E

edbell2005

Guest
ahhhhhhh
jus had my 300tdi defender P reg serviced. Had new clutch, new slave cylinder, new airbox mounts, auxilery belt replaced. It always gave a chirp chirp when ever its started from cold (or wet, or windy!)
however jus got it back and its squeakin sooooo incredibly loud now I need serious help!
i'v done th obvious google'd the problem and WOOOW this i NOT a uncommon problem i've gathered!
so far it could be the alternator, bushes, tensioners amongst others.
I dont wanna go spendin a bomb on stopin this squeak (jus spent best part of a grand on its service/repairs). But i cant live with th noise!
any ideas what would be first on the list to get rid of the squeak?or at least get it back to normal??it gets louder with acceleration (it did last night on me way bk home from mells!)its started to draw attention while drivin and not for any good reason!jus noise pollution!!wonder when i' start gettin taxed for that mr darlin!
anyway, if anyone can give some good advice on where to go from here it would be great.
Also seen that water, wd40, NOT wd40, some kinda spray thats used on industrial converer belts, NOT this stuff in a can used on industrial coverer belts have all been advised/not advised on gettin rid/pin pointin the squeakin.
I'm a novice with the internet and a haynes manual

Ed
 
Mine has a squeak which is intermittent and is directly in line with road speed - this means it is after the gearbox and i'm pretty sure it's the rear prop shaft (i've just replaced the front one which stopped a load of other problems, but the back one is pretty ancient too!) - although i fear the Tranny box is on the way out so it might be from there.

Does yours get faster / more frequent with speed? Mine is also only on acceleration. I'm pretty sure it's the propshaft UJ's.
 
I've squirted squeeky belts with WD40 before an not had anything catastrophic happen, a quick squirt to see if it is the alternator or steering pump belt won't do any harm. Before I replaced my alternator pulley regularly used squirty belt dressing on it to stop it from squeeling.
 
I reckon yu shud start by squirtin a 'lube' behind the pulley of each of the components yer serpentine belt drives. My 'squeak' on my 300tdi was the belt tensioner. Start there and work yer way round.
 
it increases with frequency the more the engines revved.
although its a spankin new belt, would a genuine landy aux belt be a good idea?it aint the uj, its defo comin from the belt area.is tweakin with the tensioners and pulleys a piece of **** job?havin jus forked out 800 odd quid, i'm not raring to go at somethin that could do more harm than good (on me landy AND on me wallet!)
 
The belt tensioner is easy enough to change or you can replace the bearings. Kits for this can be found on ebay or paddocks/craddocks cheap. Someone did a fred on this recently but I can't find it! I'm sure Mad Hat Man will be able to dredge it up. Yer best bet is to try and determine which of the pulleys/components which the belt drives is squeaking. I did this on mine by letting the engine tick over and squirting WD40 behind each pulley, until I found out which one was squeaking. Mine turned out to be the belt tensioner. I changed it and it was fine for a while, but i got a cheap replacement part and it now squeaks again but not as bad. Every so often I chuck some 3 in 1 oil behind the nut and washer which holds it on and the squeak stops. Obviously, you shud take care not to get yerself tangled up in the fan if you decide to do this, and dont lather the belt with oil either. If this doesn't work, mebbe its yer water pump? Not sure..
 
9 times out of ten its wear in the tensioner, the nylon washer between the two halves of the tensioner pivot wears and it goes out of line.
A cheap drive belt can increase the problem. If you carefully spray the back of the belt with wd40 so thet it doesnt go anywhere else and it stops temporarily thei tends to confirm the tensioner out of line diagnosis
As suggested above a little lubrication into bearing areas can assist in diagnosis.
A temp fix with the tensioner is get a wiper blade reinforcing strip stainless and slide into gap between two halves of tensioner pivot at the point where you can see that the nylon thrust washer has worn thin(or dissapeared) making sure that everything is clear start engine this should stop squeal If it does then check that belts are running c3entral to pulleys if yesw then cut off about 25 mm and bend over secure with hose clip onto body of tensioner This will work why you order new tensioner. shop arround cos the prices vary a lot HTSH:)
 
edbell2005 said:
lovely jubbly girl, i may brave enuf to have a go at it meself!
Click to expand...

