As the title says does anyone know the full Geo specs for the TD4.

Toe/camber/castor etc front and rear.

Will they be the same as a pre 2001 model like the L series diesel.

Are the suspension parts and setup the same?

Found this the other day while I was looking for the same info. Might give you something to have a look at while someone comes up with a more definitive answer !!

Land Rover Workshop Manuals > Freelander Service Procedures > GENERAL DATA > Steering

The specs are in the Haynes manual.

Front...
camber... -0deg15 +/- 0deg45
castor... 3deg25 +/- 1deg
kingpin inclination... 12deg18
total toe out... -0deg14 +/- 0deg14 (I have read elsewhere that the optimal is -0deg10 )


rear...
camber... -0deg30 +/- 0deg45
thrust angle... 0deg0 +/- 0deg6
total toe in 0deg20 +/- 0deg15

Should be measured with vehicle unladen.

As far as I know, all mkI freelanders are the same.

oooh, just clicked that link above, its pretty handy stuff.

When I was doing my tracking I looked online and found different sites quote different values. It seems LR changed the spec over the years.

Hmmmmm I wonder if this has vcu issues......had mine done......and still have a pull to the left.......dont think its camber of the road related either......will post up my geo results when I have time to access pc......all in spec apparenty....

Hippo......did you get geo print out you could post up......
I presume they should be roughy the same between engine models?

Yes I have a print out I will put up tomorrow. After seeing many different resources with different values I set mine to the figures my main dealer printed for me when they did mine. From memory I think LR changed the values over the years to make the car feel betterer to drive. If owners didn't like the handling then main dealers could change the wheel alignment set-up to an alternative LR made available.

Geo results as promised......

Found it:


DSCN4273 rXDAxtA


DSCN4276 q52oKaS

And how does it drive? Any pulls etc..


You seem to have a lot of negative camber on the osf and not much on the nsf... the cross camber is quite large same on the back, cross camber is 30 what ever the units are ...........did the dealer say it was all in spec?

Drives perfect. Felt like a new vehicle. Dealer said it was ok. As long and it's correctly balanced and weighted if out, and measures within tolerance then it's ok. Naturally middle point of spec is best but they were happy making sure it was within limits. Will put up some more info in a bit. Finishing the hipporamps at the moment.

Hmm thats interesting...my results on paper seem quite central a lot more so than your results.....yet I still have a pull to the left......need to swap tyres around to see if this pull changes etc.......if not I will need to question the results with the alignment center...

Somethings not right...

You have swapped the tyres round haven't you? Swap tyres left the right and see If the pull swaps sides?

Oops just read your last post properly.
My white Freelander had a pulling issue, I did the tracking over and over again because I wanted it perfect before I put new tyres on it, never spend so long on tracking!no matter how much I tweaked it it still pulled a little. In the end I said that'l have to do and put new tyres on it, then realised how much tyre pull I had!
I didn't bother swapping the tyres round because it was getting new ones

Yep swapping the tyres round is my next port of call.....im a bit dubious thou....but will try it anyway.

jedi said:

Hmm thats interesting...my results on paper seem quite central a lot more so than your results.....yet I still have a pull to the left......need to swap tyres around to see if this pull changes etc.......if not I will need to question the results with the alignment center...

Somethings not right...

Click to expand...

If they have set it up on a machine like the main dealer has and done it correctly then it should work ok. The printout looks the same as mine so I assume they have the same machine.

First job is to look for bent things. There's no point setting it up if something is bent. The bent bit should be resolved first. Mine was done by a main dealer. It cost £100+vat which was discounted from £150+vat due to them forgetting to do it. It went in for a service and 4 wheel alignment + steering geometry and they forgot to pass it to the accident repair section who have the rig. They said it takes about 40 mins to set-up on the rig and similar to make the adjustments and reassess.

As you know Freelander's have more adjustable options than cars. The front wheels are set by the rear wheels on a normal car like a Fiesta. The same happens on a Freelander, but the Freelander's rear wheels are also adjustable. Some years later I needed to have it done again. Most garages don't have rigs to do the work to set-up all 4 wheels. I was tricked by one tyre fitter who was recommended to do "4x4 laser alignment" which turned out to be front wheel set-up only. I went back but got pushed away and they told me they couldn't do anything. What they did was right and it's my car at fault...

