I have a 2000 V Reg. freelander which I wouldnt be without but just recently it has been driving me crazy.

Among many problems I have with it my most serious one is the tailgate wont unlock. I have tried locking and unlocking several times, have changed the fuse but nothing seems to make it open. This is quite a problem as I use mine to get animal feed and trying to manouvre 25kg bags through the backdoors isnt going to be much fun. I am supposed to be picking up an animal cage on Wednesday which likewise isnt going to be fun if I cant get the door open.
This has happened before and it released eventually but this time it just doesnt seem to wan to play ball.
Any ideas?

:welcome: Tracy01............ the guys will be along soon with advice........im just the oh... fishal..... greeter

ya poor a litre and a half of petrol inside the door lock mechanism and leave it for 3 minutes

:welcome:

:dnfnoob:.

do you need help in applying advise set out above are ya done yet did it work?:mil88:

Tracy01 said:

I have a 2000 V Reg. freelander which I wouldnt be without but just recently it has been driving me crazy.

Among many problems I have with it my most serious one is the tailgate wont unlock. I have tried locking and unlocking several times, have changed the fuse but nothing seems to make it open. This is quite a problem as I use mine to get animal feed and trying to manouvre 25kg bags through the backdoors isnt going to be much fun. I am supposed to be picking up an animal cage on Wednesday which likewise isnt going to be fun if I cant get the door open.
This has happened before and it released eventually but this time it just doesnt seem to wan to play ball.
Any ideas?

Click to expand...

:welcome2:

Sorry about that Tracey, the tractor boys are out in force tonight. No Freelander is safe.

Serious answer now. When you operate the release, does the rear window drop an inch to ready the door for opening?

Possible answers

Yes but the door doesn't open.

No but there is a short burst of noise from the door.

No, absolutley nothing happens.

Report which applies any anything else you think may help and we'll go from there.

Darmain said:

:welcome2:

Sorry about that Tracey, the tractor boys are out in force tonight. No Freelander is safe.

Serious answer now. When you operate the release, does the rear window drop an inch to ready the door for opening?

Possible answers

Yes but the door doesn't open.

No but there is a short burst of noise from the door.

No, absolutley nothing happens.

Report which applies any anything else you think may help and we'll go from there.

Click to expand...

you could sell it to..

www.DarmainGaylanderDealers.co.uk

snigger

oh - forgot to mention after the 3 mins to chuck a match at the back door and :bolt:

I must say I am shocked to find such odd people on this forum who feel its a great laugh to confuse an already confused person.

I am just glad someone has seen my plea for help as being genuine and not a point to mock. I love my car and because I earn such a pittance cant afford anything 'flashier'.


My problem. The tailgate window doesnt go down. When I try the handle it acts like its locked. I have tried to drop the window from inside but only get a clicking sound. My hubby thinks its connected to the electrics as sometimes the nearside doors dont open when the fob has been pressed 2 or 3 times.


On a slightly different note, I am no stupid woman. I do know some mechanical things AND I drive coaches for a living AND I own a train!

odd?
ODD?
Daft maybe - but not odd.
well - yes, actually maybe odd as well - but its a rool - yu gorra be odd on LZ
and have a thick skin
and have a thicker wallet
(or maybe purse in yo case)


oh - and by the way - the door wont open unless the rear window drops an inch first.

Yo Hubby thinks its connected to the electrics - thats a good start. Try downloading the Rave manwell and reading the theory of operation for the rear window - that mite help.

and pray Minge turns up soon before the rest of the Tratta crowd turn up :behindsofa:

Tracy01 said:

I must say I am shocked to find such odd people on this forum who feel its a great laugh to confuse an already confused person.

I am just glad someone has seen my plea for help as being genuine and not a point to mock. I love my car and because I earn such a pittance cant afford anything 'flashier'.


My problem. The tailgate window doesnt go down. When I try the handle it acts like its locked. I have tried to drop the window from inside but only get a clicking sound. My hubby thinks its connected to the electrics as sometimes the nearside doors dont open when the fob has been pressed 2 or 3 times.


On a slightly different note, I am no stupid woman. I do know some mechanical things AND I drive coaches for a living AND I own a train!

Click to expand...

And live near Merthyr?

Maybe that explains it then:bolt:?

Hi Tracy,

Mad man is actually one of the more saner individuals around here and he is on the case here. When you operate the release handle you actually operate a switch. This signals to the central control unit down by the fuse box to first lower the back window by an inch. The windows drop releases another switch, which in turn is detected by the central control unit to energise the door release solenoid.

Pretty complex to open a door hu?

Your lack of window operation is the key to your problem. Things to try.

If you're lucky the control unit has lost the datum position of the window, hence thinks its fully down and so it can't be opened. Yes I know that sounds daft when there is a switch telling it the window is closed but this is Landrover we are talking about. To fix is to cut the battery off for a good 10 seconds and then reconnect. Be sure you know your radio security code, if you have one, first. Right, what should happen as the battery is reconnected is the controller will attempt to calibrate the window by winding it fully open. Now it should be able to be closed normally and hopefully your door will work again.

