Alc

Alc

New Member
I changed my oil seal on the swivel a couple of weeks ago and it still leaked so today ive had it all off again, cleaned it up and put it all back together with new plates and everything and put the one shot grease in.

It started leaking straight away so on closer inspection i noticed the seal has a gap at the bottom like its to big or something

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370027663.467249.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1370027683.321406.jpg

Its a little hard to notice on the pictures.

What i have tried is loosening all the bolts for the plate and pushing the seal up but it doesnt move. Its like the ball has shrunk "/

Is it needing a new swivel ball?
 
Someone with way more knowledge than me will be along shortly. If you have any back and forth movement from the wheel when it is jacked up the swivel ball is not adjusted correctly. I have never done the job before but this is how i understand it from what reading regarding swivels i have done..
 
don't fill it with anything other than Oneshot.

when you did the seal, how did you measure the preload for the swivel pin??

What make is the seal ****part seals are generally crap.

A swivel ball is a solid lump of chrome plated steel. they don't generally "Shink"
 
If you have no play in swivel bearings then the seal must be at fault

I bought two Britpart seals and had the same problem, they were slightly too big and distorted when the retainer was tightened up:)
 
Ok so i wont put anything else in it.

I didnt adjust anything or measure any preload???, i undid the 7 bolts holding it onto the axle, removed the lot with the half shaft and swapped the seal over then put it back on (not a fun job lol)

And yes its Britpart.... Ya think thats the problem?
 
Alc said:
Ok so i wont put anything else in it.

I didnt adjust anything or measure any preload???, i undid the 7 bolts holding it onto the axle, removed the lot with the half shaft and swapped the seal over then put it back on (not a fun job lol)

And yes its Britpart.... Ya think thats the problem?
Click to expand...

Probably:rolleyes:
 
Defo the Britpart seal. They are cheaper fora reason. Some things you just need to bite the bullet and buy OEM.
 
How the hell are they still in business if their pulling stunts like this?

I wont be using them again, lesson learned :rolleyes:
 
Jack it up, grab top and bottom of wheel and see if there is any movement.

Might be swivel bearings. Mine went causing a new seal to leak as the ball will sit wonky.
 
Brian S said:
Jack it up, grab top and bottom of wheel and see if there is any movement.

Might be swivel bearings. Mine went causing a new seal to leak as the ball will sit wonky.
Click to expand...

If there is movement how will i know if its not the wheel bearings causing movement?

Ill go and check now
 
Ok so there is movement but i think its just the wheel bearing as i can see/feel the brake disc moving?
 
Only just seen this post ill give that a go tomorrow.

Ive just changed the wheel bearings on the opposite side as there was loads of movement and now its all back together there is very slight movement.
Does that mean i didnt tighten the nut enough before putting the locking nut on? (No torque wrench)
 
Alc said:
Only just seen this post ill give that a go tomorrow.

Ive just changed the wheel bearings on the opposite side as there was loads of movement and now its all back together there is very slight movement.
Does that mean i didnt tighten the nut enough before putting the locking nut on? (No torque wrench)
Click to expand...

Early ones had two lock nuts. Later ones have a single locknut and a spacer. I assume yours is the former. When we used to do the wheel bearings on our old Series I usually used to let them bed in for a week or so and then tighten them up a little more once they'd had a chance to settle down. There's no reason why you shouldn't be able to get rid of all the movement in those tapered bearings if they're nice and new. If not that, then it's likely to be the tapered rollers that allow the steering swivel to steer. It's worth replacing them because Mr MOT man will be checking sooner or later as it affects the handling.
 
jamesmartin said:
wheel bearings shouldnt have any movement ,bearings should be adjusted so any play is just removed
Click to expand...

I never use a torque wrench, don't have a big enough socket.

I use the hub spanner with my longest screwdriver and get them as tight as I can, then I back off a tiny bit.

Spin the wheel to make sure it's runs free and silent and check for movement.

Check again after a couple of weeks use and if nessersary repeat tightening process.

The last part I do with the wheel back on.
 
Brian S said:
I never use a torque wrench, don't have a big enough socket.

I use the hub spanner with my longest screwdriver and get them as tight as I can, then I back off a tiny bit.

Spin the wheel to make sure it's runs free and silent and check for movement.

Check again after a couple of weeks use and if nessersary repeat tightening process.

The last part I do with the wheel back on.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I think Haynes says tighten it up, then loosen a quarter turn, then the second nut you do as tight as you can (using a suitable drift on the first to stop that spinning too (with a lock washer inbetween) ).

If you can get yourself a socket, they're definitely worth it. get them for about a tenner off internet.
 
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