It's an easy enuff job to do believe me! If you do take the tensioner off and replace it, or change the bearings, be careful not to over tighten the bolt that holds it on when you put it back, or you risk shearing off the internal thread (like I did). You'll see what I mean when you remove it. ;)
 
HybridGirl said:
It's an easy enuff job to do believe me! If you do take the tensioner off and replace it, or change the bearings, be careful not to over tighten the bolt that holds it on when you put it back, or you risk shearing off the internal thread (like I did). You'll see what I mean when you remove it. ;)
Click to expand...

is that the internal thread of the tensioner?or the internal thread of the component that the tensioner presumably bolts onto?or the thread running through both!

what did ya do girl?
 
edbell2005 said:
is that the internal thread of the tensioner?or the internal thread of the component that the tensioner presumably bolts onto?or the thread running through both!

what did ya do girl?
Click to expand...

Its the internal thread of the component the tensioner bolts onto, which if I remember correctly, is the engine caseing. The tensioner has a 'lug' on it which stops it moving, then the bolt just goes thru it and screws into the caseing. When I buggered mine up, I used 'no-nails' to stick the bastid back in, (much to the amusement of everyone on here!). But, I have to say, I was at work at the time, and I considered it to be an 'emergency roadside repair' which got me home! And some, cos its still in place now! And that was a year ago nearly. I mite have trouble when It eventually breaks again tho! Will consider doing a 'proper fix' with a helicoil or summat when the time comes!
 
HybridGirl said:
Its the internal thread of the component the tensioner bolts onto, which if I remember correctly, is the engine caseing. The tensioner has a 'lug' on it which stops it moving, then the bolt just goes thru it and screws into the caseing. When I buggered mine up, I used 'no-nails' to stick the bastid back in, (much to the amusement of everyone on here!). But, I have to say, I was at work at the time, and I considered it to be an 'emergency roadside repair' which got me home! And some, cos its still in place now! And that was a year ago nearly. I mite have trouble when It eventually breaks again tho! Will consider doing a 'proper fix' with a helicoil or summat when the time comes!
Click to expand...

ur pretty knowledgable for a wurmen, girl.
I may come back to you for help!
 
Having said all that, there shud just be a nut on the end of the shaft i'm talking about, which yu undo. The problem with mine was the nut had been done up so tight, the shaft/bolt thingy had sheared off the thread inside the engine caseing, so I couldn't undo the nut. The whole thing came out. So you shud'nt have any bother just removing the nut. The bolt thingy shud remain in place and then you just slide the tensioner off it. Don't over tighten the NUT when yu put the tensioner back on! Oh it's all coming back to me now.....
 
heehee HB girl hahahaha. Advice hohohohoho, sorry hahahahahahahahhahaaaaargh, Knowledgeable harharharhahr teehee splutter splutter Oh ahm sorry hahahahhahahahahaha. Oh don't yer killing me.
 
edbell2005 said:
ur pretty knowledgable for a wurmen, girl.
I may come back to you for help!
Click to expand...

Am getting there..! Slowly. When I first got my landy, I knew fook all about it. Now I know it DOES have a battery and its is under the PASSENGER seat :rolleyes: , how to change the clutch master cylinder, how to do brake pipes and bleed em, how to do hub seals, driving members, drop arm ball joints, steering dampers, botch exhausts, botch belt tensioners wi 'no-nails'.. the list is endless. But i'll tell yu one thing, I cud'nt of done it without the help of peeps on here!;)
 
jus gave the aux belt a squirt of wd40, to try and identify where its squeaking. Everywhere that I gave it a squirt the chirpin stopped for a second or three and then gets worse!! this happened to anyone else, any ideas wat part is most likely to be causin the noise?i would hav thought if it was a tensioner, it would make a difference where i squirted the wd40, whereas instead it didnt.

any help out there?
 
HybridGirl said:
Am getting there..! Slowly. When I first got my landy, I knew fook all about it. Now I know it DOES have a battery and its is under the PASSENGER seat :rolleyes: , how to change the clutch master cylinder, how to do brake pipes and bleed em, how to do hub seals, driving members, drop arm ball joints, steering dampers, botch exhausts, botch belt tensioners wi 'no-nails'.. the list is endless. But i'll tell yu one thing, I cud'nt of done it without the help of peeps on here!;)
Click to expand...
yer should ave sed " how to hub seals when i dint have to as it wur only the blocked brevers that was causing the leak" then yer could have sed "how to unblock blocked brevvers"
 
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