Ipcress
Member
Fitted mechanical oil pressure gauge:
Use the grommet behind the brake servo to feed pipe to cabin.
Used remote t.piece (no room on side of block/timing cover).
Extended oil pressure switch wire to fit.
Removed drivers airvent, hot pokered hole up towards dashboard through plastic behind vent while gently hand drilling down from top to then feed oil pipe up thru.
Results:
Cold start on idle 950rpm .. psi 46psi
After 20 minutes running, revving, hot and back to idling now at 650rpm the pressure sits at 24psi.
Up to 1000rpm .. 42psi
Up to 2000rpm .. 45psi
Pleased.
An aside ...
Radiator leak:
Noticed a slight water leak from radiator front left inside from cabside. Its a newish rad; recore or liquid metal/Wynns to seal it before drain and refill with coolant?
Revision 21/4/2016:
Cold start on idle 950ish/rpm .. psi 44 to 46psi (April 2016...so not so cold)
When hot and on a drive :
1000rpm .. 38 psi
1750rpm .. 42 psi
2000rpm+.. 44 psi
Hot Idle 650ish/rpm .. 18 to 20 psi
Oil mix : 9/10ths 10/40W Castrol Magnatec SS + 1/3 litre of 20/50W Fine Mineral. On this mix my (recently rebuilt but dont know when) 3.9i V8 sounds sublime, on tickover she seems very content, being quiet, smooth, no rattles, knocks or ticks except when shifting over to LPG when the slightly noisy injectors kick in, but hey.. you can\t have everything, on cruising at 55mph.. well we"re a marriage made in heaven.
Added K Seal today, slight radiator leak now gone; may be sacrilige but all things considered it was the right option and may well drain and refill coolant shortly. Put part in thru input pipe to radiator and the remainder into the other side of said rad.
Just the most fantastic Landy as each little deficiency is attended to, okay its a standard 3.9i, pretty sluggish and will never be a racer (got rid of my TVR Serp semi race and although nice, I dont miss it), but it gets there wherever .. being a semi off roader, while putting the biggest grin on my fizzog ALL the time.
... Just sayin
Use the grommet behind the brake servo to feed pipe to cabin.
Used remote t.piece (no room on side of block/timing cover).
Extended oil pressure switch wire to fit.
Removed drivers airvent, hot pokered hole up towards dashboard through plastic behind vent while gently hand drilling down from top to then feed oil pipe up thru.
Results:
Cold start on idle 950rpm .. psi 46psi
After 20 minutes running, revving, hot and back to idling now at 650rpm the pressure sits at 24psi.
Up to 1000rpm .. 42psi
Up to 2000rpm .. 45psi
Pleased.
An aside ...
Radiator leak:
Noticed a slight water leak from radiator front left inside from cabside. Its a newish rad; recore or liquid metal/Wynns to seal it before drain and refill with coolant?
Revision 21/4/2016:
Cold start on idle 950ish/rpm .. psi 44 to 46psi (April 2016...so not so cold)
When hot and on a drive :
1000rpm .. 38 psi
1750rpm .. 42 psi
2000rpm+.. 44 psi
Hot Idle 650ish/rpm .. 18 to 20 psi
Oil mix : 9/10ths 10/40W Castrol Magnatec SS + 1/3 litre of 20/50W Fine Mineral. On this mix my (recently rebuilt but dont know when) 3.9i V8 sounds sublime, on tickover she seems very content, being quiet, smooth, no rattles, knocks or ticks except when shifting over to LPG when the slightly noisy injectors kick in, but hey.. you can\t have everything, on cruising at 55mph.. well we"re a marriage made in heaven.
Added K Seal today, slight radiator leak now gone; may be sacrilige but all things considered it was the right option and may well drain and refill coolant shortly. Put part in thru input pipe to radiator and the remainder into the other side of said rad.
Just the most fantastic Landy as each little deficiency is attended to, okay its a standard 3.9i, pretty sluggish and will never be a racer (got rid of my TVR Serp semi race and although nice, I dont miss it), but it gets there wherever .. being a semi off roader, while putting the biggest grin on my fizzog ALL the time.
... Just sayin
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