FreeNORTHUMBERLAND

FreeNORTHUMBERLAND

New Member
04 TD4, been a great starter and great engine. One morning wouldn't start. Turns over but nothing. No smoke no diesel smell out exhaust. Fuel at rail but low pressure. Gargling noise from HP pump as fuel runs backwards to tank. A multi use OBD reader said all OK. LP pump OK. New filters recently. New battery day before it died ! . I'm coming to the conclusion that freelander MK 1 software and computer just don't work properly. After reading none stop for ten days now it seems like I've got a great engine supplied by BMW then Landrover managed to completely screw the whole thing up with over engineered electricals than don't work properly and never have done. If I get this car working again I'm selling it. Shame because its spotless. Like new. Comfortable and since I converted to 2WD fun to drive.but my faith in this car is now gone. I bought it to get me and grandkids to the lakes..we need to get back !
 
Changed battery and used car all day stopping and statting any times. Next morning dead.. IE turns over but no ignition. No smoke. Not even a splutter
 
A multi use OBD reader said all OK
Click to expand...

maybe? your '04' vehicle falls into the data-reading changes that evidently effect pre-'04' vehicles
i.e. no clue as to exactly when the changes occurred ..
am assuming changes were made to the ecu devices ..
maybe the ecu in yours is like the pre-2004 models ..
just a theory :)

bottom of this page : http://tuning-diesels.com/75Zt/R75faults.htm#g
" YOU CANNOT USE A GENERIC CODE READER ON PRE 2004 DIESELS TO READ OR CLEAR FAULT CODES."

be a few reasons why a td4 would fail to start .. i.e. dead .. no evidence of fuelling attempt from exhaust ..
 
Its going to a specialist on Monday IE someone who has all Landrover diagnostic testing gear. I'll keep you's informed. My money is on the can sensor as that would stop it dead. Other sensors not working will cause hard hot or cold starting and running rough but can sensor is the one that stops it dead..ECU doest get the info needed to fire engine
 
I had a non starter. Could get it running with a spray of easy start.

Cut a long story short it's worn o-rings on the fuel regulator. Does your LP prime and then stop quickly
or keeps priming?
That is a good indicator that it's the regulator.
 
When you turn ignition key the Low Pressure pump pumps for about 15 to 20 seconds. Just like it has done since I've had it. No difference with the time it pumps/primes since it stopped starting. Don't ignore this fact when reading post...fuel at rail but not under high pressure. LP pump malfunction would not chase that. I've had everything suggested. And I mean every single part of the fuel system. Even a suggestion that I replace the fuel filter. Even though in my post it says...ALL filters recently replaced. I'll post on here what the problem is once the specialist has received me of £60 an hour to investigate. Mind when you find out how much the latest diagnostic software is youl understand why he's charging £60 an hour..software £5k so no back street garages will have it. That's why last two garages have been a waste of time..their "solution" is pure trial and error. Replace parts until it works...I don't need a garage for that just an understanding bank manager...
 
Ok. If you have fuel at rail, but not at HP then it could be a leaky injector or the HP pump seals. You can knock up a leak back test kit for less than a fiver. 4 syringes from the vets + 3m of screen washer pipe. If the injectors are leaking back too much then you'll get low pressure in the rail.

I agree the 'trial and error' approach employed by the majority of garages is shocking.
 
Leak back test done..I'll add at this point everything that could be done has been done. First by me at home. I'm a very good mechanic but don't have ramps/hoist. So took to garage. They redid everything I did. Leakdown. Pressure test injectors. You think it we did it..the only thing that has NOT been done is to hook it up to Landrover own diagnostic test gear/software. Used hand held ob2 tester and nothing...no error codes. No resets.. Monday off to garage with Landrover/jaguar/BMW hardware and software. They assure me instant diagnosis..I've heard this twice now from last two garages..some faults are untraceable due to crap electrics used by Landrover. Some wires to sensors are so thin and brittle they snapped when unplugged..Micky mouse. Off roader..try fixing one in the field..can't be done...buy a Toyota and make it home every time...the average back street mechanic is only good for brakes. Exhausts. Serving. Basic stuff that we can do but don't have ramps. Pullers. Compressors etc..garages won't spend the money on software to solve these problems..they are totally out of their depth with ECU problems...I mean fixing them not reading them...
 
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I think you might be right about the cam or crank sensor. Does it stutter at all when turning over?

The fact that you're getting nothing out of the exhaust is a good indication that it's not attempting to inject - so my money would be on a critical positioning sensor.

It'll either be an ecu fault or the cam/crank sensor, the latter of which can fail silently without raising a fault code. Best thing to do is get it on a proper reader and watch the sensor outputs on a graph - anyone with a proper code reader should be able to do that, even if the ecu is showing no codes.

You need to eyeball the ecu inputs and outputs, check its getting the signals.
 
B34R. You right what I think...specialist on Monday with the latest Lanny/jag/BMW equipment..the multi use hand held readers that have been used on it are no use at all..if this is not as you say..cam sensor ECU fault I'll eat my spare wheel..keep you posted to what happens on Monday...
 
What was the out come, or is it still with the garage ? it will be interesting to see if it was fuel or as you say cam sensor thanks for posting
 
Artic2, garage Monday. (Tomorrow) . interesting . yes it will be..my money is on a sensor and the cam sensor at that..fingers crossed its only a sensor for cheap fix. Its a shame because this freelander is great. Bodywork. No dents. Dings. Scrapes. Not even light surface scratches anywhere. Floor pan is just like it left the factory. Better cos its been undersealed twice and all the links painted with hammerite and ALL bushes in great shape. No pets or smokers inside the car so its looking very good for a 2004 TD4, the BMW engine is perfect. New everything from tyres & abs unit to full exhaust sytem. Converted to 2WD with ERG blanked I'm getting 60 mpg on the motorway and is as light to steer as a big car
 
Just had a phone call from the garage. Looks like its knackered seals in the HP pump. I bought a repair kit off eBay two weeks back for a C1 pump. The kit with both sets is seals for all C1 pumps. Cost £16, looks like my very first diagnosis was right...I hope its only the pump seals cos easy fix..all the diagnostics point to pump and nothing else...total repair bill £120. Two hours labour. . fingers crossed nothing else will be wrong with it.. Think I'll drive to the lakes and back tomorrow..got new disks n pads and wheel bearing to go in...this is now a new car..
Clutch. Flywheel. ABS unit. Full exhaust system. Four new snow tyres. Converted to 2WD .EGR blanked (60 mpg ) all filters and oil changed. Unmarked bodywork. Undersealed last month by me twice ! Really thick...all struts smooth hammerited
All bushes good. New brakes pipes throughout. Rubbers too...testing the water for a possible sale.. 9 months not no advisory's..forgetting some things...I'll add later on....its very very nice for a 2004 freelander..TD4. Only 120k....everything even tailgate glass works... Pleasure to drive..nice and light since rear prop was removed..knuckle too..blanking plate fitted. Diff box oil changed at this point..last month...super smooth and fast.. Un- chipped..so no stress on engine...
 
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