My series is having trouble starting it either starts or makes a "clunk" noise when turning the key then turns slowly to the point where repeated attempts kill the battery , I fitted a new starter motor about 2 years ago and no problems up until now. I turn they key , there is some sort of engaging "clunk" noise , when it does start it over runs by about a second , should I replace solenoid before inspecting Motor , also I've noticed that only one of the spades on back of solenoid is used , is that usual ? , Thanks in advance
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
The sole lids are fairly cheap and easy to replace so you have nothing much to lose by getting a new one. If the starter is running on after you release the key, it probably needs ab overall cos the shaft or return spring might be worn or it might be gummed up with oily dirt. You should also check all your earths are making good contacts and all connections are good and tight. I'm not sure what you mean about one of the spades on the solenoid is used, do you mean it is connected to summat?
Col
Col
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Sorry about the typos, I'm trying to type on a tablet and stroke the dog at the same time.
Col
Col
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Could be a bad connection too, or lead or.. well.. start at the battery and take it from there
Thanks all , I'm just charging the battery now , regarding the spade connectors there are 2 , one at the top and one on the bottom , the bottom one has a spade coming from it with wire attached , however the top one doesn't have anything connected to it and I can't see what should be , is this normal?
I had this a few weeks back when it got cold.
1 I cleaned the starter brushes - took it off but not apart - just took the cover off.
2 Remade the battery connections and earths
3 Changed the alternator to a 75A a127.
I did them in that order and looking back I recon the alternator was the biggest difference, my battery (very good condition) was not getting a full charge. Its now sitting 1/2 volt higher which is actually about 20-30% more charge.
First of all put your battery on charge for 24 hours then see what happens. If its all great then its the alternator.
1 I cleaned the starter brushes - took it off but not apart - just took the cover off.
2 Remade the battery connections and earths
3 Changed the alternator to a 75A a127.
I did them in that order and looking back I recon the alternator was the biggest difference, my battery (very good condition) was not getting a full charge. Its now sitting 1/2 volt higher which is actually about 20-30% more charge.
First of all put your battery on charge for 24 hours then see what happens. If its all great then its the alternator.
yep pretty sure its normal, can't remember what the other one is for
Ok , I've got the solenoid off , just want to clarify something, I've put battery directly onto solenoid - and + and it clicks , however I have put a bulb via wires between the post and although it clicks the bulb doesn't light up , I'm assuming it should because if I put the battery cables directly on the posts then it does light up , but why does the landy SOMETIMES start , surely if there's no connection at all it shouldn't , I hope this makes sense , basically it seems there is a click but no connection.
TheMegaMan
Well-Known Member
The larger terminals for the cables that go to the starter and battery, are just a switch, so won't get any supply from whatever you are using to activate the solenoid. You need a suitable supply in series with the bulb, so that when the solenoid closes, you get a proper circuit.
Ok , I'm a bit lost , don't worry it's me not you , when the solenoid clicks surely the two posts should connect , (switch) , therefore if I'm attaching a - and + wire from the post to a bulb and attaching the battery and it clicks but the bulb isn't illuminating then it's the solenoid ( switch ) not connecting on activation ?, Therefore it faulty , I'd that correct ?
Thanks.
Thanks.
TheMegaMan
Well-Known Member
Yeah, as @kermit_rr says, you need to have the +ve supply hooked in to the bulb circuit, too. But beware if you're not entirely sure what you're doing here, as you may well end up shorting out the supply...and if that's a battery, you could burn out the solenoid contacts.
You need to the circuit on the large terminals (I'm calling them 1 and 2 - doesn't matter which is which) to be something like:
+ve ------------ Bulb ----------- Terminal 1
-ve -------------------------------- Terminal 2
If you're just connecting the bulb across the two terminals, then you're not getting a +ve supply to the bulb as the contacts are (or should be!) isolated from the actuator coil terminals.
You need to the circuit on the large terminals (I'm calling them 1 and 2 - doesn't matter which is which) to be something like:
+ve ------------ Bulb ----------- Terminal 1
-ve -------------------------------- Terminal 2
If you're just connecting the bulb across the two terminals, then you're not getting a +ve supply to the bulb as the contacts are (or should be!) isolated from the actuator coil terminals.
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
Just buy a new solenoid and then there are no doubts. They are less than a tenner.
Col
Col
