domino

domino

Well-Known Member
Just went to check the levels etc. Had noticed my replacement(!) was still leaking previously. Anyway, just noticed that quite a lot has been dumped out by this stupid thing to the point I really do need to top up the coolant considerably.

Anyway. How are people bypassing the TB heater? Any pics? Just a wee bit o' u-bend plastic pipe or?

I did search but nothing of note came up re images or what methods were used.
 
wammers said:
Seal it properly it's not rocket science. Hylomar ring any bells. ;);)
Click to expand...

Well, depends what 'properly' is. Using the correct kit doesn't seem to work! Might just give it a bead of gasket sealer too. And duck tape. And superglue. And liquid cement. or weld the fcuker up.
 
Just by passed my TB heater last week, mine too would not stop leaking, tried every sealant going but after 3 new plates I have given up. Dead easy to do ,behind the Air con commpresor is a coolant nipple where one of the TB heater plate pipes comes from, just move commpresor out of the way then remove pipe from nipple that goes to plate all you need to do is then run a pipe from the nipple straight to the expansion tank, you can then remove crappy plate an never worry about it again. Job done in under an hour. I take it you have the Thor engine in yours?
 
Yep - thor engine.

I was going to use some instant gasket stuff to see if that works or get some kind of U bend piece of pipe and bypass the TB that way?
 
You could bypass that way , I preferred to remove the plate and pipe work just so it looks neater plus less places to leak from.
 
You can n just about see what I think is my bypass ? Previously done and a common fit, its just a bit of silicon hose pipe
2015-12-16 17.36.04.jpg
 
domino said:
Well, depends what 'properly' is. Using the correct kit doesn't seem to work! Might just give it a bead of gasket sealer too. And duck tape. And superglue. And liquid cement. or weld the fcuker up.
Click to expand...

Providing the mating surfaces are sound and flat. Hylomar correctly applied with a new gasket will seal it. If it's good enough to seal metal to metal joints on jet engines it is good enough for a Rover V8. ;);)
 
That's the frustrating thing. I was properly anal in making sure the surfaces were nice and smooth and flat before putting the new gasket and plate on.
 
domino said:
That's the frustrating thing. I was properly anal in making sure the surfaces were nice and smooth and flat before putting the new gasket and plate on.
Click to expand...

Make sure all parts are flat and mating surfaces are good clean and dry. Apply a continuous medium coat of Hylomar to all mating surfaces. Throttle body, plate and both sides of gasket. Set aside a leave for 30 minutes to allow solvent to evaporate. Assemble together and slightly nip bolts up, just enough to bring mating surfaces into contact. After a further 15 minutes torque bolts to final setting. It should never leak again.
 
Last edited:
Well, cannae get it anywhere.. or loctite blue so I'm going to have to use some Instant Gasket that I have kicking around for now.
 
Literally none of them had any in stock. Ordered it off Amazon with prime, will be with me tomorrow morning :)
 
wammers said:
Make sure all parts are flat and mating surfaces are good clean and dry. Apply a continuous medium coat of Hylomar to all mating surfaces. Throttle body, plate and both sides of gasket. Set aside a leave for 30 minutes to allow solvent to evaporate. Assemble together and slightly nip bolts up, just enough to bring mating surfaces into contact. After a further 15 minutes torque bolts to final setting. It should never leak again.
Click to expand...

Been looking in RAVE and I can't find the torque values for the three bolts - do you know them off hand at all?
 
domino said:
Been looking in RAVE and I can't find the torque values for the three bolts - do you know them off hand at all?
Click to expand...

If not specifically listed look at page 14 of torque values and use that subject to bolt size.
 
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