You need to find out if they adjusted all 4 wheels. Mine drove perfect after the main dealer did a complete set-up. I agree my results above are not central but they're within spec and it felt so much betterer when driving home afterwards... It couldn't steer straight by itself. It felt like a different car. They test drove it before and after themselves to see what it was like.

After the tossers had a go I took it to another tyre fitter and they didn't know the correct set-up. We're talking high street band ere. I showed them my above results and they were no good to them. Their book and computer didn't have Freelander measurements. What they were doing was a front wheel only set-up by referencing them to the rears. They did an adjustment which I asked about and I agreed to have a go so they said come back and pay if it works. It didn't but I still went back for a chat and they refused payment. There was nothing they could do. By this time I'd fallen out with the main dealer over me recon gearbox. Operation HippoFix commenced. I searched the web and found different results from the rave disk, myfreelander, haynes and a few others. In the end I bought a trackace

Trackace DIY Laser Wheel Alignment Gauge Car Tracking Save Money Fuel Tyres Tires CO2 Emissions - YouTube

and had a go myself.

A trackace can only tell you the angular difference between 2 wheels. You can then adjust them but this is only referencing each wheel against the other, and not against a straight line down the middle of the vehicle. My rear wheels were both pointing inwards too much, as well as both pointing to the left slightly. This will give a feeling of pulling to the left. You can't offset the front wheels to correct this. Setting the fronts against this will just make it worse. So I used the fishing line method of putting 1 length of fishing line down each side and got the distance front and rear between the lines to be the same. Compare this to a datum on the wheel centre plastic edge and keep checking the fishing line width then checking the datum to wheel and eventually you get the fishing lines parallel to each other and your Freelander. From here a bit of trigonometry on the angles so I knew what mm the wheel rim front should be from the fishing line and a trackace wheel to wheel comparison on rears, then same on fronts, and it was all set-up. Confirmed all measurements again and test drove it. It was perfect again. If you put a fishing line across a metal ruler with mm you can see slight changes on the wheel adjustment things show up easily.

My results above were ok for mine. It's a 2001 v6. LR changed the figures over the years it seems. Not sure why. I do know that if owners complained about the feel of the drive/steering then dealers could set the front wheels to an optimal setting to reduce sensitive steering. Figures were:

0˚10' = 0.167˚ or 0.167 degrees

When reading the measurements it can be difficult to appreciate what they really mean. Note the difference between ' and ˚

2.3˚ = 2.3 degrees

0.01˚ = 0.01 degrees

1˚15' = 1 degree and 15 minutes = 1 degree and 15/60 = 1 degree and fifteen sixtieths.

There's 60 minutes in 1 degree. So 1˚15' = 1.25 degrees = 1.25˚

1˚30' = 1 degree and 30 minutes = 1.5˚

1˚6' = 1.1˚

Also the minus sign or lack of minus sign (meaning it's a positive value) should be appreciated. Minus means in. Positive means out.

The trackace warns to check bush wear. Also sharp braking when positioning the vehicle. This can put the wheels in an odd position. Couple this to potentially worn bushes and this may be a reason why yours may be set-up correct, but not driving proper.

jedi said:

Hmmmmm I wonder if this has vcu issues......had mine done......and still have a pull to the left.......dont think its camber of the road related either......will post up my geo results when I have time to access pc......all in spec apparenty....

Hippo......did you get geo print out you could post up......
I presume they should be roughy the same between engine models?

Click to expand...

If the Camber is out on one side the steering wheel will sit to one side when wheels are streight.

jedi said:

Hmmmmm I wonder if this has vcu issues......had mine done......and still have a pull to the left.......dont think its camber of the road related either......will post up my geo results when I have time to access pc......all in spec apparenty....

Hippo......did you get geo print out you could post up......
I presume they should be roughy the same between engine models?

Click to expand...

Mine did that and it cost me £40! Now got wear on the inside of the fronts

Nitro-Max said:

If the Camber is out on one side the steering wheel will sit to one side when wheels are streight.

Click to expand...

If the track rods are set to different lengths then the steering wheel will sit off to one side, or the wheel has been removed and not put back straight on the splines.
If the camber is out on one side the steering can still be set central.

Yep it was the track rod ends not set even had to do it myself in the end.

Sorry fort the old thread revival but can the camber and caster be adjusted on the Freelander? Just I am going for 4 wheel alignment soon and only toe is included in the price, its extra for camber/caster