oggyv8

New Member
Any ideas appart from lighting a coal fire in the back for more heat in a series 3 please ???????????????????????? :eek:
 
remove the fan from the engine and fit a switched electric fan, then use a radiator muff, seal the doors so they don't let air in
fit a fuel burning heater like they do to lorries and overland vehicles
 
remove the fan from the engine and fit a switched electric fan, then use a radiator muff, seal the doors so they don't let air in
fit a fuel burning heater like they do to lorries and overland vehicles

Use a HALF rad-muff at most..there really is no reason to use a full rad-muff in the uk..believe me..i had same problem and 1st time i did a 50 mile journey i blew the rad and cracked the head..i'd rather have been a bit cold! Get a leccy heater and put it to the fag lighter if necessary...
 
mine worked well..put it in the passenger footwell on full power...toasty! And it was 150watts...
 
Last edited:
I had an old 2.6 Safari the old F reg it was, 1968 I suppose, and it was COLD inside.

I found two Lucas heaters from cars, and ran two 15mm copper pipes from the engine bay under the floor back to the rear passenger space, and plumbed in the heaters, and attached leccy wires. The fans were either ON or OFF - nothing in between.

So the thing had THREE heaters, and I can tell you that was enough but not by much to keep the thing warm inside.

It made a HUGE difference when I fitted a 92°C thermostat .

Best way for FREE HEAT is to use the coolant to heat INSIDE the car instead of wasting good heat (you paid for at the pumps) through the radiator.

CharlesY
 
I'm fitting a defender heater but need some black foam rubber to make up new seals. Any ideas where I could source some?
Thanks!
 
The standard series III heater can work quite well. When I had a Transit 2.5 DI engine in my SIII the heater worked really well. It's not working well now though with a 200Tdi engine installed. I'm guessing the Transit engine providing a good flow of water through the heater. Perhaps the Land-Rover engines rely more on convection to circulate water through the heater. In which case an air lock or pipes connected the wrong way around could stop the heater working. I wander if an electric pump to increase the flow of water to the heater would improve things?
 
i saw a thing once where some one had to two series heater box's, cut them both in half and welded them together so it was an extra big heater box, which could fit two of the radiators in, apparantly if you measure it carefully it will just fit under the bonnet and it doubles the heat.
 
i saw a thing once where some one had to two series heater box's, cut them both in half and welded them together so it was an extra big heater box, which could fit two of the radiators in, apparantly if you measure it carefully it will just fit under the bonnet and it doubles the heat.

but - it there's no heat available within the cooling sysstem ?

having a BIG heater matrix is fine for nice big ineffecient V8s where there's usually plenty of heat available to be extrated - but a big lumpy 20 + year old diesel just never gets worked hard enough to generate the amount of heat people would like

how about towing a 2 ton trailer when it gets cold, that'd warm the engine and you up a bit quicker

the other option often overlookeed in vehicles (but every householder does this) is to do what you can to prevent heat getting out of the vehicle
 
Fit a full size radiator and fan in the back, and run 28mm plumbing pipes back to it.

Many years ago I had an F reg Safari 6 cyl 2.6 I suppose 1968 model, and it was a winter like this. The Landy was like a deep-freeze inside.

I found two heaters that could stand alone, screwed them in place in the back, plumbed three-quarters copper pipes under the floor to them, and some leccy, and that made a difference.

CharlesY
 
I had an old 2.6 Safari the old F reg it was, 1968 I suppose, and it was COLD inside.

I found two Lucas heaters from cars, and ran two 15mm copper pipes from the engine bay under the floor back to the rear passenger space, and plumbed in the heaters, and attached leccy wires. The fans were either ON or OFF - nothing in between.

So the thing had THREE heaters, and I can tell you that was enough but not by much to keep the thing warm inside.

It made a HUGE difference when I fitted a 92°C thermostat .

Best way for FREE HEAT is to use the coolant to heat INSIDE the car instead of wasting good heat (you paid for at the pumps) through the radiator.

CharlesY

Fit a full size radiator and fan in the back, and run 28mm plumbing pipes back to it.

Many years ago I had an F reg Safari 6 cyl 2.6 I suppose 1968 model, and it was a winter like this. The Landy was like a deep-freeze inside.

I found two heaters that could stand alone, screwed them in place in the back, plumbed three-quarters copper pipes under the floor to them, and some leccy, and that made a difference.

CharlesY


Hmm De Ja Vu, getting forgetful CharlesY?
 
Hmm De Ja Vu, getting forgetful CharlesY?


Just making sure someone was paying attention!

One thing that makes a really BIG improvement to heaters in winter is to fit a 92° thermostat in the engine.

Believe me guys, it REALLY helps, and the engine will run better too, possibly a LOT better.

For the small price and effort it's a great fix.

CharlesY
 

Similar threads