mick the builder · Mar 18, 2020

The last time I did an oil change, I know I nipped the sump bolt up too much . You know the feeling when it goes from really tight to movement. Anyway, the oil stains on the floor mean i have to address it. Any suggestions before i start.

mick 1986 · Mar 18, 2020

mick the builder said:
The last time I did an oil change, I know I nipped the sump bolt up too much . You know the feeling when it goes from really tight to movement. Anyway, the oil stains on the floor mean i have to address it. Any suggestions before i start.

Mine used to drip a few drips when it was hot. I applied PTFE tape to the threads last time I changed the oil. It doesn’t leak now.

Henry_b · Mar 18, 2020

Crank it up until it starts to loosen off then back off 1/4 turn..

mick the builder · Mar 18, 2020

mick 1986 said:
Mine used to drip a few drips when it was hot. I applied PTFE tape to the threads last time I changed the oil. It doesn’t leak now.

I'm hoping there will be enough thread to do this.

LeadFarmer · Mar 18, 2020

I replaced the sump plug with a drain plug, basically a valve that you thread a pipe onto to drain the oil, this opens the valve and lets the oil drain out through the pipe into a container. No more gushes of oil down the arm.

mick 1986 · Mar 18, 2020

mick the builder said:
I'm hoping there will be enough thread to do this.

Hopefully. Can you not still buy sumps for it? If so, I doubt they are that expensive. Or take it to a welder and see if they can help?

mick 1986 · Mar 18, 2020

LeadFarmer said:
I replaced the sump plug with a drain plug, basically a valve that you thread a pipe onto to drain the oil, this opens the valve and lets the oil drain out through the pipe into a container. No more gushes of oil down the arm.

Do you have a link?

LeadFarmer · Mar 18, 2020

mick 1986 said:
Do you have a link?

Here

They are expensive now. You also need the hose that screws onto the plug. The plug replaces your standard drain plug, and has a protective cap. If buying, check the size of your existing drain plug as there are two sizes available.

Despite being expensive, every time I drain the oil from my Defender I'm grateful for having it.

mick the builder · Mar 18, 2020

mick 1986 said:
Hopefully. Can you not still buy sumps for it? If so, I doubt they are that expensive. Or take it to a welder and see if they can help?

Theres a temporary fix for core plugs I saw . It's like 2 rubber bushes with a bolt through the middle. You squeeze one bush into the hole and as you tighten the bolt, the rubber expands and squeezes either side of hole.

Flossie · Mar 18, 2020

Helicoil or do what I did and weld a 1/2" steel boss in its place then you can fit a ball valve for clean oil changes. Get the boss first then take the sump with the boss
to a competent welder. You can screw in a 1/2" hose tail into the 1/2" ball valve with some garden hose over it and drain easy.
Edit- change all the above 1/2" to 3/8" ,
1/2" is a bit big, I'm fairly sure I used 3/8" thinking about it.
I then used a male/female 90° elbow (3/8") into the sump boss with the ball valve attached to that elbow. The ball valve is then running parallel to the sump and horizontal. I screw a 3/8" plug into the ball valve to keep dirt out of the internals and a back up incase the ball valve decided to fail (unlikely).
At oil change time I remove the plug and screw in the hose tail with the garden hose on and open the ball valve.

mick the builder · Mar 18, 2020

Flossie said:
Helicoil or do what I did and weld a 1/2" steel boss in its place then you can fit a ball valve for clean oil changes. Get the boss first then take the sump with the boss
to a competent welder. You can screw in a 1/2" hose tail into the 1/2" ball valve with some garden hose over it and drain easy.
Edit- change all the above 1/2" to 3/8" ,
1/2" is a bit big, I'm fairly sure I used 3/8" thinking about it.
I then used a male/female 90° elbow (3/8") into the sump boss with the ball valve attached to that elbow. The ball valve is then running parallel to the sump and horizontal. I screw a 3/8" plug into the ball valve to keep dirt out of the internals and a back up incase the ball valve decided to fail (unlikely).
At oil change time I remove the plug and screw in the hose tail with the garden hose on and open the ball valve.

Female thread ?Have you a link for the steel boss?

Stanleysteamer · Mar 18, 2020

Had this happen on wifey's Pluriel. Took the sump off and got an engineering company to drill it out and tap a bigger hole. Then fitted a bigger plug, made sure I copperslip it every time I have to take it off. Twas cheaper than buying the f off big drill bit and tap. I went shopping for an hour it was done in that time.
Could you not simply do that? Cheaper than a new sump!

johnlad · Mar 19, 2020

On my td5 defender I bought a kit from Ebay that contained new plugs of various sizes along with the correct taps and drills to re cut a thread. All worked well and did it in situ.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252571370222
Something like this.

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2020

johnlad said:
On my td5 defender I bought a kit from Ebay that contained new plugs of various sizes along with the correct taps and drills to re cut a thread. All worked well and did it in situ.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/252571370222
Something like this.

There what I'm looking at on the tube.

Stanleysteamer said:
Had this happen on wifey's Pluriel. Took the sump off and got an engineering company to drill it out and tap a bigger hole. Then fitted a bigger plug, made sure I copperslip it every time I have to take it off. Twas cheaper than buying the f off big drill bit and tap. I went shopping for an hour it was done in that time.
Could you not simply do that? Cheaper than a new sump!

I may do that, if I can find a decent firm out here. Thought of just getting a nut welded over the hole then use bolt and copper washer.

Flossie · Mar 19, 2020

mick the builder said:
There what I'm looking at on the tube.

I may do that, if I can find a decent firm out here. Thought of just getting a nut welded over the hole then use bolt and copper washer.

You could do that and that's the same work as using a 3/8" BSP boss except you won't be able to easily fit a drain valve. I can weld, I have a welder and , at the time, access to free BSP fittings so was a no brainer for me.
Cost me nowt.
Sorry I can't do links to a boss but I'll see if I can find one and screen shot it.
Female= internal threads
Male= external threads.

Flossie · Mar 19, 2020

This may take me a while

3/8" BSP socket in steel, drill out the sump so one of these will fit and weld it in or cut it in half and weld it over the old plug hole.

mick the builder · Mar 19, 2020

Flossie said:
This may take me a while
3/8" BSP socket in steel, drill out the sump so one of these will fit and weld it in or cut it in half and weld it over the old plug hole.View attachment 203252

That's what's I was thinking, been a while since I did plumbing and forgot the names of fittings. So, weld on 3/8 female bsp boss, 3/8- 1/2 male - female ,elbow . Ball valve, 1/2" female end cap?
Did you mig weld it?

Flossie · Mar 19, 2020

Male/ female 3/8" BSP elbow screwed into the welded on bit.

Flossie · Mar 19, 2020

Ball valve into the elbow

Flossie · Mar 19, 2020

3/8" BSP to 1/2" hose tail which will take easily available 1/2" garden hose.

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Think outside, no box required.

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