Andy Warren

Andy Warren

Well-Known Member
Full Member
Hi all, does any body know if the inner track rod bushes are available separately ? I know LR only sell the whole steering rod but having just put new Lemforder ball joints on I don't want to replace the whole thing.
After replacing the dampers all round, lower arms & tyres I want to do those bushes before I get it tracked.
Many thanks in advance.
 
IIRC the inner track rod bushes are bonded into the inner rod end rather than pressed in. I understand where you are coming from as the lemforder kit is good quality, but pricey. Sadly, however, it's almost as cheap to buy the whole shooting match, a couple of years ago I was only ~£35 a side for complete beck & borg inner, adjuster and outer assemblies, yet you're looking at £29 just for the inner. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334358455528
 
Jayridium said:
IIRC the inner track rod bushes are bonded into the inner rod end rather than pressed in. I understand where you are coming from as the lemforder kit is good quality, but pricey. Sadly, however, it's almost as cheap to buy the whole shooting match, a couple of years ago I was only ~£35 a side for complete beck & borg inner, adjuster and outer assemblies, yet you're looking at £29 just for the inner. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334358455528
Click to expand...
Hi, the p/no for my year is (04) QFK000070 for R/H & QFK000080 L/H, not sure but the one in the link might be for earlier models ? Don't know if there's a difference but this is the mob I got my front springs from & it turned out they only fit models upto 2000 & when I pointed out their listings are wrong & asked for the correct ones or a refund they refused because it was "outside their 30 day return period" so I won't be buying anything from parts in motion again.
 
The inner track rod bushes arrived today (ordered 30/4:rolleyes:) so hopefully I'll get a chance to fit them this weekend.
Does anyone know if these are bonded in somehow as @ Jayridium suggests if so would it be just contact adhesive ? Many thanks.
20220512_121318.jpg
 
Nodge68 said:
They are pressed in, so they're held in by friction. ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks for that. I've cracked the E18 bolts just now but it's pretty awkward/tight for space & I'm going to have to move the coolant hose out of the way (from underneath) to get the bolts out any further so job for the weekend :rolleyes:.
 
I looked for bushes for ages but couldn't find any so replaced the arms, but I can confirm that you can get them off by doing as @Nodge says by manipulating the steering to get enough room. No need to remove pipes etc.
 
Last edited:
I did the track rod bushes today (steering to one side worked a treat, thank you). Bolts were easier to remove from underneath I found,perhaps I've got short arm & deep pockets :D. Once the track rod was off the rack I unscrewed it from the adapter (which I marked & counted the turns off) in the ball joint rather the risk damaging the boot on the new ball joint splitting it. The bush(es) came out & went back in easily & to be honest weren't as bad as I thought :rolleyes:.
Booked in Thursday for 4 wheel tracking in the meantime I'll replace the o/s rear window regulator 2nd one in 5 yrs:mad: ho hum.
20220517_120750.jpg
 
Had it tracked today, left rear camber is out like it was when I had it done last time but as it's non adjustable there's not a lot can be done. Having said that I've got a set of the Powerflex camber adjust bolts for the rear kicking about. Has any body tried them/ do you think it's worth giving them a try ?
20220519_112302.jpg
 
Andy Warren said:
left rear camber is out like it was when I had it done last time but as it's non adjustable there's not a lot can be done. Having said that I've got a set of the Powerflex camber adjust bolts for the rear kicking about. Has any body tried them/ do you think it's worth giving them a try ?
Click to expand...

There's normally sufficient slack in the strut bottom bolts to put the camber in spec, simply by loosening those bolts, and moving the wheel into spec, then tightening up again.
If you can't get it into spec after trying the above trick, then you can resort to camber correction bolts, but they shouldn't be needed, unless something is bent, in which case the bent item should be replaced. ;)
 
Thanks for that, they've told me to take it back when I've done about 500-1,000 miles for a free check (& adjustment if needed) so when I pop it back I'll ask them to slacken the lower strut bolts & give it a tweak to see if it'll come back in spec.
As there's no access to the lower strut bolts with the wheels on, I torqued up the strut top mounts & strut to hub nut/bolts with the weight of the vehicle on the suspension (with axle stands under the brake drums) I presume that was ok ? (As it was the only way to torque up the lower strut bolts):rolleyes:.
 
Andy Warren said:
As there's no access to the lower strut bolts with the wheels on,
Click to expand...

Normally 4 wheel alignment is done on a 4 post lift, so the adjustment locations can be accessed from below, while the wheel angle sensors are on the wheels.
In this situation, the strut lower bolts n nuts can be accessed within the wheels in place. ;)
 
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