Hi, I'm 3/4 of the way through my rebuild 2a 88 with a 3.5V8 and I was wondering if anybody had fitted a TD5 engine into a series, as I have a rotten D2 with a good engine and I keep looking at it and wondering if it would fit and how much work it be, and if anybody has already done this? Cheers
Rougharse Racing
Well-Known Member
Never heard of it being done, but that doesn't mean it won't fit.
Clearly TD5's do fit in Defenders, but they are a long engine and the front cross-member is a a lot further back in a Series 2A. so may foul the front of a TD5.
Have a look at a TD5 Defender's engine bay, as a guide the vertical shaft on a Defender steering box is more or less where the shaft for the steering relay is on a 2A, so this gives you an idea where the 2A front cross-member would be in relation to the front of the engine.
TheTD5 Defender engine/gearbox cross-member is quite a bit thinner than earlier cross-members, so it is possible that there may be clearance issues with the 2A engine/gearbox cross-member.
Clearly TD5's do fit in Defenders, but they are a long engine and the front cross-member is a a lot further back in a Series 2A. so may foul the front of a TD5.
Have a look at a TD5 Defender's engine bay, as a guide the vertical shaft on a Defender steering box is more or less where the shaft for the steering relay is on a 2A, so this gives you an idea where the 2A front cross-member would be in relation to the front of the engine.
TheTD5 Defender engine/gearbox cross-member is quite a bit thinner than earlier cross-members, so it is possible that there may be clearance issues with the 2A engine/gearbox cross-member.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
Anything is possible. But I’m not sure the Td5 will mate to the Series box without work. I’m fairly sure you can’t just bolt a Td5 up to an LT-77 only the R380. But not sure what the difference is.
Length wise you’d probably be fine. The TD5 is hardly any longer than a Tdi. But it’s likely be a tight fit with the stock Series rad location. Of course it’s pretty easy to fit a Defender style radiator panel to a Series or even just step the stock item out a bit for more clearance.
Td5 is an awesome engine. But unless you are planning on doing big miles a year. The V8 is likely going to be more fun. Although a 3.9/4.0 would likely go a lot better than a 3.5
Length wise you’d probably be fine. The TD5 is hardly any longer than a Tdi. But it’s likely be a tight fit with the stock Series rad location. Of course it’s pretty easy to fit a Defender style radiator panel to a Series or even just step the stock item out a bit for more clearance.
Td5 is an awesome engine. But unless you are planning on doing big miles a year. The V8 is likely going to be more fun. Although a 3.9/4.0 would likely go a lot better than a 3.5
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Measure the length of engine & gearbox then work out if you have room/length for it.
Then see if you have enough room for that prop shaft
Series seat box will need to be modified
Then see if you have enough room for that prop shaft
Series seat box will need to be modified
I do wonder how many wires it needs to run the td5 engine.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
Don’t scare me….
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
More than a Tdi. About the same as an EFI V8.
It will go.
I used a td5 out of a disco into a series 1. Use disco gearbox and transfer box , The engine will need to be back tight to the bulkhead and the headlight centre panel will need to be moved forward. Lengthen front propshaft, shorten rear(mine is 16 and a half inches but try and keep it 15 +) re jig centre g/box tunnel.
If you buy a mot failure disco use the ecu etc.
Only trouble I had was the series 2 disco I used had a factory immobiliser, had to send the ecu away to be sorted and also have a small box and loom fitted £75 .
My series 1 had been highly modified back in the late 80’s and registered as such.
Been asked a few times…Why?
Well because born in 1951 I drove series 1’s and I didn’t think they were great (my opinion) my series is now usable , anyway it gives the rivit counters something to talk about.
I used a td5 out of a disco into a series 1. Use disco gearbox and transfer box , The engine will need to be back tight to the bulkhead and the headlight centre panel will need to be moved forward. Lengthen front propshaft, shorten rear(mine is 16 and a half inches but try and keep it 15 +) re jig centre g/box tunnel.
If you buy a mot failure disco use the ecu etc.
Only trouble I had was the series 2 disco I used had a factory immobiliser, had to send the ecu away to be sorted and also have a small box and loom fitted £75 .
My series 1 had been highly modified back in the late 80’s and registered as such.
Been asked a few times…Why?
Well because born in 1951 I drove series 1’s and I didn’t think they were great (my opinion) my series is now usable , anyway it gives the rivit counters something to talk about.
We need a few photos if you don't mind.
Attachments
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
And there was me thinking how does the engine not hit the axle…
Then realise it’s just a series 1 body on coils
Is that a club sticker on the bulkhead on the second photo;?
Then realise it’s just a series 1 body on coils
Is that a club sticker on the bulkhead on the second photo;?
Just a series 1 on coils. Here we go.
What sticker?
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
What is green on the passenger side bulkhead ?
Not sure about the sticker, there were a couple, most have been removed. Not painted the vehicle other than the front wings which had to be replaced. Most used panels on these motors are cheap enough except for front wings, they seem to command stupid money.
Rangieman123
Active Member
A Series gearbox will handle a V8 when treated with mechanical sympathy but I'd fear that the torque of a TD5 at a lower rpm/shaft speed might be too much...
Found the same problem years ago with the v8 and series box, you certainly couldn’t drive it like you’d stole it . The chassis on my old series 1 had already had the cut and shunt treatment back in the late 80’s(rivit counters look away) complete with coils and discs.
I’ve cut and shortened prop shafts over the years and never had one let go but was reading recently of problems guys had with these, have I been lucky or maybe materials have changed over the years.
