D

David Lewis

New Member
Hi All,

I have wound up entering the Series landrover field after having my pride and joy Defender stolen.

I have recently purchased a 1972 Series 3 109 (Ex military) which I'm just starting to bring back to life. The first thing I want to tackle is the chassis as both front and rear spring hangers are pretty much dust. I have found a replacement rear quarter chassis with spring hangers which should be a straight swap but the front hangers on mine look totally different to those found on any front chassis replacement I can find.

Can anyone help me out or at least point me in the right direction? I thought it was just the 1 Ton that was fitted with the extended hangers?????

Thanks in advance and I'm sure this wont be the last time I'm posting on here.
 
Hi mate, I have an ex military 109 too. Mine also has/had long hangers. As far as I know, most if not all army LRs had them. I took mine off and went back to standard, didn't want or need the high ones. The front of rear spring outrigger is the same except for the hanger bracket itself. If you are replacing the said outrigger as I did, you will need to cut away the old rigger, leaving the hanger in place and weld it up in situ. I have pictures but as yet haven't had to post any here on Landyzone.
 
Hi Extreedoc,

Thanks for the reply!

Yeah from what I can see I think you're right when it comes to the military spec. I have purchased a new rear quarter chassis to replace the current one as the hangers are in a really bad way. I have also ordered the front chassis including the steering cross member and I thought I was going to have to fabricate the extension myself so this is good news!

On the front hangers is it just a case of fitting the new front dumb iron and steering cross member and then replacing the extended shackles with the standard ones to bring everything into line?

Some pictures of the rear fronts would be great as I can't picture what you mean? Also, I'm guessing I'd need to replace the extended shackles with the standard shorter versions?

once again thank you for the reply and I look forward to hearing from you.

Kind regards

David Lewis
 
Last edited:
Extreedoc said:
Hi mate, I have an ex military 109 too. Mine also has/had long hangers. As far as I know, most if not all army LRs had them. I took mine off and went back to standard, didn't want or need the high ones. The front of rear spring outrigger is the same except for the hanger bracket itself. If you are replacing the said outrigger as I did, you will need to cut away the old rigger, leaving the hanger in place and weld it up in situ. I have pictures but as yet haven't had to post any here on Landyzone.
Click to expand...

Hi Mate,

I'm not sure if I replied or did another post so sorry if I have bombarded you - see below just incase

Hi Extreedoc,

Thanks for the reply!

Yeah from what I can see I think you're right when it comes to the military spec. I have purchased a new rear quarter chassis to replace the current one as the hangers are in a really bad way. I have also ordered the front chassis including the steering cross member and I thought I was going to have to fabricate the extension myself so this is good news!

On the front hangers is it just a case of fitting the new front dumb iron and steering cross member and then replacing the extended shackles with the standard ones to bring everything into line?

Some pictures of the rear fronts would be great as I can't picture what you mean? Also, I'm guessing I'd need to replace the extended shackles with the standard shorter versions?

once again thank you for the reply and I look forward to hearing from you.

Kind regards

David Lewis
 
Mine is a 1970 Ex-mil 109. It has the military chassis with the mil set up of 2" lift. Make sure you get the mil rear end with the straight cross member not the angled one like std. The rear spring hangers are longer so you buy the std outrigger and (as said above) cut the short hanger off and sit the outrigger over the existing hanger. Front has much larger plates that drop the dumbirons down another 2" to give the lift, they are also a lot more substancial. Mine fell apart so I got 3" box and plates and had it all welded up to look like orginal. There's a lot of small (and not so small) differences between the mil spec and the civvy, Its not safe to assume a std part will fit. Shocks are longer and so are the brake lines and getting part numbers can be a pain. Exhaust is very different, I couldn't find one anywhere, then got numbers from Rovers North in the US, typed them in and found Paddocks had them for a few quid, but not listed as mil exhaust so they didn't come up on a search.
 
NS front of rear spring hanger cut off.resized.JPG

NS front of r spg hngr new fitted.resized.JPG


How about these? Showing the outrigger cut off leaving the hanger bracket still present and the job after welding.
I used a Britpart outrigger.

As to the hi-lift hangers, it's up you whether you keep them or go to standard ones, depends on what you want. I got rid of mine because the LR wouldn't go through the garage doors on hi-lifters and I wasn't going to do any off-road driving.
If you do keep them remember to use the lower hole in the hanger bracket and if you go standard, use the upper hole. If you don't use the right hole it tilts the diff and causes wear of your propshaft UJs.
 
Extreedoc said:
View attachment 133585
View attachment 133586

How about these? Showing the outrigger cut off leaving the hanger bracket still present and the job after welding.
I used a Britpart outrigger.

As to the hi-lift hangers, it's up you whether you keep them or go to standard ones, depends on what you want. I got rid of mine because the LR wouldn't go through the garage doors on hi-lifters and I wasn't going to do any off-road driving.
If you do keep them remember to use the lower hole in the hanger bracket and if you go standard, use the upper hole. If you don't use the right hole it tilts the diff and causes wear of your propshaft UJs.
Click to expand...

Hi Extreedoc,

Thanks for the images.

Was your outrigger kaput? The only reason I ask is the outrigger on mine is fine as these have been changed previously and by changing this it's not going to alter the height at all?

Speak soon
 
David Lewis said:
Hi Extreedoc,

Thanks for the images.

Was your outrigger kaput? The only reason I ask is the outrigger on mine is fine as these have been changed previously and by changing this it's not going to alter the height at all?

Speak soon
Click to expand...
Yes, it was completely bergered, had been badly repaired in the past. Ride height won't change if you don't mess with the hanger bracket. If yours is sound, leave it be.
John
 
MOD spring hanger, rear.resized.JPG

Just so that we know we are talking about the same thing: This is a military spring hanger, with three bolts through it. Is this what you are talking about? Standard one is similar but shorter and two bolts.
I don't understand what you mean when you say: "rear hangers are pretty much dust". These are rear hangers and they don't suffer from rust as a rule, so...? Pictures might help.
 
That picture of the outrigger and the spring hanger is really handy, ~I'll be taking that to our local welders at some stage and saying - "this is how I want it done"
 
rob1miles said:
That picture of the outrigger and the spring hanger is really handy, ~I'll be taking that to our local welders at some stage and saying - "this is how I want it done"
Click to expand...
Thanks Rob. The important thing is to cut away all the rusty metal and insist on no steel sandwiches. A small overlap is fine but a damn great overlap is not. Then remember to Waxoyl inside the cavities.
 
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