Terryt12

Terryt12

Member
Hi there. I've recently purchased a 2010 Defender Utility Wagon and need some advice re the corroded bolts. Some of the bolts in the drivers side footwell - mainly the ones which hold the seat base in and the ones bolting the under seat compartment to the floor are starting to corrode. I know this is a common problem but am struggling to find the reference to order a stainless set. Can anyone tell me:
- the reference no / name of these
- a link to a company selling stainless version
Thanks in advance
 
Well, what I tend to do is just check the sizes I need and order off the many reasonably priced suppliers on Ebay. I dunno if anyone does a specific kit for what you describe. There are kits around for things like door hinges and that row of bolts along the back that join the tub to the crossmember, but otherwise you just have to work our what you want and order in bits and pieces.

Personally, for high stress safety critical situations, like the suspension or brakes I tend to order OEM bolts, but for just fastening panels together it's less crucial what you use.
 
Be aware of stainless steel fatigue on structural items also there is stainless grades.
 
Well, a lot of Land Rover panels in the cab area seem to be fixed together with self tapping screws screwed into spring clips, so a real nut and bolt might be an improvement!
 
I'm being a bit blonde here (and new to fixing a vehicle myself - last car was a Disco 3 - Nuff said) but how do I measure / workout which one I need? Is it the width of the bolt head or the shaft?
Apologies for being a meff!
 
Head size isn't always directly related to bolt diameter. Most M8 require a 13mm spanner for example but I've seen different sizes.
 
the_wolf said:
Head size isn't always directly related to bolt diameter. Most M8 require a 13mm spanner for example but I've seen different sizes.
Click to expand...

But you SHOULD only have seen unusual combinations in specific uses. There's a Japanese motorbike sizing that uses 12mm heads on M8 shafts for example and it's been copied by the Koreans as they copied the machines.
 
True. I recently removed my starter motor which had M10 bolts with 13mm heads though, replaced with normal M10 bolts with 15mm heads but these were hardly a specific or special application.

To answer the question though M6 is normally 10mm head, M8 is 13mm, M10 is 15mm and so on. Best bet is to get a bolt and nut gauge, its only a piece of plastic or metal. I'll be buying one ASAP as they come in very handy
 
The latest bit of 'fun' that I've come across is from the Koreans.
A 12mm bolt head with a 14mm nut !!!
A 10mm bolt head with a 12mm nut !!!

If they get any weirder I'm going to put my Whitworth spanners back into my mobile tool kit.
 
the_wolf said:
I thought that the whole point of BZP was to not rust?
Click to expand...

all the bolts on your landy will have been zinc'd.. are all yours rust free? ;)

btw if you stick stainless to your alu seat base then it will still corrode if you get it wet.

i just give all bolts i want protected a thin spray/or touch up of paint.
 
A2 are made of 304 stainless which is the standard stuff

A4 are made of 316 stainless which has moly added to make it acid resistant - so marine/food grade - this is the best stuff for external use but is expensive

there are also different strengths ie A4-70 and A4-80

the 80 grade are slightly weaker than 8.8 AFAIK
 
Really? I thought it was built with rusty bolts to start with :p

And ditto, I give mine a good spray with gt85 or similar before I re-assemble
 
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