J

johng

New Member
Hi all, I am new here.
I have been trying to get a series 3 deisel 1978 landrover runnng after it suffered a broken timing belt with the previous owner..

I am short of time as it needs to be moved, and needs to run first :(

It has a 2.5 Engine, but with a belt not chain, (frieghtrover or taxi?) has a front mounted timing belt driven pump.

I replaced the headgasket after checking for piston damage, the only thing that suffered were 3 pushrods, which i renewed. The build seemed to go pretty well.

I cant get it to start at all tho :(

here is what I have checked so far.

Fuel reaching Filter, yes
Fuel reaching Inj pump, yes
Fuel at injectors , yes but not exactly a dangerous spray .?

Glow plugs, 3 working 1 suspect

Timing belt, rechecked marks and seems fine (Dot on Crank at top, Dot on Cam alingned with marker, and dot (not F symbol) on Injection pump aligned with marker.

I have turned and turned it over.

The only other thing i thought I noticed was that the fuel smelled slightly off, more like Heating oil (its been sat for 2 years) - people have assured me this engine will run on anything..

I am starting to think the injection pump now. Has anyone got one i could buy, or try?
I cant check compression, although for what its worth, with injectors out is 'sounds' good..

many thanks for any help
John
 
As not many comment on diesels Ill chip in, Im no expert and this may be a bit obvious but check that the engine kill isnt engaged (down position). When I bought my 2a diesel the kill cable had slipped and stayed engaged even when you pushed the knob in. Poor guy selling stripped everything down assuming the worst but it was a simple cable problem.
 
Andrew Many thanks, I hadnt really thought of this.. the annoying thing is I am getting some fuel at injectors.. just not a ??? PSI spray i thought diesels should give.. however, a bad kill solenoid etc could let some fuel thru? Can i ask where / what the kill knob looks like? I have yet to even sit in this vehicle!
anyway,
I will probably try to bypass the kill at the pump, as a test, assuming its an electric solenoid.

thanks again
John
 
Its part if the injector pump, I think its called the distributor pump. Its not a solanoid, its just a valve called the stop lever, (see SII_ROM diagram 19-1 part 6). In the cab it looks like an old choke that you pull. There is a cable between the two which looks like the throttle cable.
 
:D

turns out, although the dimple on the crank and cam sprockets line up, the dimple on the injection pump sprocket doesnt , the f mark next to it does.. then it all works ;)
 
;)
but/..

went back to it last night, started her up again, and thought it didnt quite look right... The engine was rocking quite badly, the exhaust was pulsing (a bit like a marine engine on idle) I have never heard this landrover run, but I am sure it shouldnt be like this.. please dont tell me the timing was right the first time :( and now i have changed it and coincidentally the engine has started to run anyway :(

someone must know the correct alignment markings..?
 
hmmm,, i have to agree really.. if it ran at all it would smoke and run badly on all cylinders...

On my motorbike, I can grap each of the four exhaust downpipes and establish which, if any, cylinders arent firing.. I guess I could try this with the cast manifold.. but being one piece, at will probably all just get warm at the same time...

what else would cause an engine to 'Rock' on every revolution.?... it would soon strain the cooling pipes to radiator I would think, and the downpipe, wiring and engine mounts.... no one elses Landy does this on idle do they?
John - Sussex
 
slacken each injector pipe in turn if the cylinder ain't working you won't hear any difference in engine note. so you can deduce which bastard is misfiring
 
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