andy_cuk

New Member
Hi all,

I brought a Land Rover Series 3 a couple of months back and have been in the process of repairing and replacing various parts to get her ready for a MOT.
All is looking peachy so far and we're nearly there.... Apart from one main thing... the brakes!

Overview -

Old shoes down to metal, brought a brake overhaul kit (shoes, pistons, springs etc) and changed everything out, all back together and looking good.
Bleeding carried out (twice), system completely flushed with new DOT4.
All drums adjusted correctly.

We're on to a winner, but :confused:

Problem -

I now have to fully depress the brake pedal, then release then press it again to stop.
On the second press the pedal goes down half way then is really firm and the landy stops strongly and in a straight line
there are no adjusters that I can see in the drums, so why do I need to press the pedal twice to get the brakes to work?

I pray I am missing something obvious here...? :(

Many thanks in advance

Andy_cuk
 
if yer have to pump yer brakes yer gort air in them. you should have adjusters on yer drums. one fer each shoe. 1/2" AF hexy head on the back of the back plate which turns a snail cam that should be against the shoe.
 
Bleeding them again is on the agenda again then, started to lose faith as I have already done it twice


Saturday morning it is...... and this time going to flush through the whole system again making sure no air can get in the system!

Thanks guys, an update will be coming :cool:
 
if yer cant get the air out by normal bleeding either invest in a pressure bleeder or .. get the back up as high as yer can. jam a length of wood between the seat and pedal and leave it over night then bled the back..
next drop the back and repeat with the front.. if you bleed the back early morning then just leave the front til late after noon.
 
try and get a pressurised brake bleeder this will make life easier.
 
if yer cant get the air out by normal bleeding either invest in a pressure bleeder or .. get the back up as high as yer can. jam a length of wood between the seat and pedal and leave it over night then bled the back..
next drop the back and repeat with the front.. if you bleed the back early morning then just leave the front til late after noon.

Great idea, never thought of that!

I'll get her back up first on some ramps Friday night, then bled in the monring, then front can go up.

If all fails I will have to down the expensive route of buying a pressurised brake bleeder.... :eek:
 
Hi all,

I brought a Land Rover Series 3 a couple of months back and have been in the process of repairing and replacing various parts to get her ready for a MOT.
All is looking peachy so far and we're nearly there.... Apart from one main thing... the brakes!

Overview -
Old shoes down to metal, brought a brake overhaul kit (shoes, pistons, springs etc) and changed everything out, all back together and looking good.
Bleeding carried out (twice), system completely flushed with new DOT4.
All drums adjusted correctly.

We're on to a winner, but :confused:

Problem -

I now have to fully depress the brake pedal, then release then press it again to stop.
On the second press the pedal goes down half way then is really firm and the landy stops strongly and in a straight line
there are no adjusters that I can see in the drums, so why do I need to press the pedal twice to get the brakes to work?

I pray I am missing something obvious here...? :(

Many thanks in advance

Andy_cuk

You say "all drums adjusted correctly" then say " there are no adjusters that I can see in the drums" so how have you adjusted the brakes? It sound like an adjustment problem to me, in which case no amount on bleeding will cure it.

As Slob said, a 1/2 AF nut on the back of each backplate.
just a thought, are the springs in the right place. the top one (nearest the cylinder, goes from the shoe with the adjuster to an anchor point on the backplate, it should not be connecting the shoes.
All this is assuming single cylinder brakes, If you have a late oner (around 80 on) all a LWB you will have 2 cylinders at the front. Much the same applies, but obviously 2 adjusters and ignore the comment on springs.
 

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