RRC4.2V8

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Argh! Can anyone help me ?

OK, this is the story:

The 1992 Range Rover Classic 4.2 V8 was in my garage for a few months up until a few days ago, when I hooked up my battery booster, turned the key, and she fired up after 2 seconds of cranking! And that was with very little (needle was right on the empty mark) three month old fuel!

It continued to start up fine until this morning. . .

I got in it today to go out, turned the ignition on, let the EFi prime, then cranked the motor over.

It cranked for about 12 seconds, then finally fired up, and idled like normal.

I drove the car for about 1 mile, parked up, turned the engine off, left it off for about 20 minutes while I did what I had to do, got in, turned the key, and it started right up.

OK, I thought, this morning was just one of those things that happens once then never happens again (those things do happen with older cars).

I drove it to Tesco, which was 17 miles away, bought my shopping, loaded the boot up, but when I went to start it this time it took around 7 seconds go start. . .

Hmm!

I drove home, went inside, and forgot about it. But when I had to go out again about 2 hours afterwords, it would just crank, and crank, and crank!

I kept on cranking it for 15 seconds, giving it a 30 second break, cranking for 15 seconds, 30 second break, crank, break, crank, break, until the battery completely died, but it would not start!

When I was out I brimmed it with ESSO Premium Unleaded, so it was hardly low on fuel.

The spark plugs are clean, and were replaced 2,000 miles ago, the engine is getting fuel as I can hear the pump prime it when the ignition is turned on, the engine has clean oil, and there are no leaks!

What the hell is wrong with my V8!? :(


 
Last edited:
When I gave the engine a full service 2,000 miles ago I replaced the Distributor Cap but not the HT Leads... Ah! They looked new but I guess they could be worn.

Doh!
 
ignition issue?

are you getting fuel to the cylinder - take out the plugs and see if they are damp?

and don't use stupid fonts either

Argh! Can anyone help me ?

OK, this is the story:

The 1992 Range Rover Classic 4.2 V8 was in my garage for a few months up until a few days ago, when I hooked up my battery booster, turned the key, and she fired up after 2 seconds of cranking! And that was with very little (needle was right on the empty mark) three month old fuel!

It continued to start up fine until this morning. . .

I got in it today to go out, turned the ignition on, let the EFi prime, then cranked the motor over.

It cranked for about 12 seconds, then finally fired up, and idled like normal.

I drove the car for about 1 mile, parked up, turned the engine off, left it off for about 20 minutes while I did what I had to do, got in, turned the key, and it started right up.

OK, I thought, this morning was just one of those things that happens once then never happens again (those things do happen with older cars).

I drove it to Tesco, which was 17 miles away, bought my shopping, loaded the boot up, but when I went to start it this time it took around 7 seconds go start. . .

Hmm!

I drove home, went inside, and forgot about it. But when I had to go out again about 2 hours afterwords, it would just crank, and crank, and crank!

I kept on cranking it for 15 seconds, giving it a 30 second break, cranking for 15 seconds, 30 second break, crank, break, crank, break, until the battery completely died, but it would not start!

When I was out I brimmed it with ESSO Premium Unleaded, so it was hardly low on fuel.

The spark plugs are clean, and were replaced 2,000 miles ago, the engine is getting fuel as I can hear the pump prime it when the ignition is turned on, the engine has clean oil, and there are no leaks!

What the hell is wrong with my V8!? :(
 
i would start with the basics cap leads and rotor arm gen dealer ones not the lucas tat on fleebay!
two get the ecu tested to see what the coolant temp sensor is showing when cold and if the throttle pot and air flow meter are also giving the correct readings.

if you feel brake check the fuel rail for rust as it could have blocked the injectors very coman with older rrc left
 
I'm with vougese on this one. Rotor arm, cap and leads first!! I can't reinforce enough how important it is to fit genuine Lucas ignition parts.
 
have you even got a spark?

excessive cranking killed the amp on my dizzy on my 3.9 a couple of years ago.
 

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