Landy-Pandy

Landy-Pandy

Member
Hi all,
Just a quick one (hopefully). I've recently bought a second hand prop shaft (including VCU) for my X reg Freelander.
The prop had already been removed from the Hippo when i bought it (hence the second hand replacement) and thought the obvious reason would be IRD failure...
I wanted to fit the new (old) shaft just to see if it DOES work.
Just fitted it, all seems well! It drives quietly, no noises, no bangs, no squeels, no whines... is it safe to assume that the IRD is ok? OR is there something big that i'm missing.
Any ideas?
Thanks guys!
 
You may be lucky and reason for removal was naff vcu only. But do the one wheel up test to check your vcu is intact before putting your credit card away!! Search on here for the test.
 
Thanks for the quick reply.
I was planning on doing the torque test at some point and also changing the oil in the IRD and checking the inside of the plug.
I'm glad you think the IRD may be ok... thought it'd be to good to be true!
 
Vcu cost with bearings fitted by a garage can be high compared to taking prop off! Say £300 to £500 for vcu and bearings then 2 hrs to fit? Well worth checking ird and diff oil for contamination and swarf if owut shows all is well.
 
Landy-Pandy said:
Thanks for the quick reply.
I was planning on doing the torque test at some point and also changing the oil in the IRD and checking the inside of the plug.
I'm glad you think the IRD may be ok... thought it'd be to good to be true!
Click to expand...
I'd say testing your VCU is an urgent priority. If you're very lucky it won't be too bad but as you don't know its history it could be seized solid. If it is your drive train will go bang in short order, especially if it was weakened previously.
Prop shafts can also be removed for stupid reasons like dodgy bearings so I don't assume the worst. I bought one a couple of years ago and the dealer took off the prop shaft because the support bearings were shot.
 
I was assured by the seller that the VCU hadn't siezed... although, having taken that with a pinch of salt, i'll be doing the test as soon as possible.
Although, if the IRD has been weakened previously, would the damage become worse by running a working VCU? Or would it be ok?
Thanks for all the input so far.
 
They don't seize - they go very tight. IRD is easier to test without prop on ! Rotate output and look for free play, also check oil for silvering. Don't forget to check that you can undo the IRD filler BEFORE you drain the oil, they can be tricky to unscrew. If oil and play looks o.k - only time will tell without a strip down. Also - if VCU test o.k and all is quiet then you've probably got a winner !
 
Ok so what sort of play should i be looking for in the output shaft? As i fitted the front prop i noticed that i could rotate it slighty... is this the play i should be worried about?
 
100% agree with Andy.
Make sure you use a high quality hex socket to loosen the IRD filler bolt, they seem to have been made of cheese.
Every seller that ever sold a prop said it was working perfectly. The reality is VERY few would even know how it was meant to work.
If your VCU is good you would be unlucky to trash the IRD unless it was ready to fail anyway.
So long as you keep your tyres good, correct pressures and least worn on the front.
 
Alibro said:
100% agree with Andy.
Make sure you use a high quality hex socket to loosen the IRD filler bolt, they seem to have been made of cheese.
Every seller that ever sold a prop said it was working perfectly. The reality is VERY few would even know how it was meant to work.
If your VCU is good you would be unlucky to trash the IRD unless it was ready to fail anyway.
So long as you keep your tyres good, correct pressures and least worn on the front.
Click to expand...
I think you mean least worn tyres on the REAR.
 
Alibro said:
I could be wrong, very often am and on this occasion am verry wrong. :oops:

Oooops.
Click to expand...
No worries we wouldn't be human bla bla bla, you only have to look at my post a week or so ago about manifold to turbo bolts and what type of socket fits them, felt a right chump ! we're all on here to help each other if possible. The bits and pieces of info I've picked up on here have been invaluable to me since I've owned mine so thanks to all.
 
Andy Warren said:
No worries we wouldn't be human bla bla bla, you only have to look at my post a week or so ago about manifold to turbo bolts and what type of socket fits them, felt a right chump ! we're all on here to help each other if possible. The bits and pieces of info I've picked up on here have been invaluable to me since I've owned mine so thanks to all.
Click to expand...
LOL, it isn't my knowledge that's cr@p (not on this anyway) but my English. I'm always saying one thing when I mean the opposite. :confused:
 
Alibro said:
LOL, it isn't my knowledge that's cr@p (not on this anyway) but my English. I'm always saying one thing when I mean the opposite. :confused:
Click to expand...
As it happens whilst we're in the vicinity of props, IRD's & VCU'S at the weekend mine started making a clonking noise at slow speed up to about 40 mph just feathering the throttle & whilst slowing down from the same speed (being auto not much engine braking) & only in a straight line from roughly the o/s front area.
In July last year & only as a precaution a recon. VCU with hangers (Bell Eng.) were fitted, IRD oil changed, oil was still a good colour & no filings on the drain plug. The hanger brgs. failed after 6'000 miles (it's not off roaded or power washed) ! when I prised the rubber seals out they were rusty as F%£k. I replaced the hangers but this time made sure I took the seals out of the brgs.(only a token amount in them) & packed them with grease. I checked & changed the IRD oil again & all was well ( symptoms of failed hanger brgs for me was a vibration/drone up to about 50mph also felt if you rested your hand on the handbrake lever).
Back to my noise, I removed the prop. today but the noise is the same so after talking to Bell Eng. I'm going to replace the o/s fr. driveshaft with a Bearmach one in the hope it's just that. I had no noise on full lock going forwards or backwards. Would be nice to know if anyone else has had a d/shaft that was only noisy in a straight line.
In the last 8 months it's had 4 new yokohama tyres, fr. wishbones, drop links, lower eng. mount & a full set of powerflex bushes.
 
Have you checked the drop links. It needs to be on its wheels when checking them. You can check the drive shafts at the same time by pushing them around with your hand.
 
Alibro said:
Have you checked the drop links. It needs to be on its wheels when checking them. You can check the drive shafts at the same time by pushing them around with your hand.
Click to expand...
Yeah drop links (OEM not cheapies) were new along with the lower arms & all the suspension bushes inc. anti roll bar 3000 miles ago. I'm a bit stumped as it only makes the noise in a straight line. You can get slight up & down movement where the drive shafts enter the IRD, same both sides so I'm not sure if this is 'normal'. The only other thing I might do is check the IRD oil & drain plug for the third time (just hope it's not 3rd time unlucky).
 
Andy Warren said:
Yeah drop links (OEM not cheapies) were new along with the lower arms & all the suspension bushes inc. anti roll bar 3000 miles ago. I'm a bit stumped as it only makes the noise in a straight line. You can get slight up & down movement where the drive shafts enter the IRD, same both sides so I'm not sure if this is 'normal'. The only other thing I might do is check the IRD oil & drain plug for the third time (just hope it's not 3rd time unlucky).
Click to expand...
Have you checked the engine mounts?
If all suspension components new it's not likely to be them but still worth checking, just in case you were sold cheap copies as OEM.
 
Alibro said:
Have you checked the engine mounts?
If all suspension components new it's not likely to be them but still worth checking, just in case you were sold cheap copies as OEM.
Click to expand...
Lower o/s (dog bone shape) eng. mount was new about 7000 miles ago but I will double check drop links & mounts tomorrow but as it only makes the noise on steady, just tickling the throttle so basically no load, I'm sure its drive train related. It doesn't do it pulling away from stand still where I would have thought the sudden acceleration would make it knock/clonk if the mounts were kaput. I'm taking me lucky rabbits foot to bed with me tonight & a prayer to the good lord it's not the IRD especially as it's his birthday coming up hee hee.
 
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