T

The Toll

Member
I've just started my mission as the custodian of a 1977 Series III petrol 88".

First things first, I want to make sure I've the right oils in the gear, transfer, diffs, steering box and swivel hubs.

There seems to be a range of ideas on the right oil - it appears that Hypoid Gear Oil SAE 90 EP GL4 is what's needed for all of these.

Any recommendations would be appreciated on what brand to get & where from.

Also, the current levels and oil condition are pretty good (full service 500 miles / 18 months ago) although some top-up is needed. Is it absolutely necessary to drain-down the old oil or can it just be topped-up? (does a potential mix of oils present a worry?).

Thanks.
 
On some forums asking about oil can produce some heated responses - so be prepared (!)

On the whole I say you need to find something that you are happy with and then just stick with it.

Oil technology has moved on quite a bit since the series 3 Land Rover was introduced - most modern stuff probably isn't going to be suitable (though I'm sure there will be lots of people who will say otherwise)

My personal choice has been to use the Kroon oil classic oil products. In Holland these are slightly cheaper than the Castrol classic oil products but I get the feeling in the UK that's the other way round. These are expensive products but I think they are worth the money.

I buy all of my oil products in bulk from various suppliers - I shop around each time on the internet. In my expereince it is often cheaper to have bulk quantities of oil shipped from an internet seller than it is trying to buy it locally.

####

Mixing oils can cause trouble. If you don't know what was used last time it is always best to drain completely and start anew with a single product. After that topping up is fine - though if you are spending a lot of time topping up oil levels it is probably best to work out where all that oil is going...
 
The gearbox needs gl4 because there are some bronze or phosphurebronze parts, apparently gl5 can attack these parts. The diffs, steering box and swivels can use the gl5 stuff. I'm not sure about the transfer box but I put gl4 in mine. I would drain out the old oil and fill with new.

Col
 
Stretch said:
On some forums asking about oil can produce some heated responses - so be prepared (!)

On the whole I say you need to find something that you are happy with and then just stick with it.

Oil technology has moved on quite a bit since the series 3 Land Rover was introduced - most modern stuff probably isn't going to be suitable (though I'm sure there will be lots of people who will say otherwise)

My personal choice has been to use the Kroon oil classic oil products. In Holland these are slightly cheaper than the Castrol classic oil products but I get the feeling in the UK that's the other way round. These are expensive products but I think they are worth the money.

I buy all of my oil products in bulk from various suppliers - I shop around each time on the internet. In my expereince it is often cheaper to have bulk quantities of oil shipped from an internet seller than it is trying to buy it locally.

####

Mixing oils can cause trouble. If you don't know what was used last time it is always best to drain completely and start anew with a single product. After that topping up is fine - though if you are spending a lot of time topping up oil levels it is probably best to work out where all that oil is going...
Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply, it's really appreciated
 
rob1miles said:
Buy the oil filler gadget for the EP90, saves a lot of mess.
Like this, shop around as you may get cheaper locally
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-4385-Mini-Pump-Gear-Oil-Filler-1-Litre-NEW-MEP0001/174230860208?_trkparms=ispr=1&hash=item2890f7f1b0:g:krQAAOSwoJNa7FsI&amdata=enc:AQAFAAACYBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%2Fn%2BzU5L90Z278x5ickkSG%2BOFgrj2Yvbvmrj2TAdMwmoJM1FieCIZFqS159x%2B6W0e3OmfPATagaHO5GztfpfWXDHD8V2BUoS0SiAL4vpbgvsE41eiPmKrBrOLxU3dcSvWyIU5%2B8YCxbVydjFnFeH6f%2FGHeF6dYEMr4x9sO2l1JGVvzC4w0uD8mUefVRmC4BaVsGpQzmVcWd451cI%2FJnR%2Bla0kbphVQuJmDnX%2Fis4GuAsiLD4BLiCliziCGu3s1XDzxQd6UNEOMxdIoMCf%2Bu4dbFq5caDLSUvm73qyvbgpWyWDmh8gFzzLlADQbGrSJK74pAPPHdWj7iJnyPAvuqd3zRr%2BnJ70poFk0cIHtu9mTiof0rV50t33mXNecC4b89gwKf2hPayuougl3uSe7UE8ongRnlFaOukPTT611XwCBcghM%2FemqvjZR0F1ky8napMY0tIiN1MfA1i75xQViDG8Yg4PEXYW2AF3IXe66LkHTtt09rieIs8D2NB9z%2FHv3fGGZyWhxBOoBlHZUnk4DrRODPWI8L2WBa3PxC7Hwa0HKHG1XHDs%2BdOnnOgF77DxPKWnibif3gNMKcWV1FXNN03FD2bs6uMmIVArMRdSQnf3rABmxUE6QptrrUgW4VbJFlkNoDR6s%2FtmBUWWC4mOEQn05fcmLVZgEyfCFEzVY6T42MdQvbGDv0EXDeIq%2FMDDZUFxqT4C3mXjMCYxszWKtvXN5TXtR61PLkEa7NaUAmHpOs3gihqJ5UgZaUbtj9mZxj2W%2F%2BBIBLSMBe5cKloH4OD|cksum:1742308602086c91d0fe48774d5d9ddb86bcb6adcc24|ampid:pL_CLK|clp:2334524
Click to expand...

Thanks, appreciated.
 
I have found in the past that warming EP90 oil up before filling helps. It will be thinner when warm and much easier to pour or pump.

I once stood a container of EP90 in front of an electric radiator for an hour before I used it to see if it would make a difference, which it definitely did.

If the oil is only 500 miles and 18 months old, to me it doesn't seem worth draining it out completely.
 
Last edited:
Bobsticle said:
I go off price. Free is best but the cheapest junk you can find is a good compromise. :D
Click to expand...
upload_2020-11-16_22-36-3.jpeg
;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Y
Another series III brake fail wiring harness question.
Replies
7
Views
579
steve2286w
steve2286w
T
New to the world of old landys and would be very grateful for some advice
Replies
8
Views
811
Tommyk28
T
JIMBOB LR
Less Is More. The LR Series lives on.
2 3
Replies
44
Views
4K
JIMBOB LR
JIMBOB LR
C
New landy owner (series iii)
Replies
9
Views
1K
Chonker
C
MollyNomad
Freelander 1 Hahaha… Not very funny
Replies
3
Views
987
GrumpyGel
GrumpyGel