2

250biodiesel

Guest
Recently bought 88 f-250 4x4 diesel. needs a new starter.
could someone explain to me what the following descriptors of a
starter are talking about:
12v, 13 tooth, 3.6kW, clockwise rotation, offset gear reduction.

what do these terms mean when talking about a starter.
thanks in advance for any help.
biod

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On 30 Mar 2005 00:26:43 -0500, 250biodiesel
<UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

>Recently bought 88 f-250 4x4 diesel. needs a new starter.
>could someone explain to me what the following descriptors of a
>starter are talking about:
>12v,


Starter voltage. Can be 6V (old cars/trucks) 12 V newer cars trucks,
or even 24 volts (usually big trucks and millitary vehicles

>13 tooth,


Number of teeth on the pinion gear. Must match the flywheel tooth
pattern.

>3.6kW,


The power the starter has. 3.6 is a typical gas engine (V-8) starter,
that will draw about 300 amps when cranking full load.

>clockwise rotation,


The direction of rotation. Some starters face backwards (are to the
rear of teh flywheel) while some starters face forwards (are next to
the oil pan, front of the flywheel)


>offset gear reduction.


Gear ruduction is used to allow the starter motor to run at a higher
speed producing more power. Chrysler has used gear reduction staters
for about 45 years at least.

>
>what do these terms mean when talking about a starter.


Buy the right starter for your application. You don't need to consider
any of the above--go to a parts store and ask for a starter for
(describe your truck and engine) and they will fix you up. There is no
such thing as a generic, fits all, starter! You need the right one,
and then you don't have any choice in the above factors (except for a
few aftermarket starters that may use gear reduction, such as Mean
Green starters.)


>thanks in advance for any help.
>biod


 
just wondering are you planning on converting the diesel to burn used
vegetable oil? I was wondering due to you name

 
Up to 20% bio-diesel can be run in diesel engines without
modifications. Running more causes problems with hoses and seals, and
may be harder on the injection pump. Bio diesel will 'dirty' up the
fuel filter more often. Bio diesel has better lubricity over straight
diesel.

FWIW, I run B-20 in my Hummer. And I'm happy.

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 21:21:24 -0500, "be3805" <beau3198@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>just wondering are you planning on converting the diesel to burn used
>vegetable oil? I was wondering due to you name


 
"Peter D. Hipson" wrote:
> Up to 20% bio-diesel can be run in diesel engines without
> modifications. Running more causes problems with hoses and
> seals, and
> may be harder on the injection pump. Bio diesel will 'dirty'
> up the
> fuel filter more often. Bio diesel has better lubricity over
> straight
> diesel.
>
> FWIW, I run B-20 in my Hummer. And I'm happy.
>
> On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 21:21:24 -0500, "be3805"
> <beau3198@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
> >just wondering are you planning on converting the diesel to

> burn used
> >vegetable oil? I was wondering due to you name


That is great you are running on B20, but I must correct you in that
running biodiesel is dirtier for your vehicle and will cause more
problems. That "dirt" is if you have ever run your engine on
dino-fuel and the bio-d actually forces these "dead dino parts" to
push through the system. Yes you will need to change fuel filters for
quite some time after starting the bio-d program, but in the end (or
is that out the end) choosing to run bio-d is a win-win for everyone.
I plan on making bio-d in the garage. If you have a diesel look into
1. converting or 2. or making your own. If your of that persuasion.

thanks for the answer to my starter q. Appreciated.

Now I need to figure out how to get the top screw off of the starter
so i can get it rebuilt. Screw is in a tight spot and I don’t have the
right tool-or even know the right tool
Any thoughts?
thanks again.

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On 10 Apr 2005 20:54:12 -0400, 250biodiesel
<UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote:

>
>Now I need to figure out how to get the top screw off of the starter
>so i can get it rebuilt. Screw is in a tight spot and I don’t have the
>right tool-or even know the right tool


I've always found that investing in tools pays off... SnapOn has some
really interesting tools to do this type of work! (so does Mac,
Kent-Moore, adn other serious (not Sears...) tool houses.)
 
yeh i agree snap o should have the tool you req or if not like our dealer he will get hold of one for you!!
Not being funny but is it not easier and cheaper to get a recon unit???
 

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