So I had a mechanic look at my 110 and he came back with a laundry list of problems, mostly routine maintenance that had been neglected. One issue is “steering arm n/s trackrod end”. The garage isn’t open at the moment and I’m trying to order all my stuff for this. Am I right in assuming that by steering arm he would mean the track rod? I’ve already bought a trackrod end for this but looking at it I’m thinking I would save myself a world of hurt by simply swapping out the whole track rod? Does this sound like I know what I’m talking about?

Steering arm rod is the one from the steering box to the NS swivel housing at the front of axle. The n/s "end" is of the same type as on track rod but I can't remember if it is right or left hand thread.

If one track rod end is worn out how long with the other last?

I just got carried away when mine needed doing and visited these guys: https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product-category/sumobars-for-defender/

When it comes to TRE's I am of the opinion that if you are changing one then you may as well change all three.
This may sound wasteful but my reasoning is:- Even good quality ones are not expensive. If one is worn then the other two could be very close to being in the same condition (if all original or previously replaced at the same time). While you are there with the correct tools it is very little work to replace all three. Having fitted one, two or three TRE's you really need to get the tracking checked* and what is the point of paying to have this done only to have to have it done later if another TRE gives out?

* Going off topic a bit here but tracking always brings in a lot of comments (usually from opposite sides of the argument).
I have my tracking checked & adjusted by a garage set up to do this as I genuinely feel I can tell when it is not correct plus it can have an impact on tyre wear. Normally it is only called for every few years (after carrying out a job like replacing TRE's etc) and in my case most recently this summer after I had fitted a new galvanised chassis. Driving to the garage the steering felt perfectly fine but as expected it was found to be out (no surprise as everything had been replaced with new), when set up correctly however the drive home was a definite improvement.
Other owners are happy to check & adjust it themselves (do a search for the multitude of threads on this subject) and that suits them fine.

Okay, thanks for all the replies. I've just been back under my Defender and realised my confusion; the rod I was looking at only has a trackrod end on one side and the tracking rod is much further back. My drop arm balljoint is buggered so I assume this is why this trackrod end has gone as well. The rod I'm looking at is the one just beneath the steering damper, and from a bit of googling I understand this is called the drag link. The trackrod end I've bought was listed as one for the nearside so I'm hoping that the drag link follows the same thread as the nearside of the tracking rod. What I need to go and find now is a drag link rod. I'll also get the tracking rod anyway as it looks tired and I can get the tracking done all at once and not have to get it done later. Thanks for all the help.

Just to clarify, this is what I need right?
https://www.paddockspares.com/anr2860-tie-rod-tube.html

There is no guarantee which end LH or RH thread is at which side of track rod as rod can be fitted either way. Order both. And have you got or done the drop arm ball joint ?

The drop arm joint can be a tosser, if unsure buy new drop arm, britpart with G on the end is okay, was 35 quid when I did mine a few years ago.
Could not get mine off, so had to sue grinder to split it then chisel apart.

Best to ask your mech what he reckons parts wise to use, let him get parts then it is his problem if it goes tits up.

I’ve already bought a whole drop arm with the ball joint already in. I’ve checked LRWorkshop and it says the drag link trackend is RH thread, which is the part I’ve ordered, so hopefully I’m okay there. I’m probably going to replace that whole joint where the drop arm ball joint, steeei no damper, and drag link meet. I’d rather avoid wasting time trying to separate l rusted parts given the temperature outside right now.

I am concerned about removing the drop arm though. I have a three legged puller, which I don’t think will fit. I have a bearing puller from Screwfix but I’m not sure if that’ll fit either. I also have an angle grinder but I’m worried about cutting too deep and what that will do. That puller tool for this is £50, should I just suck it up and buy that?

Grinder and chisel, you will be surprised how thick that splined bit of the arm is, you never know if you undo the nut and hit the arn it may pop off, but dont bank on it!
Iirc the shaft has a master spline so cannot get wrong?

There are 3 track rod ends 2 are rh thread and 1 is lh thread, get all 3 and replace all three.
I'm lucky in that my drop arm always comes off easy with steel wedges knocked in the small gap between the arm and box itself.
A friend with a disco had a stubborn one though but a 1mm slitting disc and a couple of cuts got it off but we had the box on the bench.

Twinnie said:

I’ve already bought a whole drop arm with the ball joint already in. I’ve checked LRWorkshop and it says the drag link trackend is RH thread, which is the part I’ve ordered, so hopefully I’m okay there. I’m probably going to replace that whole joint where the drop arm ball joint, steeei no damper, and drag link meet. I’d rather avoid wasting time trying to separate l rusted parts given the temperature outside right now.

I am concerned about removing the drop arm though. I have a three legged puller, which I don’t think will fit. I have a bearing puller from Screwfix but I’m not sure if that’ll fit either. I also have an angle grinder but I’m worried about cutting too deep and what that will do. That puller tool for this is £50, should I just suck it up and buy that?

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When you have removed the drag link, lay the whole drag link on the bench or on a plank of wood, and draw round the round back bits of the ball joints, and then you can adjust the new ends until it is exactly the same length as the old one, so you don't have to set the tracking.

I find the best way to get the arm off the box is to undo the nut and remove, and put a long drift down from above, and smack the end of the drift with a club hammer. That shifts them!

Turboman said:

When you have removed the drag link, lay the whole drag link on the bench or on a plank of wood, and draw round the round bits of the ball joints, and then you can adjust the new ends until it is exactly the same length as the old one, so you don't have to set the tracking.

I find the best way to get the arm off the box is to undo the nut and remove, and put a long drift down from above, and smack the end of the drift with a club hammer. That shifts them!

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Most ballpoints but not all, have a dimple or some such in the centre of the plate where a grease nipple would fit, makes measuring easy.
I've wrote that measurement down somewhere if the OP needs it and I can find it...

Flossie said:

Most ballpoints but not all, have a dimple or some such in the centre of the plate where a grease nipple would fit, makes measuring easy.
I've wrote that measurement down somewhere if the OP needs it and I can find it...

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That reminds me of another good point.

As far as I know, it is still possible to get the ball joints with grease nipples, even though they are not standard on a Defender.
And it is worth sourcing them because if you grease the joints, they last for donkeys years!