SteelMark

Member
Hi guys,
I have what I think are 2 problems - maybe related. About 1 month ago my '06 110 TD5 started slowly losing power - originally I thought it was the turbo as it had problems getting over 70mph on the motorway. I'm retired and dont use the car much so I put it off as my son was between cars and the landy was our only source of transport. Anyway 2 weeks go by and my son used it to drive to his house in town. He called to say that the car was now creeping along.... getting slower and slower. Finally conked out in a carpark 30 miles away.... By the time I got there I knew instantly that the fuel pump wasnt working (no noise). Towed it home, dropped the tank (I replaced the fuel pump 1 year ago) and tested the electrical connection at the pump before getting it out. I got voltage across 2 terminals so - cursing my luck and cheap chinese parts I ordered another pump from England - I live in ROI... waited a week and it arrived today. I connected the pump outside of the tank......and nothing! Testing the electrical connection again I noticed only 10.95 volts but the battery reads 12.45v. So bad connection somewhere I thought. I hard wired some thick electrical cable back to the battery directly, touched the 2 poles on the pump.....nothing! What am I doing wrong? I checked the fuel pump relay, it clicks as it should and has 12.45v in although looks a bit battered so I will order a relay and holder - but thats another weeks wait.
I cant investigate the power loss until the pump's running, I bought a spare MAF in anticipation because its a cheap part but I'm stumped on the pump.....ideas?
 
Hi guys,
I have what I think are 2 problems - maybe related. About 1 month ago my '06 110 TD5 started slowly losing power - originally I thought it was the turbo as it had problems getting over 70mph on the motorway. I'm retired and dont use the car much so I put it off as my son was between cars and the landy was our only source of transport. Anyway 2 weeks go by and my son used it to drive to his house in town. He called to say that the car was now creeping along.... getting slower and slower. Finally conked out in a carpark 30 miles away.... By the time I got there I knew instantly that the fuel pump wasnt working (no noise). Towed it home, dropped the tank (I replaced the fuel pump 1 year ago) and tested the electrical connection at the pump before getting it out. I got voltage across 2 terminals so - cursing my luck and cheap chinese parts I ordered another pump from England - I live in ROI... waited a week and it arrived today. I connected the pump outside of the tank......and nothing! Testing the electrical connection again I noticed only 10.95 volts but the battery reads 12.45v. So bad connection somewhere I thought. I hard wired some thick electrical cable back to the battery directly, touched the 2 poles on the pump.....nothing! What am I doing wrong? I checked the fuel pump relay, it clicks as it should and has 12.45v in although looks a bit battered so I will order a relay and holder - but thats another weeks wait.
I cant investigate the power loss until the pump's running, I bought a spare MAF in anticipation because its a cheap part but I'm stumped on the pump.....ideas?

Are you connecting to terminals 1 (live) and 4 (ground) on the fuel pump, the others 2 and 3 are for fuel gauge.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...amsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&espv=1&ie=UTF-8
 
Are you connecting to terminals 1 (live) and 4 (ground) on the fuel pump, the others 2 and 3 are for fuel gauge.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=t...amsung&sourceid=chrome-mobile&espv=1&ie=UTF-8
Hi Scooby
I must have measured across 1 and 2 and got 12v... across 1 and 4 I got nothing! And now if I bypass everything and wire from the battery to 1 and 4 both pumps run.... Thanks for the reminder on pinouts. Now I've just got to find the break in my loom. BTW although I feel the pump relay click in IGN2.... it clicks again 30 secs later is that because it detects an open circuit? Now I can narrow it down to bad earth or either bad ECU feed to the relay or bad IGN2 (permanent battery) feed to the relay?
 
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Hi Scooby
I must have measured across 1 and 2 and got 12v... across 1 and 4 I got nothing! And now if I bypass everything and wire from the battery to 1 and 4 both pumps run.... Thanks for the reminder on pinouts. Now I've just got to find the break in my loom. BTW although I feel the pump relay click in IGN2.... it clicks again 30 secs later is that because it detects an open circuit? Now I can narrow it down to bad earth or either bad ECU feed or bad IGN2 (permanent battery) feed?
......And of course the earth is fine (easy fix) so its the positive feed from the relay - which I dont have a replacement for.......... can I bypass the relay temporarily?
 
People have put a link in the relay as a temporary measure to get on the go, i am sure you can also swap it with one of the other yellow relays to test the pump and get going.
 
Problem solved - thanks for the help.... The +ve wire from relay to pump was broken - chafed between the tank and the bottom of the tub. It must have gotten caught when I replaced the pump last year, I remember struggling to get the tank back up at the time. Not sure yet whether that was the cause of my power loss weeks ago - will test drive now and revert if I need more help. Thanks for getting me on track Scooby.

Test run was fine wire not completely cut so I guess the pump worked intermittently until it failed completely.
 

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