H

Huw3750

Member
I'm hoping someone has an idea because I'm running out fast,

I've got a 99 TD5 which was starting fine, we've done some work on it including a new gearbox and clutch.

One day after turning it round on the drive I did some work on the rear brakes (changed a calliper), my brother changed the rear drivers side door lock module, the fuel filter and the oil filter under the turbo.

Now she turns over but doesn't start?

Thinks it does or I have done to her:
Ran the fuel filter purge cycle, lost count how many times.
Pulled off the fuel line at the regulator, fuel coming out.
Turned over after fuel filter changed, but no smell of diesel at the exhaust.
The nanocom fires the injectors and you can hear the click on all five.
The nanocom shows the immobiliser is off and says Robust, which is the uk setting? Red LED is off to.
Both keys are on the nanocom key list, there were two more so there gone.
Battery voltage drops below 10VDC when cranking. Does this kill the ECU?
Tried a spare fuel pump, no joy.
Borrowed my brothers starter motor and battery from his TD5, no joy

Things to check:
ECU loom, check for oil.
Inertia switch. Will it crank if this is tripped?

Any input would be greatly appreciated, I'm running out of ideas.

I'm in Caerphilly, south wales,

Cheers in advance,
Huw
 
Last edited:
charge the battery or jump off another vehicle, you need full power, leave ingnition on for a while, turn off for 15secs and repeat for a few times,don't cranck longer than 20secs, it probably sounds as though it is air locked,
 
Thanks for the reply,

I'm waiting for my brother to put his TD5 back together and he'll give me a jump,

Is there no way of bleeding it after the regulator?

Cheers Huw
 
I looked at this but It doesn't smell of diesel at the exhaust. if it was low compression it should be pushing diesel out the back, and you'd think at least one of the cylinders would have enough compression,

cheers, Huw
 
wouldnt smell of derv
and if 1 is on its way out it can effect it
ive had a few like this to be honest
not a big job to do either
 
If you worked with the gearbox/clutch make sure that the crank sensor is well plugged back or it was not damaged, read engine speed with nanocom while cranking and if you dont get above 300 change the sensor, if the crank signal is not ok the ECU will not open the injectors that's why there's no diesel smell ... voltage is important to be strong as well, also try to bump start it too if no joy, firget about immobiliser issues, remember: immobilised = no cranking
 
sierrafery said:
If you worked with the gearbox/clutch make sure that the crank sensor is well plugged back or it was not damaged, read engine speed with nanocom while cranking and if you dont get above 300 change the sensor, if the crank signal is not ok the ECU will not open the injectors that's why there's no diesel smell ... voltage is important to be strong as well, also try to bump start it too if no joy, firget about immobiliser issues, remember: immobilised = no cranking
Click to expand...
do you not mean jump start?
 
Cheers for the reply, I know it's run since the gearbox work, but I'll check the sensor hasn't moved and I'll try the nanocom engine speed. Think I'll have to talk my brother into bump starting it,
 
OK, so I've jumped it from my brothers disco, the engine RPM was 270 on the Nanocom and the battery voltage was 11.3. I've heard that the voltage shouldn't drop below 10V and that it won't fire below 300rpm, is that right?
cheers,
Huw
 
Huw3750 said:
OK, so I've jumped it from my brothers disco, the engine RPM was 270 on the Nanocom and the battery voltage was 11.3. I've heard that the voltage shouldn't drop below 10V and that it won't fire below 300rpm, is that right?
cheers,
Huw
Click to expand...
did it fire? i take it that it didn't?
 
No, afraid not. The strange thing was that it was cranking really really quick, but the nanocom was only showing 270rpm, thinking of changing the TDC sensor?
 
Unscrew the coupler at the FPR a little bit.. crank the engine over and see if diesel sprays out for the coupler.
If it does I would remove the large hose from the inlet manifold and spray some brake cleaner in there while someone turns the engine over..
This will help if the system is air locked.
My td5 was air locked last night, purged 3 times with no joy. A little brake cleaner and it fired up lovely.
 
Really good news, it started .. YAY.

I went back over everything and found a major balls up, two, yes ladies and gents, two of the fuel filter pipes weren't pushed on all the way, so its probably been sucking air every time I purged and cranked it..
My brothers disco is back together and working so I hooked up the batteries and started it. After that I removed the return line between the cooler and the pump and put a bottle under the port. As I suspected it was full of air. As its a 10P it doesn't have the external pipe back from the injectors to the pressure regulator (15P), so I had to shift the air lock in the injector fuel loop by jacking up the back of the disco, which would shift any air towards the regulator at the back of the engine, after cranking it twice the rpm shot up from 260 to 500 on the nanocom, two more cranks and two purges, then it started.. Yay

thanks for the help all,

Huw
 

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