N

nkbronco

Guest
I cleaned every connection, got starter tested, its ok. Still nothing when
I turn the key, battery fully charged, all other electrical works. I
couldn't get to the negative ground on block, so I bought a new negative
cable and grounded it on the bolt on the emissions pump bracket. I am
stumped now. Any ideas? Thank you.

 
I would try a booster cable from the battery negative to the firewall
next, then to the base of the solenoid. If the body ground is bad, the
ignition sometimes won't work. The solenoid needs a good ground to
fire.

Did you get the correct solenoid? Some of them look identical, but the
side terminal isn't hooked the same so maybe the trigger from the
starter is on the wrong post.

Does the key go to the 'acc' position or the 'run' position correctly
with the dash lights coming on in the 'run'?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nkbronco wrote:
>
> I cleaned every connection, got starter tested, its ok. Still nothing when
> I turn the key, battery fully charged, all other electrical works. I
> couldn't get to the negative ground on block, so I bought a new negative
> cable and grounded it on the bolt on the emissions pump bracket. I am
> stumped now. Any ideas? Thank you.
 
Thank you. Is a booster cable a second cable or something? I thought the
ground I made on the emissions pump bracket didn't look to good. You mean
run the ground from the negative battery post to the firewall, then from
that same bolt back to the negative side of the selanoid? About the
selanoid, it did look the same, but the main posts on each side that
everything goes on were slightly bigger, I had to buy new larger nuts to
put on them to hold everything tight. I did wonder if it was maybe the
wrong one. The shape and number of posts and places of everything looks
the same. Thought about maybe going to the Ford dealer on tuesday for a
different one, I bought this one at schucks. Thanks for the info.

 
I use the booster cable to verify connections. You could be missing the
engine to body ground strap and the engine is rubber mounted.....

You might want to even run the booster cable to the block to verify that
pump connection.

One of the small side posts for the solenoid is the power trigger. It
need power there and a good ground on the base to make the starter
connection. I have seen lots of rusty fenders that crapped out
solenoids, even more dead grounds that caused it.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nkbronco wrote:
>
> Thank you. Is a booster cable a second cable or something? I thought the
> ground I made on the emissions pump bracket didn't look to good. You mean
> run the ground from the negative battery post to the firewall, then from
> that same bolt back to the negative side of the selanoid? About the
> selanoid, it did look the same, but the main posts on each side that
> everything goes on were slightly bigger, I had to buy new larger nuts to
> put on them to hold everything tight. I did wonder if it was maybe the
> wrong one. The shape and number of posts and places of everything looks
> the same. Thought about maybe going to the Ford dealer on tuesday for a
> different one, I bought this one at schucks. Thanks for the info.
 
On Sun, 29 May 2005 16:32:46 -0400, "nkbronco" <natetopgun@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>I cleaned every connection, got starter tested, its ok. Still nothing when
>I turn the key, battery fully charged, all other electrical works. I
>couldn't get to the negative ground on block, so I bought a new negative
>cable and grounded it on the bolt on the emissions pump bracket. I am
>stumped now. Any ideas? Thank you.

Is this a automatic or stick?

 
Hi, it is an automatic. I tried the booster cable thing, didn't matter how
I tried to ground the negative, I still get nothing when I turn the key as
far as the starter turning. The dash lights come on, but the motor and
starter are totally dead. I am thinking about going to the Ford
dealership and buying another selanoid to try and make sure I have exactly
the right one on Tuesday. Don't know what else to do.
Thanks, Nate

 
Ok, I would then try to start it with the shifter in neutral! Maybe the
safety switch has got out of adjustment.

You also 'can' just start it up with a booster cable and the key in run
and the tranny in park. You put the booster cable on the positive
battery post and touch the post on the starter side of the solenoid
where the heavy cable hooks on.

This 'must' cause the starter to spin up. Make sure it isn't in gear
first or it will take off!!!!

If it does not spin up, you have a bad power cable, dirty connection on
the starter, bad starter or no engine block ground. Or a freaking dead
battery!

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

nkbronco wrote:
>
> Hi, it is an automatic. I tried the booster cable thing, didn't matter how
> I tried to ground the negative, I still get nothing when I turn the key as
> far as the starter turning. The dash lights come on, but the motor and
> starter are totally dead. I am thinking about going to the Ford
> dealership and buying another selanoid to try and make sure I have exactly
> the right one on Tuesday. Don't know what else to do.
> Thanks, Nate
 
On Mon, 30 May 2005 03:04:31 -0400, "nkbronco" <natetopgun@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Hi, it is an automatic. I tried the booster cable thing, didn't matter how

Neutral safety switch comes to mind...
 
I also did all this with it in park and in nuetral. Same thing.

 
I tried all this in park and with it in nuetral, same results. Thanks
again, Nate

 
try jumping the starter solenoid directly. run a heavy wire from your
battery positive down BESIDE the starter solenoid + terminal. Then with
the end of that wire firmly attached to a screw driver ( use alligator
clip or similar) use a screw driver that you don't mind getting fried 'cuz
this may burn a corner of it. now very briefly tap the wired screw driver
against the + solenoid terminal. Post results

 
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