Corfewoodsman
Active Member
Hi, I've had my Defender 110 for 23 years and only recently have had to look at the 4 bolt power steering box It was leaking from the top so I replaced the O ring having removed the unit from the vehicle.
Before refitting, I made the adjustment on the bench; setting the locknut at the point of minimal slack on the input shaft.
Paint marks on the input shaft and the steering column linkage were aligned ok when refitting and the wheels were roughly straight ahead.
My worry is whether the steering box was central when I made the adjustment and that I may have created future problems.
With the help of my granddaughter the system has been bled and shows no sign of leaking. There is an audible hum when on full lock, both ways. I can't remember if this was always the case. Both locks are in symmetry.
The play is About 2 inches before the wheels twitch but not loose; there is resistance.
That's the background, my questions are:
Is this normal?
Will I have to remove the box to achieve its centrality and how do I know when it is central?
You probably wonder why I had to remove the box from the car just to replace the top O ring. This was because I ruined the hex on the adjuster and had to drill it out before fitting a screw with Araldite.
Lastly, I thank you for your website and in advance, any attention to my query. I particularly value the contributions of James Martin whose posts have been invaluable to someone as clueless as myself!
Best regards,
Graham
Before refitting, I made the adjustment on the bench; setting the locknut at the point of minimal slack on the input shaft.
Paint marks on the input shaft and the steering column linkage were aligned ok when refitting and the wheels were roughly straight ahead.
My worry is whether the steering box was central when I made the adjustment and that I may have created future problems.
With the help of my granddaughter the system has been bled and shows no sign of leaking. There is an audible hum when on full lock, both ways. I can't remember if this was always the case. Both locks are in symmetry.
The play is About 2 inches before the wheels twitch but not loose; there is resistance.
That's the background, my questions are:
Is this normal?
Will I have to remove the box to achieve its centrality and how do I know when it is central?
You probably wonder why I had to remove the box from the car just to replace the top O ring. This was because I ruined the hex on the adjuster and had to drill it out before fitting a screw with Araldite.
Lastly, I thank you for your website and in advance, any attention to my query. I particularly value the contributions of James Martin whose posts have been invaluable to someone as clueless as myself!
Best regards,
Graham
