned the ecu pins again, it finally started but is missing again---HELP
 
loggerjohns said:
I am still having problems with my D2 TD5, it started with hard to start and misfire, I cleaned the red plug on the ecu (covered with oil) no difference, then I canged the loom, no difference ! the pump was running ok, but noisy, so I drove it to my local indepenent where we plugged it in, but no flauts recorded. He thought the pump sounded noisy, and suggested it was getting lazy. I fittted an exppensive VDO pump, which after fitting seamed to fix it, starting well no misfiring and seamed to pull better--job done--2 days later broke down !!
After towing home I tried to start it, pump running but a bit noisy, cleaned the ecu pins again, it finally started but is missing again---HELP
Click to expand...

sounds like you need to replace the injector seals and washers, use genuine LR ones
 
Thanks johnlad
I had wondered about injector seals, but there was no sign of diesel washing under the rocker cover, and the diesel in the fuel filter was nice and clean, I was told it gets black if the copper washers are leaking,
it just feels like there is a lack of diesel, or a restriction somewhere.
 
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