Hi, this has only just happened today, all 3 lights as above are illuminated but brake lights working ok.
Thanks, brake lights still working though,is it just as simple as getting a new brake light switch or does it need to be tested to see if it is this, ive checked other threads re the 3 amigos but a litte confused:doh:
Optimus Prime
Well-Known Member
even though the brake lights can be working, the switch can be high resistance. to be honest, it is such a cheap component, and simple to change, it's best to try this first.
9 times out of 10 it cures the problem.
good luck
9 times out of 10 it cures the problem.
good luck
whythehellnot?
New Member
Hiya,
This can be caused by a number of things and hence it's very common to find on a Freelander. Things to check/change:
1. Brake light switch - it's cheap and commonly the cause
2. Check HDC switch connections and that there is 12v between the wires and that switch closes when HDC is on.
3. Check the resistance of the ABS sensors, check that they are all the same and not short or open.
4. Put it on the LR diagnostics computer (~£50) as it could well be that one of the ABS sensors is misaligned or broken. This issue is commonly seen after hitting a kerb or suchlike so if this has happened, it could be worth removing the related wheel and hub and ensuring it's aligned, the abs refluctor ring is clean and straight, etc. One issue with a broken ABS sensor is that they become welded into place so replacing one can be a real pain..
This can be caused by a number of things and hence it's very common to find on a Freelander. Things to check/change:
1. Brake light switch - it's cheap and commonly the cause
2. Check HDC switch connections and that there is 12v between the wires and that switch closes when HDC is on.
3. Check the resistance of the ABS sensors, check that they are all the same and not short or open.
4. Put it on the LR diagnostics computer (~£50) as it could well be that one of the ABS sensors is misaligned or broken. This issue is commonly seen after hitting a kerb or suchlike so if this has happened, it could be worth removing the related wheel and hub and ensuring it's aligned, the abs refluctor ring is clean and straight, etc. One issue with a broken ABS sensor is that they become welded into place so replacing one can be a real pain..
hippolover
New Member
...and I am just about to embark on fitting a front n/s sensor. That is after doing the reluctor ring and shaft two years ago, a front right sensor last year and a rear left just a few months ago. I seem to be going in circles around this Hippo. The switch is fine though - although give it a few weeks once the lights come on again. :doh:
whythehellnot?
New Member
You sound like a pro, Hippolover. Any tips on removing a welded-in sensor or realigning the refluctor ring? It strikes me that a removing tool would be worth fabricating.
hippolover
New Member
I had to carefully drill out the sensor. Dont go right through as you'll hit the ring (Ooh-err). Once you get a good chunk out it collapses in on itself with a little persuasion with a screwdriver then hopefully that cracks the seal and it slips out. Last time I did a reluctor I put a second hand shaft on with one attached. They 'grow' with rust and expand which rubs on the sensor and tears the face off. A gentle rub with a fine file takes them down a bit but watch for cracks which will snap the ring in time. The proper method of changing a reluctor ring is to heat it which expands it, slip it on and allow to cool. Two problems here though, firstly you might not get it in exactly the right place and secondly fiddling with 300*C metal with your fingers isn't comfortable! 2nd hand shaft is easier and less of a head (and finger) ache.
