hi all i've got a discovery 2 td5 auto. have noticed when parked and revving the engine it judders at about 1500 revs to 2500 revs really noticeable when cold how ever when warm can only slightly notice it at just over 2000 revs??? To me when its doing it the engine seems to sound ok (doesn't seem to stutter) when driving you cant notice it at all??? has anyone any idesa?
ratty
I'm not special I'm limited edition
update so far, i have checked out the ecru no oil present, also checked the waste gate all moving freely, i have disconnected the maf and it made no difference... first thing in the morning when revving it starts to shudder (like a misfire) can feel it through the landy,at around 1200 revs but still seems to get better the more revs unnoticeable at around 2500 revs any help??? many thanks
Hmmm...... sounds like it might be an injector copper washer leaking, and probably the first or second one at the front end of the engine.
My advice ... buy a set of new copper washers and O-rings, and study RAVE and LZ so you can do the washers fast and well if the need arises.
Your symptoms are exactly what mine was like first time I had copper washer bothers.
Charlesy
My advice ... buy a set of new copper washers and O-rings, and study RAVE and LZ so you can do the washers fast and well if the need arises.
Your symptoms are exactly what mine was like first time I had copper washer bothers.
Charlesy
There isn't really any way to tell.
The fuel pump and filter make a louder more squealy noise if there is air or gas in the fuel, as happens when a washer is leaking. The fuel filter is supposed to separate air and return it to the tank, but this is not able to cope with a lot of gas and air. The pump and filter will hardly make a sound when there's no gas/air in the fuel.
Also, if there is gas or air in the fuel system such as gas from a leaking copper washer, the engine becomes VERY difficult to start, but once started it seems to run well enough, though the engine will probably be down on power and running on four cylinders.
The job LOOKS enormous, but isn't really. There are several good threads in LZ about it.
If it was MY car I would re-torque the injector clamps soon, and see if that helps. They are Torx bolts set to 32 Nm (24 lbf.ft).
Whip the lid off the engine and have a look inside. NEAT!
Get a clicking torque spanner and set it to about 35 Nm or 26 lbf.ft, just a little more than standard.
LOOSEN the first injector clamp torx by about a quarter turn (not as much as half a turn), then in ONE continuous slow steady move, torque it back up till the spanner clicks.
Do them all like that.
Put the lid back on, and be careful with the sealing ring at the half-moon bit at the back.
You never know, it might help, but even if it doesn't, at least you now know what the insides of the engine looks like, and it won't be so scary next time.
Charles
that is true i don't look inside normally only work on the outside but i need too want too learn more about these engines!!! but as for starting mine starts first time overtime on the button no matter what the weather. just misfires between 1000 and 2500 revs when cold gets better when warm.. it could misfire although the rev range but hard to tell with the engine noise is noticeable lower down the revs as the whole truck vibrates....
check the ECM cable (under drivers seat) for oil in the plugs.
good Q - dont think so. I was thinking defender 
i have checked everything i know off red plug ecru ok, disconnected maf no change, removed and cleaned map no change, have disconnected waste gate rod waste gate moves freely, only seems very notable when cold but starts overtime on the button don't know what else i can check... the only other thing may be coolant temp sensor but don't know if that would effect it.....
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
U better think to the MAP/IAT sensor(it's not expensive and a joke to fit) >>
The MAP/IAT sensors are combined in one unit located in the inlet manifold. It provides pressure and temperatureinformation about the air in the inlet manifold to the ECM. The ECM compares the voltage signal to stored values andcompensates fuel delivery as necessary. The ECM uses the signal from the MAP/IAT sensor for the following functions:
l To calculate the delivered fuel limits.
l To calculate the air mass in the cylinder.
l To calculate the air speed density.
l To calculate air temperature.
The MAP sensor works on the piezo crystal principal. Piezo crystals are pressure sensitive and will oscillate in accordance to changes in air pressure. The MAP sensor produces a voltage between 0 and 5 volts proportional to the pressure level of the air in the inlet manifold. A reading of 0 volts indicates a low pressure and a reading of 5 volts
indicates a high pressure.
The IAT portion of the sensor works as a Negative Temperature Co-efficient (NTC) sensor. As air temperature rises, the resistance in the sensor decreases. As temperature decreases the resistance in the sensor increases. The ECM
compares the voltage signal to stored values and compensates fuel delivery as necessary.
wow is there anything you don't know!!! thanks for your link earlier for the rave download i messed about for an hour or two trying to sort it downloaded your link worked straight away!!!!!!!!! ok i have removed and cleaned it but as far as if its working correctly i don't know, so by the sounds of it that could cause a misfire with the fuel starvation or overfill. only seems to do it when cold so i'll get one see what happens don't know what else to try if its not but i'll change it first.. many thanks
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
What about the EGR did u get rid of it?......if not u can try to see how the motor is running without it by pulling out the vacuum hose from the valve(or both hoses if it's Euro 3 type)...just clog the hose with something(i used a screw and some ducktape)..as to not lose vacuum when it gets command....this way the EGR valve will remain closed blocking the exhaust gas and the engine will get just clean air through the inlet.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
I suppose it's euro 2 then...yes that pipe....just make sure u dont lose vacuum through it.....i dunno the UK mot regulations...in my country doent make any difference......this way is reverseble ...u just have to pull out the small screw from the hose and connect it back to the valve.....and dont bother with the "egr valve blocked" fault code if u scan it.
