I've got to replace the dumb irons on my 2A at some point this year.

I haven't decided yet if I'm going to use replacement sections, which include spring hangers, or cut back to good metal and put plates on one side at a time. They both have their pros and cons and it will depend how far the rot goes back. I know they need more than re-capping but the hangers and rails all feel solid.

Anyway.. if I go for replacement sections, I will lose the original chassis number currently stamped on the OS spring hanger.

Can anyone recommend suitable number punches so I can put the number on the new metal?

And is there anything else I need to consider? (Like some DVLA rule I've never heard of..)

theres plenty on ebay, as long as the numbers legit to the vehicle there are no issues

scottonthefen said:

And is there anything else I need to consider?

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I would photograph the dumb iron with the number on prior to cutting it off. Keep the numbered dumb iron somewhere safe. And keep the receipt for the new dumb irons. Then you have got evidence of no wrong doing if it is ever questioned in the future.

It's a legal grey area. Most chassis manufacturers have stopped stamping to order because you're supposed to get written permission from DVLA in every case having done whatever they feel in necessary to check it's legit.

At the least I would suggest keeping the old cut out number in a safe place.

Just bought a new galvi chassis and the company I bought off said keep receipt etc etc , but if I wanted a stamp , to go on eBay and stamp it myself as James said.
I took a photo of old chassis before I cut it up, so will try replicate that .
Not sure off size, maybe 7mm ??font etc of punches, guess it depends on how genuine you want it to look.

Intersting how this issue is evolving. The chassis number was orginally a manufacturers ID for the vehicle so it could be an a plate fixed on. To avoid tampering it got stamped on but it was an attribute of the vehicle not the chassis so it would be perfectly sensible to re-stamp a replacement chassis to the orginal numbers as these are correct for the vehicle. It now seems to have become a chassis serial number with each chassis carrying its own number. This is how parts work in aviation, every part is uniquely numbered for traceability, but it seems like the DVLA are now applying that approach to chassis. If this were correct LR would have pre-stamped all replacment chassis with unique serial numbers whereas I bleive they shipped without numbers (do correct me someone who knows!). I can't see the DVLA approach working in the long run, there are so many ways vehicles can get rebuilt and we end up where we are now, keeping a 3 " peice of rusty metal with a number on it. While it may work for some vehiles, the reality with a Series is that the engine could out last the chassis, yet while a replacement engine and new number is a formality and a chassis can potetially cost you historic status and reg number. It also fails to take account that the aluminuim body will have a longer life than the orginal un-galv steel chassis but the body number is on a separate plate.

All good points rob1miles, and good advice from others.

If I use replacement sections I will likely re-punch the number, but will also me more prudent about keeping the old metal and receipts etc. thanks to this thread.

It does depend on whether you have a std or a mil chassis, the mil dumb irons are a lot bigger with bigger side plates. Mine were badly corroded but as it was a mil chassis I opted to get it all welded back into shape rather than replace. I bought some 3" sq 1/8 wall tube and had it set into the existing side plates and then plated top and bottom. Rock solid now and it avoided the problems of lining up the shackle holes. There must be a lot of researve strength as I drove it to the welders (slowly!) with only the side plates and no top or bottom to the dumb irons.

Mine is std, but I haven't ruled out repair over replacement yet. There's a lot of good metal still there.