nrgserv
Well-Known Member
sounds like you have incorrect wiring. from memory, you should have a big brown wire to each side of the ballast coil, one coming from the ignition, the other goping to no.4 heater plug. also connected to each end should be two smaller wires which go to the cold start lamp. this glows according to volt drop across ballast. (you dont actually need this lamp if you can count to 15 so could be disconnected.) sounds to me like its been messed with and the cold start lamp cabling is running the heaters!
hi nrgserv
as you say there is one big brown wire from the ignition ,then to the glow plugs and the two wire back to the cold start lamp .
but the glow plugs are not able to start the engine as the ballast coil is glowing to hot to stay on ,e.g counting up to 20 where the glow plugs are not glowing hot
thanks mige63
as you say there is one big brown wire from the ignition ,then to the glow plugs and the two wire back to the cold start lamp .
but the glow plugs are not able to start the engine as the ballast coil is glowing to hot to stay on ,e.g counting up to 20 where the glow plugs are not glowing hot
thanks mige63
nrgserv
Well-Known Member
do you have series plugs or parallell plugs? series plugs as fitted on series engines require a ballast, parallell as found on 90 / 110 engines dont need the ballast. series look like a bent bit of wire on the end of the plug and have a removeable insulator where the cabling terminates, parallell types dont have a removable insulator. first guess is you have parallell types from a newer engine, with the ballast from the older engine.
pictures would help, and ive read threads on this subject elsewhere.
nrg
pictures would help, and ive read threads on this subject elsewhere.
nrg
Yup ... another expert has fitted PARALLEL 12 volt glow plugs to an old Lady that needs SERIES low volts glowplugs. This has two effects (1) the glow plugs barely get warm and (2) the resistor on the dash goes red bloody hot in seconds.
The resistor is there only to make the dash bulb glow when the SERIES connected glow plugs have heated up allegedly enough. In SERIES connection, if ANY ONE plug breaks, NONE of them will heat up.
It's amazing these cars with wrong glow plugs don't go on fire more often when the resistor goes incandescent.
Learn the difference betwen SERIES and PARALLEL connection.
What were you doing in physics lessons at school?
Was she very beautiful?
CharlesY
The resistor is there only to make the dash bulb glow when the SERIES connected glow plugs have heated up allegedly enough. In SERIES connection, if ANY ONE plug breaks, NONE of them will heat up.
It's amazing these cars with wrong glow plugs don't go on fire more often when the resistor goes incandescent.
Learn the difference betwen SERIES and PARALLEL connection.
What were you doing in physics lessons at school?
Was she very beautiful?
CharlesY
nrgserv
Well-Known Member
ok....
so what i can see looks good, you have the older series plugs that *look* correctly wired.
questions i now have are-
how do you know your plugs arent heating up?
do all the plugs look the same as the ones in the pics?
is there a wire on the last plug to the block?
if you disconnect the last wire to the block does the ballast still glow?
when was the last time you changed them / how old are they?
so what i can see looks good, you have the older series plugs that *look* correctly wired.
questions i now have are-
how do you know your plugs arent heating up?
do all the plugs look the same as the ones in the pics?
is there a wire on the last plug to the block?
if you disconnect the last wire to the block does the ballast still glow?
when was the last time you changed them / how old are they?
