Gareth Coe
New Member
If that's the only thing you change - yes.
Lazy Landy
New Member
It works on a points system so yes you can stick in a 200tdi.
Gareth Coe
New Member
Perhaps not. There are points for chassis, engine, axles, running gear, bodywork etc. Some bits have more points than others but I don't know the specifics. Changing any one thing won't accrue enough points but 2 big things might. Anyone out there know how many points for each bit?
discomania
Well-Known Member
Do so and keep it quiet...
Gareth Coe
New Member
Paint the wife and don't tell Shirley Bassey
RemoteRanger
New Member
I'm halfway through rebuilding my 2a on a Galv. chassis, and as far as I'm aware it's fine in that it's just classed as a repair, much like replacing a fuel tank. After all, as long as it's a standard landrover chassis (even if it is galvanised!) and not adapted for coils or anything then there can't be a problem.
By the way I painted mine black. I made one mistake in doing so... make sure you thoroughly degrease it as I didn't realise that you need to. If you don't, you can look forward to the etch primer been severely weakened and white reactive stuff showing through all that black shiny paint
Mind you, once it's gone through the MOT I'm spraying the underside with schultz waxoyl to keep it all looking good.
By the way I painted mine black. I made one mistake in doing so... make sure you thoroughly degrease it as I didn't realise that you need to. If you don't, you can look forward to the etch primer been severely weakened and white reactive stuff showing through all that black shiny paint
Mind you, once it's gone through the MOT I'm spraying the underside with schultz waxoyl to keep it all looking good. 
luggsey
Active Member
Interesting, did you re-register the new chassis number?
As for painting galv, if it's fresh it will have salts comming out of it for ages, better to leave it outside for as long as possible then use a primer "designed" for galv. Done quite a bit of galv painting and have had good results with the hammerite water based primer, their new smoothrite paint dosent cover to well though IMHO.
Also used some commercial Coo-Var last week, didn't read the tin well enough as you can only recoat it within four hours of the first coat! What a bloody mess!
Interesting this, just have to wait and see if cousin lets me have the 2A now!
As for painting galv, if it's fresh it will have salts comming out of it for ages, better to leave it outside for as long as possible then use a primer "designed" for galv. Done quite a bit of galv painting and have had good results with the hammerite water based primer, their new smoothrite paint dosent cover to well though IMHO.
Also used some commercial Coo-Var last week, didn't read the tin well enough as you can only recoat it within four hours of the first coat! What a bloody mess!
Interesting this, just have to wait and see if cousin lets me have the 2A now!
RemoteRanger
New Member
Your dead right, I left mine outside for months to dull and become weathered!
The annoying thing was that I used the recommended primer (special metals primer) but because I never degreased the chassis at all,the primer never got much of a chance to stick properly. In any case I'd use a different make of primer now as I wasn't too impressed with the International one. I have a much more impressive one that works with Teamac paint.
I don't know if it's standard practice but my replacement certainly didn't have a number on it (I don't think any of them do?) but in any case that's fine as if needs be it'll correspond with the chassis no. on the info plate mounted on the bulkhead
Ah well, we'll see...
The annoying thing was that I used the recommended primer (special metals primer) but because I never degreased the chassis at all,the primer never got much of a chance to stick properly. In any case I'd use a different make of primer now as I wasn't too impressed with the International one. I have a much more impressive one that works with Teamac paint.
I don't know if it's standard practice but my replacement certainly didn't have a number on it (I don't think any of them do?) but in any case that's fine as if needs be it'll correspond with the chassis no. on the info plate mounted on the bulkhead
Ah well, we'll see...
matrix16
New Member
The points for any road vehicle is 14 and as you change major components you loose points, if you fall under 8 points you loose tax free ststus and get a Q plate.
The following values will be allocated to the major components used:
Registering a radically altered vehicle : Directgov - Motoring
Hope this helps
The following values will be allocated to the major components used:
- chassis or body shell (body and chassis as one unit - monocoque ie direct replacement from the manufacturer) (original or new) = 5 points
- suspension = 2 points
- axles = 2 points
- transmission = 2 points
- steering assembly = 2 points
- engine = 1 point
Registering a radically altered vehicle : Directgov - Motoring
Hope this helps
Grippa
New Member
Not in this game!
Nice one Matrix, glad someone knew the specifics. Good link, though I didn't realise how close to the 8 I wuz!
Hope me chassis lasts or it's a Q plate fer me!
