I am currently rebuilding a 2a which has a Rover V8 and LT95 gearbox (see other posts) After having a very long chat with a chap at Richard chassis I have decided to dump the ex Rangie gearbox and go for a series gearbox. This will overcome some of the issues relating to the chassis mods, and also allow me to have two-wheel drive, which will preserve the front axle. Now I have a list of new questions.

Obviously I will have to get an adapter plate between the V8 and gearbox. Does anyone know of a supplier of these?

Will have to use a series clutch I guess so will have to have the flywheel re drilled to take it. Again any suggestions where this can be done?

On a similar vein would the input shaft on the series gearbox reach the clutch once an adapter plate is used?

Is the Series 3 gearbox the same cosmetically as the 2a gearbox (Series 3 is a syncro I believe) It would be good if the series 3 gearbox uses the same mounts as the 2a gearbox.


Any help or suggestions would be warmly received

ive got a 1970 2a running its original half syncro box with range rover diffs fitted the 2and 3 use the same mounts or can be easily swopped if they dont i have no idea about the adaptor plate ive got one but i didnt fit it so no idea how it fits sorry the input shaft must go in deep as i have no clutch problems it all feels like a normal petrol clutch... sorry i cant answer all ya questions .

Thanks bennybenny. Thats a start. I hope to get decent road speeds by fitting an overdrive. If I can I want to keep the historic status and avoid road tax.

Deereornothing said:

Thanks bennybenny. Thats a start. I hope to get decent road speeds by fitting an overdrive. If I can I want to keep the historic status and avoid road tax.

Click to expand...

sounds good to me but myn is quick and actually returns ok fuel econ for the size of the lump with the range diffs ....i have hurd that the original diffs are poor with a v8 break easy and the speed is reduced and the fuel econ isnt too good .....

From what I understand (through reading posts on here and picking the brains of those who say they know!) the diffs are the most likely thing in the drivetrain (and halfshafts) to break with a big lump up front. So for added economy & wear and tear, uprating the diffs may be a good idea. Obviously an overdrive will make the biggest difference to overall fuel economy, but budgeting in repairs to broken diffs and axle parts over the course of your time with the vehicle may well mean any saving to fuel economy you make is wasted anyway..

Why I decided to stick with the 2.25ltr petrol on my rebuild. Obviously I love the idea of getting 70+mph and over 20mpg, but to do it properly takes a bit of money and time, not to mention careful driving . But then, after you've done it, you'll be the one overtaking me when i'm struggling to pull 50mph..

Not sure about the clutch..I would imagine a standard clutch for the box would suffice..maybe you'd need a spacer welded on, don't know.

Matt

This is the speed you can expect

[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVnLr-0Ynxk"]YouTube - 1966 landrover swb V8[/nomedia]

as for the adaptor plate try these

Engine Conversion Kits For Land Rovers, Range Rovers & Toyota MK Models - Home

The clutch isn't a problem because when you get the adaptor plate you also get the modified spigot bush that bolts to the flywheel,also the flywheel will have to be machined to take the series clutch(redrilled) any engineering company should be able to do this
The mounts on a S2 are the same as a S3 but the S2 has the clutch slave clyinder on the drivers side where as the S3 is on the passenger side
Hope this helps
jon