Bobsticle

De Villes Advocaat
its starting to get on mi wick a bit now.

Looking at the front of Henry when the wheels are pointing forwards, it looks like the bottom of the wheels are angled inwards. The top of the wheels stick out further than the bottom.
Now I think I understand toe in and how to adjust the amount they point inwards/outwards by winding the ball jointy things in and out. What I don't know is how much the wheels are supposed to lean vertically and how the hell you correct them.
Before you ask, the chassis is god knows what, the springs a diabolics and the wheels are big uns off a modernerer defender but not daft wide ones. Oh and the axle I'm sure is 2a.
When the wheels are turned the angle gets even worse and looks like flamin rickets.
Should I be worried. Seems to drive ok but noticed a bit of tyre squeal today on a smoov corner.
 
Mine is not like that. Compo is a series 3 lwb station wagon on its original chassis and axels but it has the modern defender wheels too. When I got him the wheels were all over the place, it was impossible to drive in a straight line. I replaced all the ball joints and mucked about with the adjustment on the steering box. I'm still not 100% happy cos it's a bitch to turn at low speed. But, the top of my wheels are as far apart as the bottoms. If yours steers Ok, I wouldn't be too concerned, triumphs of the 60's and early 70's used to have wheels where they stuck out at the top.

Col
 
I'm pretty certain they shouldn't have camber, especially negative (top out) camber. Dunno why they would or what would make it happen, but I'd check the swivel and wheel bearings and fittings and the axle tube for bending!
 
Paul, negative camber is top out? I don't think so

So your land rover hs postive camber, probably because the swivels/ball joints call them what you will are done in, the more leaning when you turn the wheels is because you have castor, castor is good, the wheels are supposed to turn on an axis which is not vertical

Jack the front up and grab hold the top n bottom of the front wheels and try an wobble um
 
If you get lots of wobble get some one to apply the brakes whilst you do the test again. If the wobble gets less check and adjust your wheel bearings.
 
I just rebuilt my axles with new swivels, bearings, seals, kingpins, bushes etc etc and they do stick out a little at the top, I think (hope) this is meant to be the case
 
its starting to get on mi wick a bit now.

Looking at the front of Henry when the wheels are pointing forwards, it looks like the bottom of the wheels are angled inwards. The top of the wheels stick out further than the bottom.
Now I think I understand toe in and how to adjust the amount they point inwards/outwards by winding the ball jointy things in and out. What I don't know is how much the wheels are supposed to lean vertically and how the hell you correct them.
Before you ask, the chassis is god knows what, the springs a diabolics and the wheels are big uns off a modernerer defender but not daft wide ones. Oh and the axle I'm sure is 2a.
When the wheels are turned the angle gets even worse and looks like flamin rickets.
Should I be worried. Seems to drive ok but noticed a bit of tyre squeal today on a smoov corner.
Put them axles & wheels back on the Bus you BORROWED them from ! :D:D:D:D:D:D
 
It is possible to put the swivel housing on the wrong way up and this will result in some funny angles.
 
New balls last year. But I did em. :oops:
Followed the instructions on the box and everything. Even got out mi fishing balance for the shimmin. Funny enough the MOT before it said loose balls.
But he put it on the next one as well, after I had replaced. Its now due another one so will obviously be giving the wheels a rattle before I go.
The 'camber' (oo hark at her gerin all thechincul) dont seem to have changed any, He's always been twine toed and a knock kneed.
 
I just rebuilt my axles with new swivels, bearings, seals, kingpins, bushes etc etc and they do stick out a little at the top, I think (hope) this is meant to be the case

Its negatively leaning positive camber o_O I thought everyone knew that for gods sake:rolleyes:

:p:p
 
It is possible to put the swivel housing on the wrong way up and this will result in some funny angles.
:eek::eek::eek::eek:

From memory you have to nail the stick bit on from the top so the bearing bit is at the bottom.
Dont think you can.
 
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Camber angle should be zero. Top leaning out is positive camber. Top leaning in is negative camber.
 
Camber angle should be zero. Top leaning out is positive camber. Top leaning in is negative camber.
Well it aint..................... So what do I do..................:(

I have noticed that the steering wheel has crept round a bit. I know this because two years ago it was straight and I cant get it off. Now its a few degrees out when traveling straight so the whole things obviously scrap and I'm off to set fire to it. :mad::mad::mad:
 
Well it aint..................... So what do I do..................:(

I have noticed that the steering wheel has crept round a bit. I know this because two years ago it was straight and I cant get it off. Now its a few degrees out when traveling straight so the whole things obviously scrap and I'm off to set fire to it. :mad::mad::mad:
Check swivel hub bearings for wear. Renew as required. Then track it, then adjust drag link to centre steering wheel. There is no camber on Land rover live axles. Must be checked for on level ground, obviously if the axle is articulated one wheel will appear to lean out and the other will appear to lean in. Body lean could also give this impression.
 
Right, I aint going in there without the just in cases, so I have ordered a pair of bearings, a pair oif railcos, thrust washers and one shots.
I have some shims already.
Got a fancy steering damper whilst shopping anorl. Be fun welding that on...............:D
 
First off, can you not post some pictures, so people can see the extremes of what you are saying?

Second, might it be worth taking it to a tyre shop and getting a full laser alignment check done. They should have the stock specs and people able to accurately tell if yours differs or not. And if something is amiss, then they may notice it.

Third, not sure on your exact setup, but if it's lifted via aftermarket springs and/or shackles, then you should find the diff nose will be pointing in a slightly different direction, this will have an affect on the relative caster/camber of the wheels when at their normal ride height.
 
Check your tracking. With a wheel slightly turned in, it gives the impression that the top of the wheel is sticking out. This might also account for your steering wheel change of position. Check everything is tight and ball joints not slipping on threads etc. You can have a situation of 'tracking out on turn - in' eg. One wheel turns harder when you steer. I think this can be adjusted on the drag link. I would resist pulling hubs apart until the simple stuff is exhausted.
 

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