This is if you are lucky!!

Another issue that is well known is the window drive mechanism, or regulator, gets itself tied in knots and then dies. To fix is to replace the mechanism. This is where it gets really fun. You can't open the door so how do you get the trim off the interior of the door without undoing the fixings that are hidden by the fact the door is closed? You can't, so you have to pull the trim off by brute force. The next step depends on what you find inside the door....

BTW, You can not open the door at all as there is no manually accessable way of releasing the door mechanism without resorting to a disk cutter. There is an electrical way of doing it though.

Okay, I've typed lots. The next question is where do you want to go with this? If you are going to have a go at fixing this yourself then have a go at the calibration thing first. Then, if that doesn't work then let us know so we can guide you on your quest.

Cheers,

Dave

AW Darmee! Sane?
no need to go that far. Just saner than the intergalactic space pilot and his mutt wud be enuff .


and unuvva fing Tracy - we mite take the ****, but theres lots of good advice as well - just give as good as yu get.

The Mad Hat Man said:

AW Darmee! Sane?
no need to go that far. Just saner than the intergalactic space pilot and his mutt wud be enuff .


and unuvva fing Tracy - we mite take the ****, but theres lots of good advice as well - just give as good as yu get.

Click to expand...

Now, now, MHM. I said 'saner', not sane!

Where is space twonk anyhow, earths in danger of being invaded by tractor drivers. He's in that dungeon again an't he, with Mrs Ming!!

before you go any further, have you checked the fuse for the rear window ?
I assume from your comment about the back doors you have the 5 door, so the ccu isn't worried about the roof being off as in a 3 door ?

there is a fair amount of gallows humour on here, especially where freelanders are concerned. There are two types of people on here, those that have thrown vast amounts of money at their freelanders for many different faults, and those that don't own a freelander.

good luck, let us know how you're going with the tests.

a new OEM window regulator from a main dealer via ebay will be about £230, there are some herbie hide copies on there for a bit less, or have a punt for a second hand one for about £100, again some on ebay, but look for one that offers at least 30 days money back just in case you've bought a wrong un.

Hi Dave,
I disconnected the battery, (dont need to worry about the radio code as this packed up ages ago)left it for a couple of minutes and reconnected. I then locked the car, unlocked it, tried the door handle and the window dropped but not all the way. I can now get the door open but as the window didnt drop properly, when the door is shut,the window doesnt go back into the trim. I suspect the regulator has gone as has the one in the offside door. I dont mind driving it as it now is but when it rains, it'll leak in. And to think I was only looking at replacing it a few days ago with a mark 3.
What should I do now?

Tracy.

Tracy01 said:

Hi Dave,
I disconnected the battery, (dont need to worry about the radio code as this packed up ages ago)left it for a couple of minutes and reconnected. I then locked the car, unlocked it, tried the door handle and the window dropped but not all the way. I can now get the door open but as the window didnt drop properly, when the door is shut,the window doesnt go back into the trim. I suspect the regulator has gone as has the one in the offside door. I dont mind driving it as it now is but when it rains, it'll leak in. And to think I was only looking at replacing it a few days ago with a mark 3.
What should I do now?

Tracy.

Click to expand...

Will the window now lower (and rise) using the dash switch?

Hi Tracy,

Interesting result. Looks like the calibration was out then. Now, when it fails to open, or close, completely, does it just clean stop or is there sounds of mechanical grinding and crunching from inside the door?

If the answer is 'crinching and grinding' then the regulator cable (the most likely cause) is failing. The solution is either to replace the complete regulator, which includes the clamps, guides, cables and the motor as one assembly. This will last well but is expensive. Alternatively you can get a re-cabling kit on E-bay that you have to carefully fit yourself. Obviously you need to determine the cable is the problem and not the motor first.

However, if the answer is 'clean stop' then it is worth trying the calibration trick again. What should happen is that when the battery is connect the back window will open fully without being commanded to do so. You will then need to close it fully from the dashboard or from the key in the back door. If it doesn't do this then it does look like the regulator is the problem.

See how you get on and we can determine the best next step forward. The other question is how confident are you at being able to fix things like this. I gather you are able with a spanner, which is definately a plus when you own a Landrover.

I hope this helps,

Dave

Just in case you aren't armed with the recalibration procedure:

"If the battery has been disconnected, the taildoor glass will need to be recalibrated. If the alarm was armed when the battery was disconnected (or discharged), disarm the alarm after reconnection - the glass will fully lower. This will happen automatically if the alarm was in a disarmed state when that battery was disconnected.

After battery reconnection, fully raise the glass - the taildoor glass is now recalibrated (if the glass is not fully raised, an error 'beep' will sound)."

If when you take the panel off the door, the cable that raises and lowers the window is broken/mangled check this thread
www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/window-mechanism-40092.html